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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:43 pm 
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Here is an update, sorry no new pics, just gathered a lot of new info:

So I believe that I have come up with a way to easily make all four elevators work. The "C" channels that the elevator rides in have the opening facing outwards, instead of facing each other. I have measured them and they all seem to be the exact same track width, so that's good. I will have my friend Mark make me a jig tool to hold the two channels perfectly aligned while they are cemented in place. That should ensure smooth movement of the guides. Now for the mechanism to make it work. I was thinking of getting a very inexpensive R/C unit, then cannibalize it to remove the joysticks and replace them with simple switches. My only requirement will be that I can adjust the end point limits. There will be central power in the ship to power the RX. Then, for each elevator I mount a servo under the hanger deck and use a metal gear servo. Does not need to be fancy just durable. Then attach a long 180 horn. Maybe 1/5" on each side. Then, the elevators are actually in real life lifted by the cables at the four corners, so why not do the same? I have some very thin, but very strong black monofilament line. At the top of the cables, inside the "03" level will be a "V"-groove pulley. The cables will attach to the support beam under the EL on each corner, the cables will (I will use maybe 4 filaments per corner) go up and over the pulley and then into a guide tube. I will use that thin clear tubing used for R/C control surfaces, just the inner tube. That will act as a guide tube and route the filaments down to the servo. So say that was the #1 El the forward outboard cable, it would run down to the servo and through the hole on the horn and then run back into another guide tube and up to the "03" level right by the pulley for the forward inboard cable and then down to the elevator. The aft cables will be run in the same manner. Then, when the servo arm moves, it pulls equally on all four cables, and the length of the servo arm will be proportional to the length of the raise of the Elevator. I will have a single cable in each "C" channel attached to the bottom of the guides, and it will go to the opposite side of that servo horn to be sure to pull the elevator down and not have to rely on gravity, because although I think that weight of the elevator and aircraft on it should be enough to pull it down, I do not want to rely on that. It should be simple enough to route the plumbing. It should work, in theory anyways.

I now have all of the aircraft 3D models and some are not that good. Oh, and if you are interested in doing 3D modeling in SolidWorks, and you are a Veteran, SolidWorks has a Veterans program where they will sell you the $5,400.00 dollar version of their program, for $20.00! Yes, you read that right, Twenty Dollars! I and Lino and my other buddy Jason were stunned, All you have to do is go to their site and send them a copy of your DD-214. I sent for a copy of mine which should be here any day. I am planning on doing the aft RADAR mast in SW and the crew boats and cradles, and I'll have to clean up a bunch of the 3D files I have gotten and make them "Watertight" is the term in 3D printing.

The F-14 came out okay, but I am going to take the model apart and then have it printed again to make it easier to make a mold and cast them. I am going to do this will all the birds, break them apart and cast as parts, then reassemble them. I found a TU-95 Bear Bomber and the Il-38 May and I CLEARLY remember them flying over every day, twice a day sometimes, with two F-14's in 'escort'. There a picture of it in my cruise book, so I am going to print one of each of those and then have them 'flying' above the carrier with 2 Tomcats on either side. I think that would look cool. Also, by taking them apart, they take up less volume to print and I can print them with twice the resolution at 50 microns which will give much better details, but you can only print in 1/4 of the footprint in that machine.

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Michael Clare

On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


Last edited by mclare on Tue Aug 26, 2014 11:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 3:04 am 
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Hello Michael. I am sorry because i didn´t see your post until now.
Your idea of how to move the elevators is nice, but i would need some drawings or something else to get a better idea of the mechanism.
I think that probably, i have some pictures of another carrier built by a guy that made the elevators work and he used servos also, but i would have to look for those pictures. I ´ll try to find them.

Keep working on the carrier, your work is awesome. i like it very much.

jorge

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:42 pm 
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Jaguar wrote:
Hello Michael. I am sorry because i didn´t see your post until now.
Your idea of how to move the elevators is nice, but i would need some drawings or something else to get a better idea of the mechanism.
I think that probably, i have some pictures of another carrier built by a guy that made the elevators work and he used servos also, but i would have to look for those pictures. I ´ll try to find them.

