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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Starting to add the lapped strakes to the shell of my whaleboat. I'm not up to the task of cutting rabbets and building on frames in 1/32 scale, but this seems to be about as much work, if not more because I have to add strakes inside and out. I reduced the strake drawings by 50% off one of my 1/16 whaleboat kits and found that they are a near identical match, except that instead of strakes 1 - 8, mine goes 1, 2, 3, 4, 4 (modified), 5, 6, 6.

I am going to need several of these for various projects, so I am thinking about casting them in high heat resin so they will survive being outside in direct sunlight. I may make them and an oars set available if there is enough interest.

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Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Wed Nov 12, 2014 7:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:55 am 
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It's probably as much work, but I assume your method will work slightly faster since positioning, and keeping it in position, is perhaps easier on a full shape than on tiny frames... I also assume it will be stronger your way, which is perhaps recommended when on an R/C boat.

Anyway, looking great like the rest of Keokuk.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 2:12 pm 
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Neptune wrote:
It's probably as much work, but I assume your method will work slightly faster since positioning, and keeping it in position, is perhaps easier on a full shape than on tiny frames... I also assume it will be stronger your way, which is perhaps recommended when on an R/C boat.

Anyway, looking great like the rest of Keokuk.


Thanks Neptune. Yes, I went with basswood strakes instead of plastic specifically to avoid any distortion from heat and sunlight. It really is quite a bit easier than cutting rabbets and such, and I don't have to worry about warping the hull while applying the strakes. I can also apply them dry and the super thin CA stiffens everything up nicely. The boat I have planked is extremely rigid but yet surprisingly light.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 2:36 pm 
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Glen

I'm sure your finished item will (with a little care) make an excellent master for subsequent resin cast replicas, as you have already intimated at.

Excellent work :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 5:08 pm 
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PICKETBOAT wrote:
Glen

I'm sure your finished item will (with a little care) make an excellent master for subsequent resin cast replicas, as you have already intimated at.

Excellent work :thumbs_up_1:


Thanks much! I have all the necessary casting equipment (vacuum chamber, casting pressure pot, heat cure resin, etc.) but I have no idea how to make a mold and cast a project like this, i.e., with detail on both sides of a deeply concave surface. Do you know any place I could go to get information?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 4:17 am 
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Glen

I've sent a pm. Hope it helps.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:36 pm 
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I have finished the exterior strakes and added the keel - just needs a little touchup filler. Hopefully I will get the interior done this weekend and slop some paint on it. After discussing the ins and outs of making a mold for resin casting with Picketboat, I have decided to save myself a lot of aggravation and just make them all from vac and wood.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 4:17 pm 
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Adding the internal structure to the basic hull:

Image

And starting to prime and paint. Just like the real thing: slop paint on it until it doesn't leak! Once the white is done I will start adding the natural wood components (gunwales, thwarts, gratings, etc.)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:51 pm 
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Thwarts and capstrips added to the hull. I used basswood with a mahogany stain for the natural wood because the grain of real mahogany always looks too big to me in 1/32 scale.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Glen

An excellent job.

A good move to use Lime (Bass wood) and stain it. I hate to see timber used on models, which has a grain structure massively out of scale. Lime also has the characteristic of being easy to carve/cut and machine.

Keep those pictures coming.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:58 pm 
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Extraordinary model,.. this has been a fascinating presentation.
Very much looking forward to future installments.

miulan


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:02 pm 
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A couple Dahlgren pictures I thought I had posted, but hadn't. Forward gun deck nearly complete - sailor needs to be a little less bug-eyed :shock:

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Test fire of the aft Dahlgren using 25 grains of FF powder and wadding. I have yet to fire a ball out of it. With just wadding the recoil was 6".

Image

And if you think firing the little Dahlgren is cool, you should see the Big Dog bark! 1/16 scale (.69 caliber / 110 grains) compared to 1/32 (.32 caliber / 15 grains). The 1/16 barrel weighs 5 pounds:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:07 pm 
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Nice looking work. Love the green of the gun carriage.

