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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 7:37 pm 
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Model Monkey
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Thank you, Matt and Tom! The encouragement and advice received here is very much appreciated!

The hull has been primed and is nearly ready for paint and further detailing. The red has been smoothed and the black will be shortly. As stated earlier, the red is rattle-can Krylon brand "Red Oxide", a dead ringer for US Navy 121 red oxide, and will not be painted further, just mildly weathered. The portholes on the hull will be re-drilled using a pin vise since the primer has partially filled them.

Straking detail is visible in the photos.

The flight deck (and funnel and conning tower) has merely been placed onto the hull for photo purposes. When the boat bays and AA sponsons are complete, the flight deck will be cemented to the hull. To ensure that the surface of the flight deck is perfectly flat, it will be fixed inverted to a flat surface then the inverted hull will be placed down onto it and shimmed where necessary. Perhaps it is more accurate to say that the hull will be fixed to the flight deck.

You can now get a 3D printed island for your conversion in 1/700 or 1/350:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey
Attachment:
USS Saratoga 1944 portside.jpg
USS Saratoga 1944 portside.jpg [ 24.19 KiB | Viewed 788 times ]

Attachment:
USS Saratoga 1944 aft.png
USS Saratoga 1944 aft.png [ 199.63 KiB | Viewed 788 times ]


Attachments:
File comment: Starboard side. The bottom edge of the black primer will form the boot topping. Photos of the ship indicate that the plating of the starboard stability blister was all butt-welded, unlike the rest of the ship, which was riveted. Therefore, the blister is very smooth compared with the rest of the hull, which is straked.
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.a.jpg
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.a.jpg [ 198.36 KiB | Viewed 1015 times ]
File comment: Port side. Bilge keel is visible. Plating pattern around the bilge keel is consistent with photos as is the slight variation in porthole height just aft of the nearest boat bay. The watertight hatch visible in the side of the hull was common to both Saratoga and Lexington. Through this hatch on Lexington, electrical cabling was passed supplying electricity to the city of Tacoma, WA for a month beginning in December, 1929. Notice also that the portholes inside the boat bay are much larger than those on the hull's shell plating. This is consistent with plans and photos.
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.b.jpg
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.b.jpg [ 183.31 KiB | Viewed 1015 times ]
File comment: The hull-side engineering vents are all open. They need some minor cleanup but otherwise are done.
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.c.jpg
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.c.jpg [ 176.52 KiB | Viewed 1015 times ]
File comment: The floatplane tracks are visible. Photos of the ship in 1944 indicate that the original slot in the center of the floatplane tracks was eliminated, thus the model's tracks are solid.
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.d.jpg
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.d.jpg [ 189.45 KiB | Viewed 1015 times ]
File comment: This is the radar platform on the foremast.
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.e.jpg
1-350 CV-3 Larsen 2015.05.15.e.jpg [ 132.34 KiB | Viewed 1015 times ]

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-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


Last edited by ModelMonkey on Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:45 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 8:15 pm 
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Looking quite good there, Steve, the plating detail is quite fine and I look forward to paint. What kind of overall weathering are you going for; recently painted, mid-deployment, well-used, or something in between?

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 9:41 pm 
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Outstanding work. She is really a beauty.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 10:34 am 
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Model Monkey
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Thanks, Sean and Martin!

I've designed some more accurate and much better detailed 3D-printed angle-back Mk.37 directors. They are available in most popular scales. I'll be replacing the 5"/38 mounts with 3D-printed mounts, too, in order to take advantage of their separate trunnions allowing positioning of the barrels at various elevations.

And in some unpleasant news, a few months back, this model's hull was seriously warped due to several hours of direct sun exposure then badly damaged while trying to correct the warp. So, a new hull is being constructed. The good news is that important lessons learned while building hull 1.0 are being incorporated in hull 2.0 which should make for a better model. The method of plank-on-frame construction is different this time, with planking twice as thick, and hopefully the new hull will be much more resistant to warping. I'll post some wip photos shortly.

Thankfully, the island and funnel were stored separately and were not exposed to sunlight.


Attachments:
1-350 Mk.37 Directors.angle-back (4).jpg
1-350 Mk.37 Directors.angle-back (4).jpg [ 27.22 KiB | Viewed 583 times ]
Model Monkey 1-350 Mk.37 Directors angle-back (2).a.jpg
Model Monkey 1-350 Mk.37 Directors angle-back (2).a.jpg [ 170.21 KiB | Viewed 583 times ]
Model Monkey 1-350 Mk.37 Directors angle-back (2).e.jpg
Model Monkey 1-350 Mk.37 Directors angle-back (2).e.jpg [ 136.38 KiB | Viewed 583 times ]
Model Monkey 1-350 5in38 Mk.32 Twin Mounts with separate trunnions.jpg
Model Monkey 1-350 5in38 Mk.32 Twin Mounts with separate trunnions.jpg [ 23.56 KiB | Viewed 581 times ]

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-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 1:10 pm 
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It's a pity that the hull is damaged! But I know the experience of the first hull results in a better outcome for the second, as i've built countless ones myself! :doh_1:

Looking forward to more progress of the new hull construction! :thumbs_up_1:

Cheers,
Aop

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 3:11 pm 
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I love carriers. Your work is outstanding. Congratulations

Jorge

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http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=153310


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:20 pm 
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Model Monkey
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Thanks, Aop and Jorge!

