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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 1:14 pm 
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Thanks Dave - I look forward to watch your progress on your vessel! :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:51 pm 
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Hi,

an update of this weekend´s work... :wave_1:


Attachments:
File comment: Hull openings for the sea valves in the aft hull.
Ventile_01.JPG
Ventile_01.JPG [ 64.53 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
File comment: Ship builder at work: fine tuning with echappement files.
Ventile_02.JPG
Ventile_02.JPG [ 79.94 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
File comment: Sea valves in front of the bilge keel.
Ventile_03.JPG
Ventile_03.JPG [ 49.91 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
File comment: Sea valves in front of the bilge keel.
Ventile_04.JPG
Ventile_04.JPG [ 39.69 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
File comment: Sea valves behind the bilge keel.
Ventile_05.JPG
Ventile_05.JPG [ 39.4 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
File comment: Hull bottom details
Ventile_06.JPG
Ventile_06.JPG [ 74.43 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
File comment: Hull bottom details
Ventile_07.JPG
Ventile_07.JPG [ 78.31 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:48 pm 
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Hi,

first dry fitting of the covers of the sea boxes for the sea valves (has anyone the correct english technical terms available, please?!) representing the closed setting. Both small and large ones.

Bye for now,

Bernd.


Attachments:
Ventil_small_01.JPG
Ventil_small_01.JPG [ 44.5 KiB | Viewed 3472 times ]
Ventil_large_01.JPG
Ventil_large_01.JPG [ 67.56 KiB | Viewed 3472 times ]
Ventil_large_02.JPG
Ventil_large_02.JPG [ 55.4 KiB | Viewed 3472 times ]

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Last edited by 109 on Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:10 pm 
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Location: Brasil
hi Bernd
this exceptional work on hull is admirable
good effort and good quality ship modelling....
superb :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:16 pm 
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Hi Norbert!

Thanks - when will you start your hull, please?

Bye for now! :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:22 pm 
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Location: Brasil
Hi Bernd
i was pretending start next month but
i have one or two theets with a periodontal trouble. maibe i need make a small cirurgy
but before i am doing a treatment to try solve it and is very expensive.
i finally found a good quality wood to make my planking work.
but now i need wait a few more...
parallel it i am building the superestructure cause i have much polistyrene(is a cheap material here).
i have new pictures of some parts i am doing and another things..
soon i post it.
i wait my hull stay good as you doing. fantastic work Bernd :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:26 pm 
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Good luck at the dentist - had to see one 2 weeks ago... :heh:

Good night from Europe,

Bernd. :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:36 pm 
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Thank you Bernd...
good night(here is nearing to the night too) from Brasil :smallsmile:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 4:16 pm 
...


Last edited by ingura on Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:57 am 
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Hi ingura,

thanks for the english terms - couldn´t find Seekasten ... :-) Which dictionary did you use, please?

Ich hoffe, dass ich überhaupt damit fertig werde... schließlich will ich noch die Gneisenau mal bauen ... :D

Freund von mir hat die von der Tann im Auge von MZM - taugt die was?

Grüsse,

Bernd.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 4:00 am 
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Added a picture of an insert for the sea valve chest.

Bye! :wave_1:


Attachments:
File comment: Insert for a large sea valve chest (4,5 x 4,5 mm)
insert_valve-01.JPG
insert_valve-01.JPG [ 40.54 KiB | Viewed 3431 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:58 am 
...


Last edited by ingura on Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:39 am 
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Thanks again ingura! Good things last for a life time and are thus worth their money ...

MZM: ok, er will den bausatz als basis nehmen und einiges selbst bauen. Soll ein RC-Modell werden das nach 2 oder 3 Jahren dann auch schwimmen soll.

Bye!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:35 am 
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Location: Corvallis, Oregon, USA
In US Navy ships hull openings below the waterline are referred to as "sea chests." I have no idea how that term originated, or how far back it has been in use.

I am not familiar with WWII German ship construction so I find the level of detail you are working on to be very interesting. US Navy seachest openings did not have valves flush with the hull plating. Intakes had some form of screen or grill to keep fish and sea animals out. Larger discharge seachests also had grills or screens, but smaller discharges were just open to the sea. The grills or screens were "portable" and could be removed to allow access by divers or when in drydock.

