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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 2:25 pm 
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Posts: 97
taeyun kim wrote:
Hello! I'm a new boy in this board, name is Taeyun Kim of the south Korea.
Your job made me the first log-in on this forum.
This is the most amazing modelling job I've ever seen, especially installing the 'live steam engine' - the Shock!
I guess you established perfect plan for this model, while the most builder start their work by improvising.
I found some 'valves' attached on the pipework, are those working part of the engine or replica?
I look forward to the day when this monitor ship goes to the water.^^


Thank you for the kind words Taeyun and welcome to the board! There are people here far more talented than I am, which is why I joined. All of the valves you see have a purpose and are fully functioning. I am building this same ship in 1/16 scale (twice as big.) It has a scale engine room and many of the valves in that model are just for scale appearance.

Cheers
Glen


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:39 am 
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When you are done I am going to count every one of them . :rolf_3:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:28 pm 
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Here is the lower hull about 90% complete with the shafts and struts permanently installed. I need to do a little more strake feathering at the ends and cleaning up the edges. The upper armor belts will overlap the top edge. I think that probably the whole hull below the waterline was caulked, so I don't plan on any flush bolt head or seam detail.

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The pointy end. Oh wait, both ends are pointy. This is the pointy end that goes into the other ship.

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And this is the pointy end that makes it go. The props look silver but they are actually unpolished cast bronze, built to the original plans by the Prop Shop. Man they do nice work and I can't recommend them highly enough for custom work. Absolutely no vibration off these props at full speed, which is way beyond what is needed for scale speed.

Image


Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 4:48 pm 
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Location: London, England
All I can say is... WOW! :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:46 am
Posts: 1719
Location: Hoboken, NJ
Glen,

Not sure how I missed this build all of this time. She's looking good! Always happy to see someone give some attention to the WAY underappreciated ACW ironclads. Oddly enough, I pulled out my Verlinden kit of Keokuk the other day; not the most accurate thing ever made, but more so than most kits of her, but really simply and a good painter's model.

Look forward to seeing more!

-Devin

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 7:04 pm 
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Here is the removable center section taking shape. Sadly, I made the bolt holes too big so all the deck plates need to be redone. I also decided that even though the deck camber will be only 1/32 inch on the model, I need to add that too. Without the camber the center of the deck actually looks like it is caving in, even though it is dead flat and reinforced with 1/8 inch aluminum plate inside.

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I tried out Rustoleum Filler Primer and in the process I found what I think is the perfect base color for Blockade Gray for the 1/32 USS Miami that I am working on. The paint is almost as nice a Krylon to work with but takes quite a bit longer to dry.

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Inside the aft turret basic about ready to be finished in white paint and detailed. There were overlapping riveted plates secured by bands at the top and bottom. I have always assumed that they were lead, but they could be 1/2 inch iron as they are nearly identical to the smokestack plates both in size and construction technique.

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Inside forward turret and pilot house.

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I am going to detail the overlapping plates with Archers resin rivets in the correct diameter and spacing.


Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:22 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 7:16 pm 
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The smokestack appears to have been made the same as the inside walls of the turrets: from overlapping 1/2 inch thick plates with reinforcing bands at the top and bottom. The stack started out with a solid plug master turned to the correct ID and taper on a lathe. I then marked the plug with the plate sizes and created the pattern for the six plates, giving them a 1/8 inch overlap. After gluing the plates together, I had a skin to wrap around the plug.

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The completed basic stack minus rivet details and the bands that will keep it round.

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The stack with bands and Archers resin rivets added. The black rivets on gray primer help get everything lined up. I will be adding rivets to the inside of the stack as well, since it is a nice touch that is rarely seen and the hole is big enough to see down easily.

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The stack in planned paint scheme for the entire ship, which is based on Floquil Weathered Black drybrushed with Gray Primer and then panels sprayed with various tones of black and gray stains. Floquil is tough to beat for durability and opaque finishes with very thin coats of paint. No weathering applied here but seeing how the ship lasted a little over a month after commissioning, there wasn't a lot of heavy weathering.

Image


Last edited by Glen the Rotorhead on Tue Jul 30, 2013 11:35 am, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 4:41 pm 
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Location: Nr Southampton England
most excellent work, sharp and clean!


:thumbs_up_1:

Jim Baumann :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 5:29 am 
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JIM BAUMANN wrote:
most excellent work, sharp and clean!


