1/100 "AF 27" Artillery Pram (WWII)

Jefgte · **Posted:** Wed Jun 13, 2007 5:31 pm

What an impressive methodologie Ingura

An original and high quality model you built there

Congratulations
:lol_spit_1:

Jef

Bill1957 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:03 am

hi
in the days when i made silicon dropmould i used petrolim jelly with white spirits and wormed it in a jar in a bowl of hot water for releasent

bill

ingura · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2007 2:51 am

JIM BAUMANN · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2007 3:03 am

hals und beinbruch!!

translates as ...

...... Good luck!! :thumbs_up_1:

JB

ingura · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:46 am

As simple this tinbox was as an actual ship, as complicated it is to achieve progress with the model.

Silicone is fine, except I have too much airbubbles at the bottom of the hull - the decks and sides are fine since the bubbles were able to evade upwards. So physics hit me this time - not chemistry... :lol_1:

Next, as you can tell from the picture - I allowed too less silicone for the sides of the mold so it does bend inward to an unexceptable grade.

This type of shipmodel is obviously not responding to the "normal" measures I'm familiar with - I will try something else and let you know then.

I hope at least this thread shows how things should not be done and why... :Mad_6:

Dino not logged · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:21 am

I'm glad to see that you refitted your hull so fast :eyebrows:

anyway I think that your mould could be used, it just needs something that keep it in square, maybe using the transparent box that we see in your shots...

Dino

ingura · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 1:24 am

JIM BAUMANN · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 8:13 am

Ouuuuch!

I feel your pain! that is dispiriting!

Best wishes

JIM B

Torpedo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 8:44 am

A suggestion:
Put the plug upside down into plastillin and mould the plastillin to the sides. Make a frame around it and place it over the model. Then pour the silicone so that the bubbles can rise to the surface. After it has hardened, remove the plastillin and turn it. Cast the rest with silicone using the frame again. That should work! If you then cast the model you can use the frame to hold the sides.

Please take a look at my report where it is described in a smaller size.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mwphpBB2/vie ... c&start=45

ingura · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:57 pm

Torpedo · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:36 am

Hmm, even if you want a one-piece-mould that should work with a frame and plastillin on the bottom. Just leave the second part...
Like this bubbles will rise to the surface...

ingura · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:46 am

Torpedo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 28, 2007 2:04 am

Tzss, tzss, tzss. Peter you know me!

Who am I, when I can't continue my own project...

Torpedo · **Posted:** Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:03 am

Did you find a way to mould your AF meanwhile?

ingura · **Posted:** Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:15 am

Torpedo · **Posted:** Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:21 am

He lives! Thank god! So look forward to read much more here - written on fruits...

Tony & Kaiser · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:24 pm

Peter, wow. What a catastrophe. Auf Granit beißen! I thought it was just me that suffered catastrophic building disasters? I won't feel so bad next time something goes horribly wrong on the Pommern, knowing what you went through with your mold. Knowing you, however, you will figure it out and it will be perfect.

ingura · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:28 pm

ArizonaBB39 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:58 pm

Peter, I was wondering what had happened to your build! I hope to see it continue soon. :thumbs_up_1:

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1/100 "AF 27" Artillery Pram (WWII)

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