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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2015 4:31 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:28 am
Posts: 556
Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Be careful when working with epoxy to have enough height left between your subject and the workspace because you'll otherwise need to cut the boat loose...
Image
I removed the molds which turned out to take quite a bit of force and discipline to not reshape the glass.
Image
While sanding the first time I found that the molds on which the boat was laying whilst sanding where nicely dancing along making my decide to remove the waste material so I started measuring and drawing on the hull.
This photo is mostly about the blue and black lines at the end of the wood going up to the highest deck.
The wood should have stopped at the edge of the black line, opposite to the blue line but it is clearly visible it does not so.
Fortunately this can easily be overcome by removing the wood and the glass here but the glass was meand to be used for the plate which extends behind the transverse bulkhead which is the rear closing bulkhead of the superstructure here.
There's still plenty to learn for me clearly.
Image
I just mentioned the solution to the poor measuring was easy but here one can see there is a bit more to it.
Fortunately there is still quite a bit of superstructure further inboard so I won't need to cut the wood to pieces all that much here.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2015 10:16 am 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Shaped the bulwarks on the bow.
Image
Adjusted the bulwarks to the correct height.
Image
Filled the hull with the equipment that will be put into the hull.
There's still plenty to be done on the hull.
Image
The bulwark is clearly lower then on the previous hull but it was too high there anyway.
Image
Had to cut the wood away here, as there was too much here but this way I was able to fix it anyway.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:33 pm 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Hey guys,

Lately I haven't been doing much work on my boat, been away for quite some time and got myself a new job.
After thinking the sanding through a bit more (the rear bulwarks are bending way too much to my taste) I decided to add 2 9mm plywood plates as supports to the frames so that if the hull is turned upsite down for sanding the hull is resting on these added supports rather then on the rear bulwarks.
Today I found the time to sand the hull again, it appears to be a slow process but if you clean the sanding paper regularly it turns out to go quite well actually.
Today I reached the point where about 60% of the hull has a matt look indicating it is pretty much level but it still is higher then the gloss surfaces so I'll need to sand quite a bit more.
I'll try to keep sanding once every week but my schedule is changing all the time lately.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 10:19 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:28 am
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
After having sanded the hull with 60grit sanding paper (which sands real fast!!) the bow is now almost smooth, still enough filling and sanding to do but I'm starting to get there.
Today I've decided to do something else on my boat for once, being the anchor pockets.
Here I have drawn the lines for the inside of the pockets.
Image
Making the sides all precisely the same size and shape.
Image
Made the closing parts a bit oversized to have room for errors and used a line to indicate where the parts need to be placed.
Image
Make sure that the parts are glued together straight.
Image
Drilled the 2 topplates in 1 go so the holes are in the exact same place.
Here the first pocket is already finished and the parts for the second pocket are ready for assembly.
Image
Checked the dimensions and they turned out to be a perfect match with what was drawn on the hull, the lines on the hull represent the inside of the pockets.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 10:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:28 am
Posts: 556
Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
After having sanded the hull with 60grit sanding paper (which sands real fast!!) the bow is now almost smooth, still enough filling and sanding to do but I'm starting to get there.
Today I've decided to do something else on my boat for once, being the anchor pockets.
Here I have drawn the lines for the inside of the pockets.
Image
Making the sides all precisely the same size and shape.
Image
Made the closing parts a bit oversized to have room for errors and used a line to indicate where the parts need to be placed.
Image
Make sure that the parts are glued together straight.
Image
Drilled the 2 topplates in 1 go so the holes are in the exact same place.
Here the first pocket is already finished and the parts for the second pocket are ready for assembly.
Image
Checked the dimensions and they turned out to be a perfect match with what was drawn on the hull, the lines on the hull represent the inside of the pockets.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:28 am
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Last monday I ordered all the needed propellers for this model and they arrived today.
Here I have the main propellers held about where they'll hang under the ship when the thrusters (for which I will order the parts including 2 very nice nozzles) are finished.
These propellers look much better and are a much closer match to the propellers on the real ship then what Graupner supplied with the thrusters which I used on the previous attempt.
Image
These are the bowthruster propellers which fit very nicely in the tube I had prepared for the tunnels.
One of the stern thrusters is placed in the shot for reference.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:07 pm 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Hey guys,

Last weeks I'm trying to get to sanding the hull more and more, all be it half an hour a day, that will get me there eventually.
Last week I did my sprinkler exam as I'm designing sprinkler installations nowadays, but now that I've done my exam I don't need to study anymore which leaves more time for modelling.
The process takes quite some time but then this ain't quite a normal size modelling project.
I'll get there eventually.
Anyways I got something to show again though still not really much,
Image
I'd just added some more filler to the bottom and side of the hull when I discovered a crack in the hull where the planking stops and the fibreglass bulwark starts so I decided to add a sheet of plastic to the bulwark but in such a manor that the filler will get time to cure properly so I put her on her stern against my pillar drill.
Image
Added a piece of 1,5mm thick styrene to strengthen the bulwark.
Image
The bow is nearing a smooth result but I'm far from happy still, though the real roughness is gone I still don't have a nice smooth line from the side of the hull to the centreline at the bow, it's kinda wobbly.
The bottom is now also starting to get there but also has quite some work to do there, especially at the stern.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 8:13 pm 
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Looks cool, ever think about adding cameras to her for exploration? You could fit tons of gear in such a big hull. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 2:54 pm 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Hi Funky,

