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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 7:21 am 
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Devin, as an FYI I just finished carving the plug for the 28 ft x 6 ft No. 1 whaleboats and it looks like they would fit easily in cradles with room to get around them. That being said, Corbett doesn't show cradles on his drawing or pad eyes to tie them down.


Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Thu May 08, 2014 7:02 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 7:33 am 
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Interesting. I've often wondered about that, if there was some sort of temporary boat cradle in use on ironclads. You never see any photos of monitors with boats on cradles, only hanging from davits. With everything else being removable for battle, I wonder if boat cradles were the same way; only used during long transits?

I may do some sort of cradle on my Keokuk, as the Flagship Models davits are very nice and well executed, but I don't know that they're strong enough to hang a resin boat from.

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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:19 pm 
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Devin wrote:
Interesting. I've often wondered about that, if there was some sort of temporary boat cradle in use on ironclads. You never see any photos of monitors with boats on cradles, only hanging from davits. With everything else being removable for battle, I wonder if boat cradles were the same way; only used during long transits?

I may do some sort of cradle on my Keokuk, as the Flagship Models davits are very nice and well executed, but I don't know that they're strong enough to hang a resin boat from.


I think I read someplace that the ironclad boats were kept on cradles to take the load off the davits and to avoid damaging the boats from swinging all over the place. Keokuk I suspect would have swung the davits inboard and had the boats sitting on cradles with the tackle still attached to the boats, but with slack in the lines. Some of the other monitors I have seen in engravings (no photos) with the boats removed completely from the davits and secured inboard. Seems like way more work than it would have been worth! I guess maybe the thought process was in case of emergency the boats would float off the deck pretty quickly and davits would be unnecessary.


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 2:24 pm 
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Crash course on making a 1/32 28' x 6' N0. 1 Whaleboat shell:

1. Size the drawings and cut half lift and profile patterns.

Image

2. Glue the lift patterns to correct thickness basswood and bandsaw to shape. I tack glue two pieces together for each lift and cut both sides at the same time. Makes it easier to keep the hull symmetrical. Note the top lift is considerably thicker because of the fore and aft peaks.

Image

3. Mark the frame locations on each lift and glue the stacks up, matching up the frame markings. MAKE SURE YOU MAKE A RIGHT AND LEFT SET!

Image

4. Glue the profile to the inside of each stack and bandsaw the sheer line into the stack. I repeat: MAKE SURE YOU MAKE A LEFT AND RIGHT SET! (Does it sound like I haven't in the past? :doh_1: )

Image

5. Carve the hull halves to shape, being sure to use frame patterns to make sure the halves are the correct shape and the hull is symmetrical. When the halves are complete, glue them together to make the master plug. I seal my plugs with epoxy finishing resin. I didn't need a perfect finish on this plug because I am using the resulting vacuum formed shells as bases to glue overlapping strakes on the insides and outsides.

Image

6. Vacuum form the shell. Again, I don't care about the webs on the vac because the shell is going to be covered inside and out. When that happens, I just fill inside the webs with CA and sand them off.

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7. The plug and a trimmed shell in .040" styrene.

Image

8. The No. 1 Whaleboat shell (rear) compared to a No. 2 Whaleboat. Both of these styles were carried on USS Roanoke in 1855. I wanted to use the No. 2 on Keokuk because it matches the hull shape, but had I measured a little more carefully to begin with, I would have known she carried No. 1 boats. But hey, now I have 1/32 plugs for both patterns of 28' Civil War whaleboats!

Image

9. Whaleboat shell sitting on the deck.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 7:05 pm 
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Here's a new and improved test fire of the aft 11" Dahlgren, which has not yet been detailed. I have tripled the powder charge from the original load and it actually appears to help keep the glow plug from fouling. This is about as much recoil as I care to put on the boat, and I will be adding a spring return at the front and snubbers at the rear.

Unfortunately, I had to completely disassemble the forward detailed gun to beef up the barrel mounting. Coiling all those ropes was a PITA. But I haven't redone something yet and had it turn out worse, so I remain optimistic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dPTyah ... e=youtu.be


Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Tue Jun 03, 2014 1:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 9:52 pm 
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nice job on the small boats,the ship I am building has 6, 26 foot double ended lifeboats.so I am going to have to give vacuforming a go


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 5:29 am 
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russclark wrote:
nice job on the small boats,the ship I am building has 6, 26 foot double ended lifeboats.so I am going to have to give vacuforming a go


Thanks. Depending on the scale and boat style you need there are lots of nice 26' whaleboats out there available in vac and resin and even fiberglass. Suppliers include Masterpieces in Miniature, Deans, Micro Glass, and Fleetscale. Unfortunately nothing I could use in 1/32. For the 1/16 version I am using Model Shipways 32' whale boats shortened three inches with modified keels and stem/stern posts. I don't create a lot of work for myself when I don't have to!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:35 am 
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Simply Impressive


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 6:24 am 
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nice job of small boat too!
Song.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:11 am 
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This is a very impressive build.