Keep working on the carrier, your work is awesome. i like it very much.

jorge


Jorge,

Here is a sketch of what I am thinking. It is crude, but I hope you get the idea.

LMK what you think my friend.

Image

My building will be a whole lot better than my drawing! I could break out my drafting stuff... LOL I got this idea when I was at the gym and was on one of the machines. It has this double captive system of cables and pulleys, and you can move the weight bar attachment point up or down. And that gave me the idea.

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 3:10 pm 
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I sure hope so, would be a waste otherwise :twisted:

I suppose your system could work, although the working range of a servo (angle) is rather limited, and the distance that you have to move your elevator is relatively large (compared to that working range). You could also make an additional double pulley system increase the mechanical range of the elevator. The other way would probably to use a sail servo or remove the mechanical limit inside a servo, that way the servo motor will turn without limitation and you can use it to spool a line on a drum, it will also make the system more compact. The downside (I suppose, haven't tried this myself), would probably be that the rope could get stuck on the drum or depending on the weight of the elevator, get stuck when lowering it. Your system would probably do away with that potential problem.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 3:25 pm 
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Neptune wrote:
I sure hope so, would be a waste otherwise :twisted:

I suppose your system could work, although the working range of a servo (angle) is rather limited, and the distance that you have to move your elevator is relatively large (compared to that working range). You could also make an additional double pulley system increase the mechanical range of the elevator. The other way would probably to use a sail servo or remove the mechanical limit inside a servo, that way the servo motor will turn without limitation and you can use it to spool a line on a drum, it will also make the system more compact. The downside (I suppose, haven't tried this myself), would probably be that the rope could get stuck on the drum or depending on the weight of the elevator, get stuck when lowering it. Your system would probably do away with that potential problem.


I gave thought to the servo arm issue. They do make very long arms and if the hole is on the end of it, then that should give enough travel. Rough estimate is about 2" of cable travel at most, 1.5" optimally. If there are no commercially available servo arms, I will have my friend Mark make up four of them in aluminum for durability. I will also use metal gear, high torque, servos not for the pulling power as much as for the durability. I gave thought to the cables slipping off the drum and I will make the guide tubes as close to the drum as possible, and I will have Mark make them grooved as well, and I will put a shield to keep the cables captive as well.

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 1:20 am 
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The problem with the servo arm mechanism is that to get a long travel you need a long arm, and the longer the arm the poorer the mechanical advantage (the more force you will need). And it requires a lot of space for the long arm.

A simpler mechanism is shown in the drawing. A cable is wound around the drum a few turns to prevent it from slipping, and is then run through a series of pulleys (tube rollers). The elevator is attached to the cable as shown so that both sides are going up (or down) at the same time.

A similar rig is located at both ends of the elevator, and both drums are on the same shaft. This ensures that all four corners of the elevator platform move up/down in the same direction and the same rate.

A single reversable motor drives the shaft. You can use a small high speed low-torque (low power) motor and gear it down to gain torque to turn the drum shaft.

The limit switches (single pole single throw push to break) interrupt motor power for the associated motor direction. If you use a bidirectional servo that senses stall to drive the drum shaft you may not need these limit switches.

Phil


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elevator mechanism.jpg
elevator mechanism.jpg [ 47.71 KiB | Viewed 1875 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:10 pm 
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DrPR wrote:
The problem with the servo arm mechanism is that to get a long travel you need a long arm, and the longer the arm the poorer the mechanical advantage (the more force you will need). And it requires a lot of space for the long arm.

A simpler mechanism is shown in the drawing. A cable is wound around the drum a few turns to prevent it from slipping, and is then run through a series of pulleys (tube rollers). The elevator is attached to the cable as shown so that both sides are going up (or down) at the same time.

A similar rig is located at both ends of the elevator, and both drums are on the same shaft. This ensures that all four corners of the elevator platform move up/down in the same direction and the same rate.

