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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 12:25 pm 
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Thanks, gentlemen !

Absolutely, these small details can take a huge amount of time - also because I don't have the stamina (anymore) to work with the head-loupe for hours, holding my breadth and trying to keep a steady hand. In the next update you will see why ...

The way it is drawn, there may have been a retaining bracket, but I think I will just add a simulated chain - I wanted to get the pictures out and forgot to do this. Will do this before fitting the rack in place.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 3:07 pm 
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It looks like a photo taken with an electron microscope!

Incredible..

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•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 3:44 pm 
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iPhone SE ... I was too lazy to take out the digital SLR ...

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 4:18 pm 
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:big_grin:

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•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2021 12:58 am 
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Lozza electrons are involved!

T


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2021 2:19 pm 
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Completing the skylights 1

The basic structures of the skylights had been produced a long time ago, but completion was delayed until the painting stage and just before fitting onto the model, as many of the details are very delicate and could be easily damaged during storage.

The large engine-room skylight had been constructed from etched brass and bakelite paper parts over a Plexiglas plug milled from the solid. After the different parts had been painted it remained to insert the brass protecting bars. For these, notches had been etched into the underside of the frames to ensure the equidistant positioning of the bars. The bars were cut from 0.1 mm brass-plated copper wire. A diameter of 0.1 mm is equivalent to 16 mm in reality, which is probably too heavy for such bars, but this was the thinnest brass-coloured wire I could find. I have also dark-brass coloured molybdenum in smaller diameters, but it proofed too difficult to cut to exact dimensions in such short lengths due to its hardness.

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The etched fret for the engine-room skylight

The wires were cemented using shellac. To this end I made myself a solution of shellac in alcohol with a consistency of thick honey. This solution is very tacky and stays so for an hour or so – plenty of time to position the short lengths of wire and enough time to cut new ones, if they should jump off your tweezers. A drop of alcohol will also redissolve the shellac should further adjustments be needed.

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The process of cementing the protective bars with shellac

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Installation of the bars complete

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Outside view of skylight cap

The skylight received a base-coat of Prince August ‘wood’, followed by a wash of ‘transparent mahogany’. To give this mahogany simulation some ‘depth’ a couple of coats of Vallejo ‘satin varnish’ were added before the bars were installed.

Finally, the frame, the Plexiglas plug and the skylight cap were assembled. A small turned brass button was added to simulate the vent – the actual look is conjectural, as it is barely visible only on the very first photograph that was taken of SMS WESPE.

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The skylight cap fitted to the Plexiglas-plug

The two holes in the grille will eventually receive two cowl-vents, but these will be installed later in the process, as their handles are very flimsy.

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The assembled engine room skylight

(I have to take some pictures in diffuse light with the DSLR – these iPhone close-up snaps under the bench-light emphasise all the imperfections …)

To be continued ....

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2021 2:34 pm 
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Very clever using the shellac as an adhesive. Drying time is a critical attribute in any situation, sometime right now is needed, other times not!

Cheers: Tom


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2021 2:45 pm 
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The main benefit is actually the tackiness - it grabs the wires fast, while you still can take off the tweezers. I tried with some liquid varnish, but due to its surface tension, the wires would simply sucked back onto the tweezers :mad_1: Shellac can be adjusted to any desired viscosity by adding more or less alcohol and can redisolved any time. It has been used as adhesive by watchmakers and jewellers for centuries, and of course as varnish by cabinet- and instrument-makers.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2021 3:56 pm 
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I used shellac many years ago for various wood projects, usually with cedar. Don't know if i have any right now, but maybe an excellent item where tackiness is needed to secure something small and light in place. Have you ever used this with rigging?

Cheers: Tom


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2021 4:30 pm 
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I haven't used it on rigging, as it is rather brittle and could lead to the breaking of threads. It could be certainly used to secure knots and the likes, as long as it does not seep into free-hanging threads. For this purpose I rather use zapon-varnish, which is more flexible and resilient.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2021 6:01 pm 
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Good work, don't shake your hands! :cool_2:

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•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2022 2:15 pm 
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Door-Knobs

I felt like doing some lathe-work, so I tackled the knobs for the various doors in the deckhouse and the back of the fore-castle. That is, I assume there were knobs and not handles. However, it is likely that they used knobs, as handles pose a higher risk of getting caught with some clothing or lines getting caught.