There will be at least 1, maybe even 4 spy-size camera's in the wheelhouse, 1 in each of the 2 ROV's and 1 in the cranehouse. There will be tons of electronics inside the hull:
Image
Photo from one of my earlier posts, though this is only the tiny bit of stuff I already have laying around.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:28 am
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Painted the hull with primer to see the im perfections better (which turned out to be many more then I thought) and drew the lines for the anchor pockets.
Image
Drilled the hole for the first bowthruster after drilling alignment holes using a 30cm long drill.
Image
Drew the alignment holes for both bowthrusters and placed 1 of the propellers in the hole which still needs to be made to fit the tube in it.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:28 am
Posts: 556
Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Today I finished drilling the second hole for the front most bowthruster due to which I was now able to put the tube in place temporarily to see if the alignment is good and fortunately it's pretty much spot on, only 1mm off in height and perfectly spot on in the transverse direction.
All in all I'm very pleased with the result though I'll keep trying better on the next tunnel.

In the foreground are the parts for the bowthrusters which will be used later on.
The timing belts I ordered at first turned out not to fit on the discs and were send back to be replaced by the belts visible in this photo which are the correct size.

Image
This side of the hull is not quite as smooth as the other parts of the hull which made me decide not to paint this side yet.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 7:03 am 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Thought I'd share some thoughts on my next challenge: making both end caps for the copper T's, which are to house the bowthrusters gearbox, to close them.
In 1 of the end caps will off course be a hole so the propeller shaft kan pass through.
Here are the options I have in mind:
  • Make a wooden mold and shape a brass plate over it
  • Make a wooden mold and dip it in a silicon bath to make an epoxy version out of it
  • Make a wooden part and apply plenty of epoxy to the wood to make it watertight
The last option is not quite preferable since the end cap through which the propeller shaft passes through will need to be very carefully painted with epoxy to make sure the wood doesn't get wet, this is made even more difficult because I want the gears inside the copper T to be lubricated by means of water meaning the water will need to be able to get in through the propshaft hole.
Option 2 with the plastic version seems to be the best, which has another advantage: I can then use the molds to also make copies of the parts for the thrusters at the rear which are to be build with the same parts only a different propeller fitted to the shaft and a kort nozzle rather then being mounted in a tunnel.
Plastic seems to be the best material for the purpose, I want to secure the caps by means of a tiny little screw so I can always get them out for maintaince.
The brass option will be quite challenging for me since I haven't yet shaped brass that way before.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:50 pm 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Hey guys,

Lately my mind has been somewhat focused on the controls of this vessel, which won't be by ordinary means but rather by means of a combination of 2 types of small computers, each communicating with each other making the best use of the specialities each has.
Because I don't want to multiplex functions (in other words: control several functions with the same switch) I first came up with building an entire desk which would accommodate a 7" tablet and a fortune worth switches and self made control sticks.
At some point I realised the desk (large enough to actually sit behind it) was way to bulky and would make transportation very difficult.
Then I decided to make myself a more normal sized radio to make it much easier in handling and carrying around.
Yesterday I made up my mind about the size, the base plate using some 13 to 15 joysticks would a A4 paper size, 29cm wide and 21cm deep which turns out to be about the size of 2 4-channel radios like the one I used at the start of this project.
The first 2 joysticks have been ordered and I used them to make an impression as to which joystick would be placed where and controlling which function.
The next design feature is the 7" touch screen which will be connected to the raspberry Pi computer inside the transmitter which will send video to the screen using a simple HDMI cable, the touch being transformed by the screen itself to act as a normal mouse.
The Pi will be equipped with software like what I've already written for testing the laptop control which worked to some degree at some point but was dropped due to problems and the fact that laptops don't handle rain well and are prone to be stolen.

