Anchor Chain FactsAnchor chain is very prominent on the foredecks of many ships, but especially so on battleships... it pays to get it right!
First and before the other thread gets lost, see my latest try at the correct sized chain for 1:200 BB's at:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=155715>> This chain is built at 15 links per inch (LPI).
Fact 1:
Yes, all anchor chain is "stud link". I used to think the stud somehow added strength, but no, it's there to prevent chain kinking or tangling. This in turn assures free running through hawse pipes, chain pipes (down to the chain locker), and over the anchor windlass's "wildcat" (the sprocket-like drum that the chain runs over).
Fact 2:
Chain is sized by its "wire diameter" (the thickness of a wire bent into link form), even if the links are forged or assembled from forgings.
Anchor chain links have a fairly standard form, a somewhat longish oval, with overall length = 6x wire diameter.
Iowa class uses 3-1/2" chain, with individual links being 21" long.
Fact 3:
Pitch is 4x wire diameter, so 14" per link along the length of an assembled Iowa chain... or .070" per link in 1:200, or 14.28 links per inch (I settled on ~15 LPI for my model chain).
Fact 4:
Anchor chains are assembled from 15 fathom (90 foot) "shots", using special removable joiner links. You won't see the difference in the links in 1:200, but the joints are painted so that you can see how many shots have run out as the chain whizzes by.
At one shot: Joiner is red, with one white link either side.
At two shots, Joiner is white, + 2 white links either side.
At three shots, Joiner is blue, with 3 white links either side.
Etc.
Usually expect 10 shots in an anchor chain. The 2nd to last shot is painted all yellow... you see it whiz by, say "aw sh1t!". The last shot is painted all red. You see red whizzing by, "run or you're dead!"
Fact 5:
At the anchor end, a variable length "swivel shot" starts the chain. The swivel shot includes a swivel joint (just like in a fishing line), a couple special links for joining to the anchor's shackle, and some number of links to connect to the first full shot... probably determined by where someone wants the swivel to sit on the foredeck.
No color code that I'm aware of for this connection.
Fact 6:
On an Iowa, the swivel shot is long enough that it and the first shot only shows on deck, with anchor weighed.. so none of the colored coded joiners will show.
But Missouri in Tokyo Bay? It's usual to put out a lead of 7x water depth when anchoring. If the anchorage is 15 fathoms/90 feet, then 7 shots of chain should be out, and a color code may well be visible on deck.
Fact 7:
You don't count on the anchor windlass to hold your chain.
Most ships have some sort of chain stopper- a ratchet-like pawl to check the chain, somewhere on the foredeck. Additionally, the anchor and chain are secured with short lengths of chain attached to the deck... three or four per chain on an Iowa. These chains are hooked onto the anchor chain with "pelican hooks", and then snugged up to take the anchor's weight with turnbuckles and some BIG wrenches.
>>> I am looking into adding these pelican hooks to my 15 LPI 1:200 chains... more later!
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. They are gonna be very popular... especially if a way can be figured to do them at 1/350 scale.