1/144 Kiev by Dave Wooley

[russclark]

very nice detail work dave,i like the way you pin and glue things together,most of us(me)would just glue it .i have a habit of looking for somthing that will work for small parts before building it,most of the time it comes out not right,and i have to build it anyway.nice job

[roy allen]

tidily bits my favourite yum yum and as ever superb workmanship

Roy

[GTDEATH13]

How are you going to build the liferafts?? Will you make each one separately? Or will there be a master and some casting involved?


P.S. I intentionally left out the gasps and mouth open and drewelling and all assorted expressions of admiration....

[Edward Pinniger]

Looking great as usual! The sheer number of small details and components looks intimidating - scratchbuilding in a large scale really makes you realise how complex ships are, even and a modern aircraft carrier is about as complex as you can get.

One question, what's the R/C modeller's glue you mention? Currently I use CA for gluing wood to plastic, I've found wood glue (e.g Evo-Stik) just doesn't bond to plastic or metal very well.

[Dave Wooley]

How are you going to build the liferafts?? Will you make each one separately? Or will there be a master and some casting involved?


P.S. I intentionally left out the gasps and mouth open and drewelling and all assorted expressions of admiration....

Each of the life raft were made from a master , save going garr garr . Thanks for you kind comments .
Dave Wooley

[Dave Wooley]

Looking great as usual! The sheer number of small details and components looks intimidating - scratchbuilding in a large scale really makes you realise how complex ships are, even and a modern aircraft carrier is about as complex as you can get.

One question, what's the R/C modeller's glue you mention? Currently I use CA for gluing wood to plastic, I've found wood glue (e.g Evo-Stik) just doesn't bond to plastic or metal very well.

Hi Edward I've been using Modeller's glue for some years , it has limitations but it has stood the test of time were styrene is used. This is the container it comes in if your on the hunt for one or two bottles. More than lightly you may well find it in a hobby store that specializes in R/C aircraft.

Dave Wooley

[Dave Wooley]

The aerial platform and the base for the whip aerial.

The piston support arm and the aerial support fitted on to the platform .

The assembly is then re-fitted to the edge of the deck .

Here the aerial wire is slotted into the brass tube support but not fixed.

Three of the aerial mounting with each whip aerial temporarily fitted.

More to follow
Dave Wooley

[Jose Chaica]

Outstanding work !!!!
BTW, you´re making things easier for me, you know that ? Whenever I decide to build my 1/72 Kiev, you´ll have made my life easier, with all these photos, and step-by-step...I´ll just have to enlarge them to 1/72.

.

[Dave Wooley]

Outstanding work !!!!
BTW, you´re making things easier for me, you know that ? Whenever I decide to build my 1/72 Kiev, you´ll have made my life easier, with all these photos, and step-by-step...I´ll just have to enlarge them to 1/72.

.

Hi Jose your very welcome
Dave Wooley

[Dave Wooley]

Beneath the walkways are a series of angled supports .
These are measured to fit and cut to size .


Each one is fitted to the undersideof the walkway .

Next the sides, formed from a styrene veneer is prepared by marking out
the vents and port holes. The rational for this method will become clearer
as we proceed but in order to gain the effect of a flush vent cover and
one that is also removable for painting { different shade of grey}then a simple
“veneer” was the answer.

Each vent and port opening in the veneer is carefully cut to size.

The vent covers are cut to size making sure they are an accurate fit.

Vent covers in place

The styrene veneer strip is temporarily offered into place .

Once it’s been determined that the veneers fits the strip can be set into
position using the trusted R/C modelers glue.

Each off the vent covers are temporarily re-fitted.

Next time the hand rails.
Dave Wooley

[J. Soca]

Workmanship at its best keep it up Dave



Jose

[ozpirate]

Dave wrote: Next time the hand rails.
Now this is getting to what I need to know. How do you plan to make rails for your superstructure? The hull shouldn't be to much of a problem but around the island might be. I look forward to your solution.

[Dave Wooley]

Dave wrote: Next time the hand rails.
Now this is getting to what I need to know. How do you plan to make rails for your superstructure? The hull shouldn't be to much of a problem but around the island might be. I look forward to your solution.

Hi Mick good to hear from you . The rails on the supperstructure are fitted but the rails I make mention of are slightly different. and surround the life rafts { port only } .
Dave Wooley

[Mike Reading]

Hi Dave, long time since we've been in touch, trust all well with you.

Good reading the challenges you've met with Kiev and more especially how you have got over them and building a splendid model.

I'm still model ship building - been working on a 1:600 scale USS Missouri - BB63 these last ten years and hopefully another couple should see it finished. Must think about a less complex ship for my next model.

Regards
Michael

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Micheal Good to hear from you . Its been a long time . Kiev is one of those models that seems to take for ever, but I'm getting there.
Dave Wooley

[Sean Hert]

Dave-

When using the razor-bladed "chopper" to make parts, how do you avoid having a scalloped or beveled edge on the cut side? I can never seem to get my Chopper to chop nicely.

[Mike Reading]

My chopping axe like yours has bevelled edges - pardon the mirth - I actually use Swann Morton scalpels. Yes the bevel at the cut edge can be a nuisance. Depends upon the part how I overcome it, but boils down to one of two.

Where I can make the cut against a steel ruler/the like, then I tend to make the first cut near that edge, then a second cut against it, and often a third cut also against that edge but with the blade turned at an angle to bring its bevelled edge vertical. That seems to work.

In other cases, once having made the cut through, I then bring the edge "square" by sanding it vertically across a sanding board laid flat/horizontal.

Dare say I'm telling granny how to suck eggs. Sorry if I have. If not though hope it helps.

Michael

[Dave Wooley]

Dave-

.

Hi Sean That's a good question and one I haven't thought about . Surprisingly there's little or no problem from beveled edges using the gilloteen you see in the photo But then the material is only 10thou . When cutting with a modelling knife I very rarely "cut" but mark and split each part using a spot of mild pressure from the thumbs. This reduces the scalloped ends you have on the material that is cut "deep"
Dave Wooley

[Dave Wooley]

With the veneer in place work could begin on preparing the rails that
surround the life raft chutes.

A section of PE that will form the 7 bar rails as fitted to Kiev .

The simple expedient of a steel ruler for bending the top two rails forward.


Each section of rail cut to length and fitted into place


Dave Wooley

[gtb -red]

Man,do really want to build a 1:144 Supercarrier? No words!