I turned these from brass nails. I like to use these as the process of stamping seems to work-harden the brass a bit. Otherwise, it seems to be difficult to get hard brass wires.

The target-diameter of the knobs was 0.4 mm, equivalent to 64 mm in real life. It took a number of tries before I had developed a tool-setting and protocol for turning them that allowed me to produce a reasonably uniform set of eight plus a few spares – they do like to jump off the tweezers when you try to insert them into the pre-drilled holes.

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Turning door-knobs: Step 1 – roughing-out the shape with a square tool

The turning proceeded in three steps, namely 1) roughing-out the shape with a square tool, 2) shaping the knob with the ball-turning tool, and 3) thinning out the shaft until it breaks off the stock by itself.

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Turning door-knobs: Step 2 – shaping the knob with the ball-turning tool

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Turning door-knobs: Step 2 – shaping the knob with the ball-turning tool (close-up)

The tool-bit in the micro-ball turning tool is a broken 0.4 mm drill, the end of which was ground to a cutting angle. It produces nice curling swarf.

While turning the knobs was easy, once the right settings had been found, inserting the knobs into the pre-drilled holes precipitated a lot of (mental) bad language …

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Example of door-knob in place (Grrr … this close-up show every speck of dust and all imperfections)

To be continued ,,,

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2022 4:09 pm 
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Whaou.. Tiny. :cool_2:

For dust, it is almost impossible to get rid of it completely before painting. I'm not talking about the static electricity of objects that attracts the slightest thread of clothing...

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•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2022 5:05 pm 
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Completing the skylights 2

Work on the skylights continued with the one over the pantry. The basic structure had been completed quite a while ago, including the protective grilles. Now, the upper part was painted in Vallejo ‘wood’ and then with a couple of coats of Vallejo ‘transparent mahogany’. Several thin coats of Vallejo ‘satin varnish’ gave the ‘wood’ some depth. The lower part was just painted white.
A chimney was turned from a piece of 2 mm brass rod and slotted at the top to simulate the vents. It was chemically blackened to simulate the appearance of heated metal painted black.

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The completed skylight – rear view

I only had side and plan views of the belfry and there is no photograph in which it is really visible. The bell of S.M.S. NATTER survived and is now in a museum-collection, so that we know what is looked like. I invented the shape of the belfry and drew it to be laser-cut. The parts were assembled in the usual manner using zapon-varnish. The bell was rough-turned on the watchmakers lathe and the actual ‘bell-shape’ finished with a hand-graver. I don’t really know, whether this is correct, but the belfry was painted white.
Finally some ‘hinges’ to the raising panels of the skylight were added in form of pieces of 0.1 mm wire.

Image
The completed skylight – front view


To be continued ....

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Eberhard

Former chairman Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau e.V. (German Association for Shipbuilding History)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2022 5:31 am 
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Wonderfully precise and detailed work! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Those parallel bars are pretty spectacular!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 1:45 pm 
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Thanks Marijn - more to come below:

**************************************

Completing the skylights 3

The skylight above the officers’ mess in the rear of the ship is the only one for which a close-up photograph exists, so the details can be reproduced with reasonable confidence:

Image
The skylight above the officers’ mess (Laverrenz)

The basic structure, again, had been built a long time ago and now it was painted as per prototype.
The top of the skylight was removable and presumably could be replaced with a more solid hatch-cover in bad weather – the main deck is only a couple of feet above the CWL ! The tarpaulin to cover the hatch would be held down with battens for which clamps were provided on all sides. The battens and the clamps are laser-cut from 0.2 mm Canson-paper and were then soaked in zapon-varnish to harden them. The battens were built up from two layers. Battens and clamps were assembled and then the assemblies cemented to the skylight using satin acrylic varnish.

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Painted skylight, battens and protective grille before assembly

As opposed to the others, this skylight has outside protective grilles, that are fastened with hinges. The frame had been etched from 0.1 mm thick nickel-silver (I couldn’t get brass sheet that thin at the time). Etched-in notches on the underside ensured that the bars would be equally spaced. The bars are made from 0.1 mm brass-coloured copper-wire glued in place with varnish. This assembly then was cemented to the skylight using acrylic varnish.