Here's the new hull under construction with the sides taking shape. It is being built inverted to make sure the flight deck will be perfectly flat. Porthole locations have been identified in pencil as has the location of major features of the flight deck.

The sheet you see here that looks like the flight deck actually isn't. It is a sturdy structural layer that the flight deck will be built upon, kind of like the subfloor in your home. The portholes will be drilled out prior to the sides being sanded smooth. It's easier, I think, to fix any errors with portholes before the sides of the hull are finished. Once the hull has taken shape, the flight deck will be covered with another layer of sheeting simulating the planking.

I like to use V-groove sheet for the hull frames with the grooves running port-starboard. It helps with alignment and symmetry (for those features that are symmetrical). I also used it as the base of the flight deck for the same reason, with the grooves running fore-aft.


Attachments:
Model Monkey Saratoga CV-3 hull version 2.a.jpg.jpg
Model Monkey Saratoga CV-3 hull version 2.a.jpg.jpg [ 372.25 KiB | Viewed 441 times ]
Model Monkey Saratoga CV-3 hull version 2.b.jpg.jpg
Model Monkey Saratoga CV-3 hull version 2.b.jpg.jpg [ 309.71 KiB | Viewed 441 times ]

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-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 10:23 pm 
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what thickness of plastic are you using for the frames, hull skin & flight deck?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:19 am 
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Model Monkey
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40 thousanths.

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-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 2:29 pm 
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thought so. I would have doubled up the frame edges so that the plank strip ends had more material to rest on. on the large flat areas, I would use large plates as would make the hull more rigid & less likely to warp & smaller plates for areas that have curves in it. all my 1/144 ships are plate on frame not plank on frame. even did that on 2 scratchbuilt 1/500 scale ww2 fleet tankers.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 3:14 pm 
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Yay! Glad to see you back at this. When's the 3D printed hull going to be ready? :heh:

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"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 6:19 pm 
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DavidP wrote:
thought so. I would have doubled up the frame edges so that the plank strip ends had more material to rest on. on the large flat areas, I would use large plates as would make the hull more rigid & less likely to warp & smaller plates for areas that have curves in it. all my 1/144 ships are plate on frame not plank on frame. even did that on 2 scratchbuilt 1/500 scale ww2 fleet tankers.

Yours sounds like a very good technique. On Sara, although it doesn't show up well in the photos, the joints between planks and frames are reinforced from within with additional 40 thou. x 40 thou. strips on each side of the frame, effectively making each joint 120 thou. thick. The reinforcement is added after the plank is fixed to the frame so in case I have to adjust the plank, it can be more easily tweaked before the reinforcement gets added. This method seems to work well for the sides, but access to the hull interior as I get close to the keel will be restricted. So, I use a technique similar to yours there. I will install the reinforcement for the hull's bottom first, thickening the frames before the planking is laid.

The real ship's hull bottom has a subtle deadrise, a feature I like a lot, and the hull sides have some sharp-edged knuckles (see plan at Frame 106 below), challenging but fun features to try to capture. Exterior plating strakes will be replicated using different thicknesses of primer on the otherwise smooth hull.

MartinJQuinn wrote:
Yay! Glad to see you back at this. When's the 3D printed hull going to be ready? :heh:

Thanks, Martin! I am actually designing a Sara hull in 3D, working on it from time to time, which is why this model's hull is taking so long. It will be ready when printing technology for reasonably priced large objects catches up, probably in the foreseeable future.


Attachments:
Frame 106.small.jpg
Frame 106.small.jpg [ 197.05 KiB | Viewed 386 times ]

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:51 pm 
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do you bevel the plank edges or let the glue fill the gaps? thin the plank ends when gluing to the bow & stern vertical plates to give you more gluing surface area & less carving\sanding to a point especially the bow. how do you do the bow foot?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:14 pm 
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Model Monkey
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DavidP wrote:
do you bevel the plank edges or let the glue fill the gaps?...

Yes, planks are beveled to ensure maximum mating surface between planks for a strong joint.
DavidP wrote:
...how do you do the bow foot?

Sara had somewhat of a bulbous bow. The bow foot will be sanded to shape from laminations of plastic. The shape and symmetry will be checked against templates while sanding. The knife-edge of the extreme bow will be formed from thin brass cut from scrap photo-etch sheet sandwiched between the planks that meet at the bow. Brass is more resistant to sanding than plastic so as the hull is sanded smooth, the brass ensures that the shape of the edge remains correct, and sharp, especially at the waterline.

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:56 pm 
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I do the same on both but I don't use any metals due to dis-similar material properties issues like expansion\contraction.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 12:33 pm 
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ModelMonkey wrote:
I am actually designing a Sara hull in 3D, working on it from time to time, which is why this model's hull is taking so long. It will be ready when printing technology for reasonably priced large objects catches up, probably in the foreseeable future.

You designed a 3D hull with 123D Design software?!? We have attempted to do this with the Lion hull and did not achieve anything decent, so we need to know more about this! If possible we would also like to see some pics. :woo_hoo:

Aop & Aur

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--1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

--1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

And our artworks!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 1:52 pm 
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The hull is being designed in AutoCAD but I'd like to move it to Fusion and try that software. It looks good.

PM coming your way.

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-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:35 pm 
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what version of autocad?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 6:06 am 
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Model Monkey
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2014

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-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 10:26 am 
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I have the 2015 version, mechanical, electrical & architectural.


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