The Ship Model Forum

The design for the superstructure for USS Pennsylvania BB-38 as she appeared on December 7th, 1941 is complete and ready for 3D printing in Frosted Ultra Detail on Shapeways.com.

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey

It is a four-part kit assembled like a layer cake, available in 1/192, 1/200 (Trumpeter), 1/350 (Banner, etc.), 1/426 (Revell) and 1/700 (Dragon/Hobby Boss/Mini Hobby Models) scales.

Features:
• two detailed armored conning tower stations, one for command and navigation and the other for flag officer command, with three types of accurately shaped vision slits
• enlarged bridge, unique to Pennsylvania
• enlarged, signal deck, unique to Pennsylvania
• properly shaped navigation bridge and pilot house
• truncated rangefinder platform ("clipped" at rear in the 1941 design, fully circular in the 1935 design)
• open door positions ready for your favorite photo-etch doors (not included)
• unusual doors (exterior navigating bridge and air defense station) present in the closed position
• heavy supporting structure details
• fine supporting structure details omitted, ready for your favorite photo-etch parts (not included)

USS Arizona 1941 Superstructure also available.

For some scales, it is available in both "Frosted Ultra Detail" and "Frosted Extreme Detail" acrylic plastics. Both are printed in the same acrylic plastic using the same $70k printer but at a different resolution. Ultra is the more economical option of the two and is printed in layers 29 microns thick. Extreme is printed in layers just 16 microns thick producing the best detail possible but is more costly because it takes nearly twice as long to print nearly twice as many layers (time = money).

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

The design for the USS Pennsylvania BB-38 superstructure as the ship appeared in 1935 is complete.

Like the 1941 version, it is a four-part kit assembled like a layer cake, available in 1/192, 1/200 (Trumpeter), 1/350 (Banner, etc.), 1/426 (Revell) and 1/700 (Dragon/Hobby Boss/Mini Hobby Models) scales.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Are you going to design a superstructure for Arizona, same era? In 1/700? If so, I'm going to have to buy yet another Dragon kit (4th) and start again!

Yes! 1941 done! In 1/700, 1/426 and 1/350. 1935 coming soon.

Are the kits' superstructures pretty bad? These should help.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

These look really nice. Besides the bridge, what else would have to be changed on a 700 Arizona to make a 'right' Penns?

Thanks.

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A guy that likes too many types of kits. Namely pretty much it all interests me... UGH, right?

Building: 1/700 USS San Francisco 1942 fit
1/700 CV-3 Saratoga 1944 fit (Tamiya kit)
1/48 Beaufighter MkX (Tamiya)

Thanks!
Depends on the era being modeled. The bridge tower is without doubt the most noticeable difference for 1930s through Pearl Harbor, much of the rest is very similar. After Pearl Harbor, the differences become increasingly significant. Pennsylvania after 1943 was a very different ship above the main deck.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Yes, I have a late war Dragon Penn (which is VERY different as you mention {lots of DP 5" and AA}), but was wondering what else would I have to do to turn a Arizona into a Penn from Pearl Timeframe. I thought they were close, but wasn't sure if other things outside the bridge/superstructure were significantly different. Thanks.

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A guy that likes too many types of kits. Namely pretty much it all interests me... UGH, right?

Building: 1/700 USS San Francisco 1942 fit
1/700 CV-3 Saratoga 1944 fit (Tamiya kit)
1/48 Beaufighter MkX (Tamiya)

Ah yes, for Pearl Harbor, Pennsylvania did receive and mount a CXAM-1 radar screen on her foremast. This radar was censored out of the photos of her with the wrecked USS Cassin and USS Downes before her in drydock. The exact location and shape of the radar shack is unconfirmed and may be identical to Arizona's. I chose not to include it since no information about it could be found in time to make the design.

Pennsylvania's mast platforms appear to be identical to Arizona's on this date. Not so after her refit at Mare Island the next month. So your Arizona kit's masts and fighting tops work out well. Pennsylvania's inclined tripod legs may be a tad bit steeper.