Image

Image

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The officers’ mess skylight ready to be fitted to the model

To be continued ....

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Former chairman Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau e.V. (German Association for Shipbuilding History)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 5:13 pm 
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Very nice tiny job! :thumbs_up_1:

The compas body is original ! :cool_2:

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•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2022 6:37 am 
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I am amazed with the incredible finesse of your details, Wefalck! Awesome... I have no better word for it.

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Even now I see the foreign flag a-raising, their guns on fire as we sail into hell"
Roger Whittaker +9/13/2023


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2022 2:04 pm 
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Thanks, gentlement :thumbs_up_1:

************************************

The Mast

These boats initially had a very simple one-piece mast for signalling purposes. At a later stage, a more complex version with a topgallant mast and cross-tree was installed to allow for a better spread of signal flags and the cones that indicated the rudder direction to facilitate flotilla manoeuvres. However, the model will be fitted with the simple mast only.

The mast itself was turned from a 1.5 mm steel-rod with a shoulder to accommodate the four shrouds and hangers for the signal halliard blocks. The information is rather scarce with only the earliest picture of S.M.S. WESPE showing the whole mast and the lithographs showing the lower part. The height had to be estimated from the photograph, while the lower diameter could be taken from the lithograph. The belaying pins for the signal halliards are set into a wooden shelf, rather than into the spider band. This wooden shelf was fashioned from a tiny piece of bakelite paper into which the appropriate holes were drilled before.

Belaying pins of 2 mm length and 0.2 diameter are a modelling challenge. A first attempt using lengths of wire and drops of white glue to represent the handles did not produce consistent and satisfactory result. Therefore, I decided to attempt to make them the ‘proper’ way, i.e. to turn them.

After a couple of failures (though the first two attempts went well), I arrived at a procedure that produced consistent results with a low failure rate. The key is to do the turning in small steps to minise cutting forces, having a sharp tool, set to just a tad below centre-height. The material used was 1 mm mild steel-rod because the brass I have available would have been far too soft for such tiny pieces. Although the belaying pins are a bit oversized for flag-halliards, making the pins was a bit of a proof of concept with my follow-on project in mind, where I will need quite a number of such small ones.

In a first step, the 1 mm diameter was reduced to 0.4 mm over a distance of 0.8 mm.

Image
1st step in turning micro-belaying pins: roughing out the handle

The handle then was shaped using a 1 mm mouse-tail and a tiny flat file:

Image
2nd step in turning micro-belaying pins: shaping the handle with files

Then the diameter below the handle was cautiously reduced to 0.2 mm. The first cut here is quite critical, as the square cutting tool cuts over its whole width of 0.4 mm.

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3rd step in turning micro-belaying pins: reducing the diameter of the shaft to 0.2 mm

In several 0.2 mm steps one then works towards the target length of 2 mm.

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Final step in turning micro-belaying pins: reducing the diameter of the shaft to 0.2 mm

When trying to reduce the diameter below 0.2 mm, the finished belaying pin usually shears of cleanly from the stock. The pins then were chemically blackened.

The mast was given a base-coat of Vallejo 71.033 Yellow Ochre, a wash of Schmincke 28610 Ochre, and a very light glazing of Vallejo 70.956 Clear Orange. Once the blackened belaying-pins had been inserted the whole assembly was given a light coat of a mixture of Vallejo satin and gloss varnish to make the mast resemble oiled wood. The shoulder, were the shrouds rest probably had been protected by a copper sheathing and this was imitated by paint.

Image
The finished mast

The shrouds were probably made from galvanized steel rope and need to be served in the area where they attach to the mast. I still have to work out a good way to imitate this in 1:160 scale and probably need to build the serving machine first that I had planned to make for a long time.

To be continued ....

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Former chairman Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau e.V. (German Association for Shipbuilding History)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2022 2:15 pm 
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Now THAT is fine work! :worship_1: :worship_1: :worship_1:


Did you turn the mast on the lathe too, or in a drill (maybe finishing the base and the shoulder in the lathe?)?


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