A single reversable motor drives the shaft. You can use a small high speed low-torque (low power) motor and gear it down to gain torque to turn the drum shaft.

The limit switches (single pole single throw push to break) interrupt motor power for the associated motor direction. If you use a bidirectional servo that senses stall to drive the drum shaft you may not need these limit switches.

Phil



Hi Phil and thanks for the suggestions!

Actually, this method you show was my second in the three methods I came up with, and I'll show you my logic tree so you can see how I came up with this method:

The first method that I and Mark came up with was to use miniature jack-screws in each guide rail with a captive bolt in the track, and with limit switches for stop points. The captive bolt would be attached to the guide arms on the elevator. But with that method you need precision, and very tiny jack screws and nuts, and those look prone to jam and fail, and you are lifting it at the weakest point with the least amount of attachment material.

Then I thought about the drum version you mentioned and I discounted it for these two reasons: First off as you pointed out you need limit switches or load sensing. I have load sening circuit in my Mercedes power antenna, and while it works okay in there, I do have a nice side business repairing them for people where they have failed, and once the hull and decks are sealed, there will be no access to get to them to do any repairs, so they have to work trouble free. And I don't see that system nearing 100% maintenance free.

With the system, I propose, yes it is a bit more bulky, b ut this is a LARGE carrier and the lower hull area is cavernous! I figure to need a 4" x 4" x 4" cube adjacent to each elevator opening just under the hanger deck, and there is plenty of room for even the largest of servo's. I calculate to need a 2 1/4" lift and so 1 to 1 the servo arm needs to travel that much, and by my calculations, I would at most need 3" x 3" x 3" so there is plenty of spare room down there. Also, the servo arm will only have to be 3" long to achieve a 2 1/4" pull at just over 90 degree travel, and I see those are readily available in several different materials, so I will not have to have one custom made, I can buy one off the shelf.

Let's talk about torque, and the amount of weight needing to be lifted. If I got a metal gear servo, they have really good generic ones with variable voltage: http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d227.html Check out that servo. It is only $10 ea. It runs on three different power settings and at 4.8v it still has 159 oz's of torque. It's very quick and smooth, and strong. I just weighed one of the 3D printed F-14's and it only weighs .5 oz. So if you doubled that weight to account for paint and weapons, say it tips the scale at 1 oz. Times two is 2 oz. The whole elevator I cannot imagine weighing more than 4 ox total. So that's 6 oz in all, but let's add 2 more oz for "Just in case weight" (Say adding a lot of weapons and crew guys. Still only 8 oz and the servo can lift 160 in low power mode, say we use 6V it can lift 180 oz! That's 22.5 times more than the elevator and cargo weigh. I will not lose that much with a 1.5" arm length. So I think that the servo can easily lift that much.

Next is the issue of the end of travel stops. With a programmable radio, I can set the travel speed, which we want slower, and the end point stop adjustments far more easily, than with having to use limit switches, and all that that entails. A couple of taps on the radio and I can easily fine tune the top and bottom stop points, but with limit switches, it may not ram hope at the correct point and I believe there is a lot more adjusting that would be needed. The servo arm method will have just two attach points, the holes at the end of the arm. Each cable set will enter a guide tube and go to its respective hang point, then over one pulley and down to the attach point on the elevator support beams.

I intend to make a full scale mock up once I get a little closer to see if it will indeed work, so we'll see. In the meantime, thanks so much for taking the time to make the suggestions and to make a very nice drawing! We'll see how it turns out.