If you study the Pearl Harbor drydock photo closely and compare it to the Mare Island superstructure photo above, you may notice what appears to be the same life raft stowage on the starboard side.

She may have had four quad 1.1 inch AA guns (Chicago Pianos) mounted that Arizona did not yet have, but was scheduled to.

To confirm Pennsylvania's December 7th AA fit and mast platform shapes, you may want to ask Tracy White on this site as he has done extensive research into ships at Pearl Harbor.

Hope this helps and best wishes on your model!

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Steve,

You do amazing work!

My kingdom for some 1/350 water cooled .50 cals so I don't have to use these:

http://www.squadron.com/1-350-White-Ensign-USN-0-50-cal-Watercooled-Machi-p/we3549.htm

No offense to John Snyder or Peter Hall.....

Bob

Other Dec. 7 differences between AZ & Penn as I recall:
Penn had no 1.1 quads, but did have the 3" mounts where AZ had empty tubs. Horizontal member of the big boat cranes is lower than on Az. Avgas pipe is on the other side of the hull and routed a bit differently. There is some difference in the termination of the hull bulges at the stern.
Go to the Calling All Ship Fans page; I recall running through these at length some time ago.

- Sean F.

Here are some photos of what Tony Bunch did to his Dragon 1/700 AZ some years ago to make the forward superstructure more accurate. You can judge for yourself.

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Tony is a real trooper!

Looks like some Model Monkey magic is required. Okay, I'll do an Arizona. Which era is preferred, 1936-ish or December 7th?

I have other projects I am promised to complete first (including Penn/Az fighting tops - but not in 1/700, go to 3DModelparts for those), but worry not, my nautical friends, it will come. In the mean-time, may I suggest a Pennsylvania?

Sean has made extensive, valuable and helpful notes on that thread.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

I just ordered 2 of the Pennsylvania 41 bridge sets!!! How about some 1941 Nevada / Oklahoma main gun turrets in 1/700 also a good 1941 Arizona bridge sounds awesome.

Personally, I would prefer a Dec 7, superstructure version. I did some scratch and used Eduard's PE set to improve the kit, but your stuff looks a lot better! Would you also be doing improved ship's boats and launches?

Thanks so much!

Stay tuned.

Thanks so much!
I'll have to pass on ships boats for now.

For all 1/700 fans, please check out 3DModelparts.com for fighting tops. Superb work, superb products, superb customer service.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Those structures look really good, and that's amazing how quickly it came from suggestion to product! I just ordered the 1941 bridge in both 1:350 and 1:700.
Makes me glad my 1:350 Pennsylvania conversion project has been stalled out for so long!

- Sean F.

Thanks so much for the compliment and order! I hope you'll be thrilled with the superstructures.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Sean, some feedback I have received may be of help to you when you get the superstructure parts. The parts are printed in an acrylic plastic called Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD) which is more brittle than polystyrene. Since I designed the parts to be very tight-fitting, if necessary at all, trim for a good fit rather than using any force.

FUD acrylic plastic takes acrylic paints designed specifically for plastics very well. Enamels may not harden on it.

Hope these tips help make for a very happy experience with your new superstructures!

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

I just received my Model Monkey 1/700 Arizona turrets. Definitely an improvement over the Dragon turrets, with finer detail. There are a couple of things some modelers might find issue with - there is no pivot post printed on to the turret bottom, so you have to either: glue on a piece of plastic tubing of suitable diameter, or glue the turrets direct to the barbettes; and the gun barrels and turrets are a single printed unit, so if you want to use your nice new shiny turned brass barrels, you will have to cut off the printed barrels and drill holes for the brass ones. The turrets are sold as 3 of one catalog number, and a fourth of another catalog number, although I really can't see a difference between the two.

Hey, thanks for the tips. Enamels are my preferred paint, so I will be sure to experiment before committing. I'll also have ago at a lacquer primer coat and see if that helps.

- Sean F.