:thumbs_up_1:

Jim Baumann :wave_1:


Thanks for the compliment Jim. Not as nice as your work, but I'm getting there, albeit slowly. :smallsmile:

This project is really taxing my abilities and I learn something new every day.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 12:22 pm 
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Location: The Mediterranean sea
I really enjoy this ship, I'm also interested by the American civil war :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 9:51 am 
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I finally got my Bix pressure regulators and they work GREAT! I can get 1 hour run time out of a single water fill. Here the power modules about ready to install. I still need to make the gas piping for the starboard module. The silver box in between is a smoke generator/air circulating unit that will be piped into the smokestack collector. The exhaust pipe for the port condensation box will be connected via silicone tube to the smokestack collector. The starboard will be connected to the galley smokestack. They both put out a surprising amount of steam - probably because there is no baffling inside the boxes.

I designed the power units as modules so they can be easily removed (less than a minute) and put in other models as a pair or individually.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:29 am 
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Here is the mechanism for firing black powder. First my machinist dad modified the barrels to take heavy duty radio control airplane glow plugs.

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Then I picked up a pair of onboard glow drivers for RC aircraft, which are self contained units that only require being plugged into the receiver in an on/off channel.

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Then the barrel will be installed with the glow plug on the bottom (also helps to ensure gunpowder contact with the element) and the wires passing through the base with the glow drivers installed under the gun decks.

Image

I have test fired the system and just a tiny amount of black powder throws a flame about 12" and fills the shop with smoke!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 4:01 pm 
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beautifully executed...

Its all so sharp and crisp !!! -- but that's the beaut of large scale!!!

:thumbs_up_1:

Jim Baumann

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http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 7:09 pm 
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Location: Detroit area
Oh my giddy aunt...

Glen, when you finish this build and put her to sea, you have GOT to make a video of her maiden voyage! :destroyer:

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On the ways:
1/700 Tamiya USS Yorktown CV-5
In the stash:
1/35 Italiari PT-109
1/35 Tamiya "Pibber" Patrol Boat
1/350 Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-10
1/700 Tamiya USS Indianapolis CA-35 and I-58


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 5:46 am 
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I'm speechless :woo_hoo:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:44 am 
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Location: Hoboken, NJ
Wow, that's freakin' amazing! How close to the prototype is your design of the steam engine?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 12:00 pm 
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Devin wrote:
Wow, that's freakin' amazing! How close to the prototype is your design of the steam engine?


Thanks Devin, this "little" one was just an exercise in seeing how much steam machinery I could stuff into a 5' hull. It is kinda scale because it is twin boiler/twin, twin-cylinder engines. It literally came down to rebending the gas lines several times just to get them to fit. I also had to reposition the gas tanks several times so I could reach the fill valves when installed in the ship and still be able to get the modules to clear the gun deck hangers for removal.

The 1/16, 10' version has a scale engine room, down to boiler size and the number of perforations in the deck plates.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:29 am 
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Fit-Check check. Check. Everything operates according to plan on the bench, so it's time to check everything in the boat.

First the engine modules, speakers, rudder servo, and smoke unit. Each module has its own speaker system because the engines will be running at separate RPMs and I want that asynchronous clatter. This is going to make some gawd-awful noise on the water.

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Next the forward gun deck fitted over the modules. I have yet to install the hangers for the aft gun deck, but everything was trial fitted to ensure there are no clearance issues with the engines. On the real Keokuk the aft gun deck hung over the engines as well.

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And then the main deck section over everything. This is how far the muzzles protruded from the gun ports. You will see model kits and artwork with the barrels sticking out a couple feet. They are wrong. At that recoil distance it would have been impossible to load the guns from inside the cupolas.

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And still to go (batteries and lights not included):

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:44 am 
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Location: Hoboken, NJ
Lovely. Pretty. Beautiful!

I like your recessed deck armor bolts. Can I assume you're going to use raised bolts to hold on the sloping armor down to the waterline?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:54 am 
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Devin wrote:
Lovely. Pretty. Beautiful!

I like your recessed deck armor bolts. Can I assume you're going to use raised bolts to hold on the sloping armor down to the waterline?


Hi Devin, thanks. According to the drawings, no domed bolts or rivets on Keokuk except for the raised rivets on the smoke pipe. Everything else was 2" head flush countersunk bolts at 12" centers.


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