One tip for getting rid of the "bug eyes" in figures: don't use white in the eyes, just do the iris and pupil, leave the rest of the eye socket in flesh tone. (a tip from figure modeler extraordinaire Shepard Paine).

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Starting to hang the whaleboats on the davits. Note the amount of line, which is correct for Keokuk. Lots of ship models have ship handling tackle that is way too short because the builder didn't do the math: for a double and single block combination, you need four runs of line that reach from the tops of the davits to the lifting eyes of the boat when it is in the water: three lines for the blocks and the fourth for the crew. For Keokuk that works out to roughly 60 feet. Clearly that amount of line won't hang on the cleats, so I checked period photos and found that on Kearsarge they stowed the extra line in the boats. On Galena they let the line hang down the davit from the cleat and looped it around the base. Since Keokuk had such a low freeboard and sloping sides, I suspect they would have stowed the lines in the boats to help keep them dry. It's also safe to assume that for inspection they would have been neatly coiled to some degree, but in actual service they were probably just tossed in.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 10:15 am 
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I was a bit late seeing this Post.
A great topic and fantastic build. I was hoping there would be more with some Pics of the competed ship.
However...

Now that I have just latched on to this “Best Topic Ever”, I have a few belated comments.

Glen,

Your Research and postings on the actual Ships Construction and appearance is OUTSTANDING!
Ie: “Keokuk's armor bands were of course 36" wide and coincided with the frame spacing, for a total of ~51 armor bands.”
And such details:
“…there is a lot of confusion about Keokuk's armor and I will probably fail at describing it here, but I will try. The inner hull was two layers of overlapping 1/2" iron plate. For the armored areas, alternating 1" x 4" wood and iron stringers were applied edgewise and longitudinally, i.e., running the length of the hull casemates and the circumferences of the turrets. Then there was a 1-1/2" thick outer skin made up of three layers of overlapping 1/2" iron plates. Total armored hull thickness was 5-3/4". The original design called for Keokuk's carriage bolts (often mistaken for rivets) to be ground flat. Whether this expensive and time-consuming task was actually performed on a grossly cost-overrun and late-to-be-delivered ship is open to debate until someone dives on the wreck and looks.”

And History I did not know:

“As for criticisms of the armor, Keokuk took over 90 hits in less than 30 minutes with only minor injuries to the crew and no fatalities. This ship would have been a formidable opponent in a surface engagement, but unfortunately never got the chance to prove it.”

Needless to say, A Terrific Build. Can’t wait for the “ Movie”.

Thanks.
Nino

P.S. My skills limit me to a Verlinden 1/200 scale Keokuk. These postings helped show me the error on the Lone Star/Flagship 1/192 Keokuk. (They seem to show the deck with wood planking where it should be Iron plates.)

P.P.S. “More Steam!”


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 2:08 pm 
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Thanks for the kind words Nino. I am not finished yet: just got moved into our retirement home and got the shop up and running. I plan to complete it over the winter and get it launched in the spring. Stay tuned!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 3:16 pm 
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YOU BET I WILL!

I have mentioned your build to some of the Folks at Fine Scale Modelers.
If okay with you I would like to add a link to your build here.

Again, WOW!

Nino.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 3:26 pm 
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Wow, this is just incredible work. Very good job.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 4:10 pm 
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Glen the Rotorhead wrote:
Thanks for the kind words Nino. I am not finished yet: just got moved into our retirement home and got the shop up and running. I plan to complete it over the winter and get it launched in the spring. Stay tuned!


Say, you've got a Ram on this thing. You don't need to wait for Spring. Break that ice!

I will stay tuned!

Nino ( Jim)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:07 am 
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Happy to report that I am now retired and plan to have Keokuk finished in time for the 2018 Weak Signals show. I could use some help with somebody sewing the canvas turret awnings for me. Anyone know of a source? Basically a couple canvas circles made of pie slices sewn together.


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