The work on the ships boats is excellent.

An observation and tip for those experimenting with vac forming whalers and boats. Try cutting the shaped wooden plug/mould for the boats in half length ways, then vac forming the boat in two hull halves. Adding a thin layer of wood to to each mould half cut surfaces builds in an allowance for any meniscus type webbing that occurs around the edge. The two hull halves glue perfectly together with solvent weld. Half hulls are less prone to webbing in the bow and stern and a heck of a lot easier to get off the mould, which is good if you have to make a dozen ships boats!

Can't wait for the next instalment Glen. I love the youtube footage of the gun test. I hope you were wearing ear defenders!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:06 pm 
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I have almost finished the deck and turret assembly.

Here is the sequence for making the clamshell gun port shutters. I made a "Loaf of Shutters" and sliced it to the correct thickness so they would all match:

Image

And the shutters installed on the forward turret:

Image

Here is the mechanism used to open and close the shutters. I will add rope coils to the cleats when I am finished painting and detailing. These were also made in a "Loaf" and then soaked and bent to follow the shape of the turret:

Image

The Corbett drawing is pretty sketchy about the pilot house roof-mounted hatch, so I went with a sliding arrangement similar to what was used on the turret top of USS Monitor. I decided that it would have been solid iron and quite substantial, since it was directly over the heads of the Captain and helmsman. It also appears that the only way to use the hatch was to climb up the wheel stand:

Image

Overall view. I have made all the stanchions and masts but will not install them until the very end. At this point I plan to include the canopies as well, but not the deck awnings.

Image


Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:19 am 
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Glen

I assume the four little slots in the armour, forward of the steering position are to allow the helmsman forward visibility. It must have been very similar to driving a tank!

I'm enjoying this build and I'm impressed with the quality of the construction. Keep the post coming.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:51 am 
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PICKETBOAT wrote:
Glen

I assume the four little slots in the armour, forward of the steering position are to allow the helmsman forward visibility. It must have been very similar to driving a tank!

I'm enjoying this build and I'm impressed with the quality of the construction. Keep the post coming.


Thanks and yes they are the forward vision ports - there were two additional on the port and starboard rear quarters. It so happens that I do have the model set up to be driven like a tank: the left stick is port throttle and the right is starboard, with both sticks spring-centering to neutral. The rudder was so small as to be useless, so I assume that the real ship was operated this way. Further substantiation is that there appeared to be a small steam engine on the forward end of each prop shaft. The only reason for them being there that I can come up with, is to help jack the main propulsion engines from forward to reverse. That would have made the ship surprisingly responsive and agile. As is, her top speed was almost twice that of her intended adveraries (Chicora and Palmetto State) - a whopping 9 knots actual!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:39 am 
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Glen

There is something about scale models which often renders the rudder inadequate for control, and the problem gets worse as the models gets smaller. I wonder if it is some sort of "physics issue" involving scale and water viscosity On several of my models I have designed a clear acylic rudder extension which can be clipped in place when they are used on the water. It can not be seen when the model sails and dramatically improves control. When the model is on it's display stand the extension is easily removed and thus there are no visible non scale items showing.

Keep those pictures coming.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:33 am 
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PICKETBOAT wrote:
Glen

There is something about scale models which often renders the rudder inadequate for control, and the problem gets worse as the models gets smaller. I wonder if it is some sort of "physics issue" involving scale and water viscosity On several of my models I have designed a clear acylic rudder extension which can be clipped in place when they are used on the water. It can not be seen when the model sails and dramatically improves control. When the model is on it's display stand the extension is easily removed and thus there are no visible non scale items showing.

Keep those pictures coming.


I visited your site and saw your clear rudder enlargement - it is an excellent way to solve the problem without altering scale outline. It would not work for Keokuk however because the rudder was protected by an iron frame enclosing the bottom and rear.

Cheers
Glen


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:56 pm 
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really very fine work...

I would be scared to get it wet!!


JIM B :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:04 pm 
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JIM BAUMANN wrote:
really very fine work...

I would be scared to get it wet!!

JIM B :wave_1:


The difference between RC boats and RC planes is that if something goes wrong, the former is far more likely to survive (mostly) intact than the latter...unless you're motoring in a really, really REALLY deep lake.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:41 pm 
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Goodwood wrote:
JIM BAUMANN wrote:
really very fine work...

I would be scared to get it wet!!

JIM B :wave_1:


The difference between RC boats and RC planes is that if something goes wrong, the former is far more likely to survive (mostly) intact than the latter...unless you're motoring in a really, really REALLY deep lake.


Or if you are operating a wood boat carrying 8 ounces of liquid butane, two open flame burners, some gunpowder, and two boilers running at 350 degrees :mad_2:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:17 pm 
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So you'll probably want to make sure the seas are calm, amirite? :cool_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:03 pm 
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Goodwood wrote:
So you'll probably want to make sure the seas are calm, amirite? :cool_1:


For sure I'm going to stay close to shore for the trial runs and have a fire extinguisher handy!


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