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:53 pm 
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There is one other thing you could do as well. Combine the two ideas. There are servos that actually give you 1 full turn or so. If you'd then calculate how much rope you need, you just need to have a drum/pulley on the servo with half that length as circumference. In that case you don't need limit switches (the limit is already there inside the servo), 1/2 turn counterclockwise = elevator down, 1/2 turn clockwise, elevator up, neutral position, elevator in the middle. Or something along those lines. Can't help you with the maths cause I'm a metric guy :heh: However it would probably still end up in a smaller lay-out (although size isn't your primary issue, it might come in handy).
I was looking at such servos to turn a crane and hoist the wire on a future project.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:05 pm 
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Neptune wrote:
There is one other thing you could do as well. Combine the two ideas. There are servos that actually give you 1 full turn or so. If you'd then calculate how much rope you need, you just need to have a drum/pulley on the servo with half that length as circumference. In that case you don't need limit switches (the limit is already there inside the servo), 1/2 turn counterclockwise = elevator down, 1/2 turn clockwise, elevator up, neutral position, elevator in the middle. Or something along those lines. Can't help you with the maths cause I'm a metric guy :heh: However it would probably still end up in a smaller lay-out (although size isn't your primary issue, it might come in handy).
I was looking at such servos to turn a crane and hoist the wire on a future project.


Interesting idea. We'll see how it lays out when I build the full scale mock-up.

These servo's won't have a middle stop point, they will either be up or down. I intend to crack open the transmitter case and remove the joysticks and other switches and replace them all as needed. These will just be regular toggle switches. Up or down, that's it.

In your prior post you mentioned the servo throw. I calculated it will only need 100 degrees or so of travel for the direct arm connect method, with a 3" arm, and most all servo's do that OOB.

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:48 am 
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you could add counterweights on your lifting cables if needed to reduce the servo load.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 3:34 am 
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Greg W wrote:
you could add counterweights on your lifting cables if needed to reduce the servo load.


I may need to yes, we'll see. I ordered, and have on the way, most of the items I need now to skin her hull and build up the sponsons and flight deck supports. I intend to sheet the hull with .020" styrene, and the flight deck top layer will be .040" with a .080 sub-deck structure like Jorge's. I've measured the plans with my mic, and it appears that the 03 level and flight deck is not the standard 8 feet, but 12'. I will triple check this again, but the math adds up. Once the hull is sheeted, then I will build up the sponsons and cut the flight deck out and fit and measure everything. Then I will start running the guide tubing, which I picked up over the weekend. I am using DuBro R/C pushrod tubing. The red outer tube and the clear inner one. I will use the inner one. I did some test with it to see how it bends with heat, and I put a flexible wire in it and heated it up and bent it 90 deg and let it cool and it holds the shape nicely. I think they will work well for the elevators.

I ordered two more sets of plans from Tom at The Floating Drydock, and asked him to reverse one set of the plans so that I can have top and bottom profiles of the sponsons, and he said he would copy a set in reverse for me. THANKS Tom! I had a couple of copies made at a local copy center, and they didn't come out very good, and his copies are very good, so I decided to give him the business.

More later.

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 3:50 pm 
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Hello Gentlemen,

Well the plastic sheets came in and I cut out the flight deck and here are the results:

I took the oldest copy I had of the flight deck plans and used the 3M Spray Mount glue to glue it down to the .040" styrene. I used a heavy application as it will have to be down for a bit while I do all of the cuts, and I wanted it very flat. I will deal with the cleanup later, and I know it will be a beach.

I started with the stbd. side bow:

Image

Then did the fantail cuts:

Image

Closeup of Elevator #3 area:

Image

The El #4 area:

Image

Next I did the port side bow cuts, and the rest of the stbd. side:

Image

And the aft port side cuts:

Image

And the finished deck: (I did forget a aft stbd side cut but made it later)

Image

And here it is on the hull (pardon my messy kitchen!) On the bottom left of the pic you can see the 4 sheets of 1/2" balsa for the sponsons. I still need more!)

Image

Closeups of the bow:

Image

Mid deck or "Fly 2" as it's called:

Image

"Fly 3" the aft deck:

Image

From the bow:

Image
Image

During my cruise, the "66" was solid white, not outlines.

