The Ship Model Forum

Lloyd,
Sorry this R07 is Water protector and I edited page1 pdf file.

And following shows the Water protector photos.
You can also watch the Waterways on the edge of deck.


Thank you
Keumho Kim

_________________

Keumho Kim of Pontosmodel
help@pontosmodel.com
http://pontosmodel.com
Shop: http://hobbydecal.com

R07 is the breakwater.

Whoops Kim beat me to it. And thank you for the pictures Kim, that helps!

_________________
My personal modeling site: http://keldq.webs.com/

Hello Kim,

Not sure if this question has been put forward or not...

Are you or do you have plans to do a conversion set for the modern Missouri in the near future?

_________________
Gerry

Currently we have no plan to convert this WWII base kit and release to any other era version.
I am sure to waiting these era kits from Trumpeter is faster way.
At this case, we surely do detail sets for these kits.
But unformally, I am thinking to make some deck parts as Vietnam NJ version or others for who eager to convert to these.

Thank you
Kim

_________________

Keumho Kim of Pontosmodel
help@pontosmodel.com
http://pontosmodel.com
Shop: http://hobbydecal.com

Kim,



That would certainly be a helpful item to have available. Any sort of time frame on this actually happening? (NEW JERSEY - 1967-69 Vietnam Era)

Thanks,

Hank

_________________
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48

Kim (or anyone on the Forum):

A new question - Sheet #17 of the PE Set is gray (or silver) and includes part #881 the same as part #882 on one of the brass sheets. So, why are there two anchor chain deck plates in the set? Does the gray/silver go over[b][/b] the brass part or am I totally confused? You also have called out on the Instruction Sheet that part #881 is the Forward Bow Deck Plate. So, this doesn't equate with the above numbered gray part on Sheet #17.

Thanks for any help you can lend.

Hank

_________________
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48

After Advanced set,I will start to draw and modify some other eras from maninly based on original WWII deck.
So if possible please let me know what should be removed or added from WWII deck.



Right side parts of on the #18 Stainless fret are duplicated with Brass frets.
We did these as half etched area tend to be bent on the brass frets. But these are almost flat and straight on the stainless fret.
So you can use one of them in Brass or Stainless.

Thank you
Kim

_________________

Keumho Kim of Pontosmodel
help@pontosmodel.com
http://pontosmodel.com
Shop: http://hobbydecal.com

Kim,

Thanks for the reply to both comments/question.

I'll make a copy of your deck instruction sheets and mark up what needs to be eliminated for the Vietnam Era NEW JERSEY and send you a PM with it attached. Might be a couple weeks or so to do this.

I'll make a note regarding the parts for the forward deck plating.

Thanks,

Hank

_________________
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48

Will this still happen in January or will it happen later or will it happen at all? I would hate to wait just to find out that nothing will happen at all ....

Dietrich

_________________
Books from Collectors for Collectors
www.ironcross1939.com

Kim

Any word or even some pictures of the 40mm resin mounts for the advanced set and will there be any resin 20mm's? I shudder at even starting the 20mm mounts as I'm already going cross-eyed from the 40mm.

Also how long does it take to install 540 railing stanchions?

Lloyd

Kim

Found some little errors on the drill guides.

Please be aware that drill guides 455 and 456 are marked for port and starboard of kit part B2 but they actually fit backwards on kit part B1, ie port fits starboard and vice versa. The instructions don't show where 456 goes but it's at both sides of the rear of part B1. Drill guide 521 is correct for kit part B2 but appears to be labeled backwards also..

The guides for the rear main director tower are also labeled backwards but it's easy to see the front fits the back, etc.

Is the anchor chain way under scale and is there a corrected chain coming in the advanced set along with maybe some clamps (can't think of the name) to rig the main anchor chain to the nine tie downs on the fore deck?
That way the under scale chain could be rigged thru the two turned brass #24 capstans and the 907 built up capstan and down thru the deck at the 906 capstan to represent the chain that hangs down from the center hawsehole in the bow. (paravane chain maybe??)

Has anyone got any ideas how to fade the blue deck a bit as I find it just a little too blue? Tried a gray wash on some spare pieces but that didn't work out.

Lloyd

It seems Mr. Kim has disappeared! Questions, questions, questions, ... and no answers!

_________________
Books from Collectors for Collectors
www.ironcross1939.com

He's probably busy trying to make his Bismarck January deadline he previously stated multiple times.

If this is indeed the case, I'm fine with him not babysitting forums answering if he's going to make the January deadline or not, and devoting that time to getting the job done

February is less that two weeks away

I am waiting for the USS Missouri Advanced Set. I gave up on the Advanced Bismarck set long time ago and built it with the regular set (which really is sufficient IMHO). But can never have enough PE!

Dietrich

_________________
Books from Collectors for Collectors
www.ironcross1939.com

Kim,
I have a couple of suggestions for the advanced set. My suggestions are some resin draped firehoses to replace the overly-flat and ill-defined firehoses molded into the sides of the USS Missouri deckhouses. Secondly, how about some cast brass screws? Both these things would be appreciated!
Bill M.

I will show something at this week.
Resin Firehoses and Metal Screw will be added at Advanced set.

Thank you
Kim

_________________

Keumho Kim of Pontosmodel
help@pontosmodel.com
http://pontosmodel.com
Shop: http://hobbydecal.com

That's great! I'll look forward to the pictures next week. Thanks!
Bill M.

do the waterways go on top of the teak deck or along side it?

Lapausky -

Waterways are to the outside of the deck. They are underneath the lifelines and the chocks are welded IN the waterways. See the last photo posted that shows the breakwater. You should see the waterways on the outside edge of the deck. On the real ship it is a narrow strip of metal that extends from the inside edge of the hull (which has a rounded upper lip) to the outside of the decking. The waterway has a vertical strip of metal that is welded to the waterway and forms an outer edge for the decking to fit against. Picture the letter "L" turned 90 deg. upward.

Hope this helps,

Hank

_________________
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48

Thank you.
I have been on the USS New Jersey. and have see the waterways close up.I was unsure on the model as I didn't want to "test fit" the deck.i would upload some photos but the webpage will not let me, they are to big.