Anyway, the reason for this post is the picture below:
Image
The first 2 plates have been made and fitted with holes to accommodate and attach the first 2 joysticks and the 7" touchscreen.
The joysticks will have a plate on top of the wooden plate to conceal the electronics and to try and keep the water out, for that I will make an extra edge under the stick itself.
The plates will be screwed in place with the screws holding the electronics below.
Now I need to make 11 to 13 more sets of holes, the sides and bottom plate, a hatch for the 2 batteries (I will put 2 5V Ly-Ion batteries in there to compensate the weight of the screen, it's a little under a quarter of the calculated total weight of the transmitter and is fitted topside so I need the total battery weight to make it more balanced).
For added balance and to not make my arms carry the weight of this thing all day long (it will weigh in a little over a kilo, not quite light weight) by adding a camera neck-strap to the sides of the transmitter.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 1:29 pm 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Started building my new radio because the first self build radio was waaay to big.
This is A4 size (29,5cm wide, 21cm deep) and will weigh about a kilo, a quarter of that weight is for the touchscreen, another quarter by a total of 4 3,7V 4A LiPo batteries which we be wired up such that they will give 7,4V 8A total.
This will give a running time of about 6-7 hours.
Image
Here the 7" touchscreen can clearly be seen along with the first 2 out of 13 joysticks.
The is now also a fuse box which will house a 1,5A fuse.
Image
Started work on the gearbox for the first bowthruster, it already starts to look like something.
Here I'm determining where the horizontal gear should be positioned.
Image
The full assembly line except for the engine.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 5:45 am 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Here's an update again.
Image
After having sanded the ends of the bowthruster tunnels down to the hull plating and some more sanding on the hull I decided it was very much time for a fresh layer of primer to make the remaining imperfections more visible.
Image
Here it is clearly visible that the bowthruster tunnels are not positioned at the same height as is true for the real ship as well.
The shape has came out way better then the previous version, so I'm very happy about it.
Still lots of sanding to do though.
Image

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 5:19 am 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Hey guys,

Had quite a few busy months including 3 weeks holiday in Italy with my fiance now, I asked here to marry me in Italy at Lake Como.
In between all activities I did find some time here and there to work on Well Enhancer though not enough to place an update here, but here finally is an update again.
For my birthday I got a new Dremel (the corded Dremel 3000) from my parents, which is funny because 8 years ago I also got a Dremel (the cordless Stylus) for my birthday, also from my parents, but the battery of that Dremel has died about a year ago.
Any how, here is the update:
Image
Here the first Tee for the bowthruster is getting more shape, I used my fathers Dremel (this was about a week or so ago) to remove any unneeded material for a nice and smooth transition.
Image
This is the bowthruster assembly.
The captain gives an indication of the sheer size of the bowthruster propeller, it's the size of an adult...
Image
Close up of the bowthruster assembly.
Image

Image
Some thoughts on the electronics and the deck.
The forward bulwark is a little low so I decided to make the deck as thin as possible so I don't need to raise the bulwark as much anymore.
Off course that will influence the thickness of the other decks as well because otherwise heights between the different decks get's out of perspective but that won't be a problem.
Image
The main computer with all Arduino's hooked up.
After giving some more thoughts to ballast placement, the location of the central computer and the pumps I decided it would be best to devide the weight of the middle ballast pack among the other 2 packs to make room for the fire water pumps.
Image
The transmitter, now with a 10400mAh powerbank and 3 analogue to digital converters to translate the analogue signals from the joysticks to a digital signal which the Raspberry Pi will understand.
There now also is a power button with light in it.
Image
The arrangement of all drive parts in the stern.
Image

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 12:49 pm 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image

Image

Image
I screwed the central computer in place, added 2 panels to make it a box and screwed the Pi and Arduino in place.
Image
Gave the ESC, rear Arduino and stepper motor drivers a proper place.
Image
Looking top down.
I also added some cable management.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 9:52 am 
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Nice work!

May I ask how much epoxy you used on the initial fiberglass layer?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:30 am 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Hello HOscalemodeler,

I don't know the exact amount anymore, always make sure you have a bit more then needed, otherwise wasting just a bit will require you make more...
I think it was about 400 grams resin and 200 grams harder, but I'm not sure at all.

Greetings Josse

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 9:32 am 
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Location: Near Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Update:
Image
Bit of trial and error engineering but works quite well actually.
I wanted to check for room for possible faster stepper motors but those I found are far less accurate so I need to think it through.
Image
Put the different options alongside each other for reference.
Image
Today I hooked both teh 2 ESC's and the stepper motors up to the rear Arduino and to there own power supply running 2 sets of wire to the central computer to be hooked up there.
I connected the battery to the system to see if the lights would go on, indicating proper power connections.
Turned out to be working fine, now I need a program so I can control things.
Image
In the bottom of this photo one can see the temporary connection of the power to the rear and the UBEC (the universal version of the BEC on ESC's).
Image
I also started working on the cover for the central computer housing a LCD screen with 2 rows of 16 characters (screen will show messages like "computer powered up" or malfunctions of any kind), a hole to put the main antenna through and I started working on a fuse design.
The Pi and Arduino's will have a 7,5A group which is more then enough for this application.
The main engines will share 1 10A group which is enough for 1 blocking engine.
The bowthrusters will share 1 10A group.
There will be 2 more 7,5A groups for all other equipment, including the 2 steering stepper motors.

Greetings Josse

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