Image

The 2 Tomcats I have on cats 3 & 4:

Image
Image
Image
Image

And on Cats 1 & 2:

Image
Image
Image
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Image
Image
Image
Image
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So I have an idea on how to do the catapults. I will take a square tube of aluminum and slit it down one side, then make the shuttles to fit inside and then use the aforementioned method of using a small motor and drum winch to shoot it back and forth. Easy to mount the limit switches on each end of the cat so the shuttle connects solidly on each end to reverse the motion. A simple push button will trigger it. Easy to make up a circuit to do that. Well that's down the road a bit. IDK about making all four shoot, but at least one I think?

Well that's it for now, thanks for looking!

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 1:04 am 
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Wow, she is taking shape. Good work with the filght deck. How are you going to do the anti-Skid layer and the pad-eyes?

Jorge

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:47 am 
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Jaguar wrote:
Wow, she is taking shape. Good work with the filght deck. How are you going to do the anti-Skid layer and the pad-eyes?

Jorge


The pad-eyes will be somewhat easy I think? My buddy Mark who is the machinist that made the rib setting tool is making me a drilling template. 1/8" plate of aluminum with beveled holes spaced in the proper patterns. The pad-eyes look like they are spaced at 6' intervals and each column is offset by 45 degrees. So I will have him machine that pattern and some closer spaced ones for around the hatches and things. The holes will be beveled as I have a conical Dremel bit. The template will allow the bit to only go down a little tiny bit. There will be alignment holes and marks to line it all up. The holes will only be 1/32nd or so, and the cone shaped drill bit I have should make a nice pad-eye.

As for the non-skid, A couple of different methods come to mind, namely the 400 grit sandpaper, or a heavy coating of flat grey shot very 'dry'. That beads it up and gives it texture. If I use the sandpaper method and leave the deck white, then when I drill the holes, it should make them white like when they are painted white for contrast. IDK if I am going to do the hand wheels like you did or not, we'll see?

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 1:00 pm 
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I was scanning the internet today and came across this forum. Why was I scanning the net for info on the USS America? My Dad served on it around 1968. He was in the Boiler Room 4. My father passed away on July 20th of this year and I have with me his 1968 yearbook, patches, cig. lighters, hats and his service pistol holster.Regretfully he passed away from Mesothelioma that was contracted from this ship but he loved to serve.

I just want to say to you Michael, you are doing a tremendously great job on the ol' girl. Great build and detail. I'm into building model cars, trucks and bikes so I can relate to what it takes to build something from scratch. I will be stopping back to check your progress on this awesome build!!!!

God Bless!!!!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 7:20 pm 
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Forgot to mention I have a couple photos of the flight deck. Not sure if it'd be of interest in the detailing of the deck when you get there...


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 3:12 am 
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Hi Kerry and thanks for the very kind words and high praise, and I hope I can live up to it. I am sorry to hear about your Father, and yes, meso is no joke and I served when asbestos was present and worry about this myself.

I would love any and all pics you would care to share. Feel free to post them here if the mods are ok with it, I am. I am actually working in the FD right now.

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:03 pm 
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You are welcome Michael, it's really looking good so far....
Thanks for the thoughts on my dad, he is missed!! He was on the CV-66 from 1968 to 1972...
hopefully it's ok to post these up..... I put the one of him because it shows part of the ship in the back ground...
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Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:12 pm 
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Even if it didn't show part of the ship, I'm glad you posted the one of him, but I'm glad you showed where he was because I used to stand on that very spot and watch flight ops during down time!

Thanks so much for sharing these! Feel free to add whatever you like, I'm okay with it as long as the mods are!

That RA-5 Vigilante IS HUGE! LOVE the Phantoms on the deck! The E-2's never change! Like new props is about all visibly in 40+ years of service!

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On the Ways:
Scratch-building: 1/192 USS America CV-66

Finished:
Scratch-built: 1/192 USS Arcadia AD-23
Kits: 1/350 Adm. Kuznetsov & USS Wasp LHD-1


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:53 pm 
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So you served on the ol girl too huh? Kool, thank you for your service!!! What dates were you on board?
Have a few more for you....
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Image

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