The actual valves to control water flow were inside the hull, often inside the inner bottom (double bottom). Seachests near the engineering spaces were fitted with steam fittings to allow the pipes to be cleared of debris and marine growth.

Phil

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:26 pm 
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Hi Phil,

thanks for that info on US ship building details. Basically, German sea valves worked similar to what you describe:

Following info from text source: What you see on my Bismarck are the closed covers for the sea chests - in German called Wasserfänger, literally water catcher, those were to be opened by a threaded push rod against the ship´s direction of travelling (I guess only forward) while traveling up to 12-15 kn. So, they impound water for the sea valves in the chest. Beneath them there must have been a grill and at the bottom of the chest was the acutal opening for the valve.

I have a drawing but only one view (seen from the stern). Not enough for a complete reconstruction of the open setting of this kind of sea chests.

How is your project coming along?

Bye now,

Bernd.

PS: Hope the link will work: in the right you´ll see 2 closed sea chests:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CbwnjooteyI/S ... 0-h/66.jpg

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:33 am 
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Hi,

need to see something different from sea valves et al.

The Taylor bow needs some attention: to protect it from being hit by the falling anchor the shell plates B22, F17 and G19 were of a greater thickness (26 mm) than the surrounding "normal" plates. These 26mm-plates received a beveled edge against the thinner plating.


Attachments:
File comment: Using a template of plate A22 (flat keel) to mark the lower edge of B22.
Taylor_01.JPG
Taylor_01.JPG [ 58.08 KiB | Viewed 3356 times ]
File comment: Using a template of plate B22 to mark the leading edge of it. There are slight differences between Bismarck and Tirpitz (photo) at the front face of the Taylor bow in shell plating.
Taylor_02.JPG
Taylor_02.JPG [ 33.67 KiB | Viewed 3356 times ]
File comment: Dry fitting of the styrene stripes with a sanded bevel.
Taylor_03.JPG
Taylor_03.JPG [ 37.75 KiB | Viewed 3356 times ]
File comment: Dry fitting of the styrene stripes with a sanded bevel.
Taylor_04.JPG
Taylor_04.JPG [ 48.68 KiB | Viewed 3356 times ]
File comment: Dry fitting of the styrene stripes with a sanded bevel.
Taylor_05.JPG
Taylor_05.JPG [ 25.8 KiB | Viewed 3356 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:13 am 
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Bernd,

I appreciate your attention to detail. I am watching with interest to see how you implement the hull plating. That is next up on my Oklahoma City.

Phil

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:23 am 
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Hi Bernd
wonderfull details on hull.
i like the method you using to do it.
great skilling
p.s. do you do your hull from fiberglass?? or wood? in some pictures appear what i think fiberglass
:thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:36 pm 
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Final progress of today


Attachments:
File comment: Glued upper and trailing stripe (0,15 mm styrene with bevel) onto the hull using CA.
Taylor_06.JPG
Taylor_06.JPG [ 35.9 KiB | Viewed 3311 times ]
File comment: Upper edge.
Taylor_07.JPG
Taylor_07.JPG [ 33.65 KiB | Viewed 3311 times ]
File comment: Fish perspective: it´s rewarding to work precisely - trailing edge at frame 226.8 lies next to the sea valve - just where it should be! :-)
Taylor_08.JPG
Taylor_08.JPG [ 59.66 KiB | Viewed 3311 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:46 pm 
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DrPR wrote:
Bernd,

I appreciate your attention to detail. I am watching with interest to see how you implement the hull plating. That is next up on my Oklahoma City.

Phil


Hi Phil,

most of the plating had little differences in thickness. So, I guess I will do those plates with a "large" difference in thickness to their adjacent plates by masking them off and applying one or two coats of primer before final airbrushing. Minimum plate thickness is 12 mm, max. 22 mm. The rules goes that a plate run of thick plates will be accompanied by plates of intermediate thickness and those finally by thin plates, e.g. 22 mm -> 16 mm -> 12 mm and not 22 mm -> 12 mm.

What´s the plate thicknesses used on OC; please?

Bye :wave_1:

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