Thanks Devin.
So the cut-file phase of this project has begun, and I thought I'd post a very basic overview of how I use the CAD model to produce cut-files.
I'm using the stringer/frame version of the hull for this example.
First, I'll take the basic hull model hollowed out to the thickness I want the frames to be. No need for details on the CAD model at this point, they only make producing your cut files harder.
I try to get as many notches and taps on the CAD model before I start making the cut-file sketches I'll use. Starting with making the stringer notches, I'll use multiple Planes at an angle to the hull, then use those Planes to create Split-Lines on the hull surface where I want the stringer notches.
Next I'll Thicken those split surfaces to form the stringers, and Indent them into the hull to form the notches.
Now a series of Planes along the length of the hull where I want the frames to be. Then I make a Sketch on each Plane and use Intersect-Curves to make the frame Sketches.
You can make the cut-files without Extruding each Sketch into a solid body as I have done, but I like to do it this way for two reasons. It's nice to actually see how everything fits together, plus I use these solid parts to make my assembly drawings.
For the long parts that will not fit on a stock Ply or Basswood sheet, I'll Split these into sections that will fit. Then make Sketches of those parts the same way as the frames, Intersect Curves.
Once all those Sketches are made, I'll just copy and paste each one onto a sized drawing matching the material sheet size, and arrange them to fill out the sheet. It's nice to fill up the space on each sheet as much as possible if you can, but if you are using different materials, sometimes this isn't possible. It isn't such a bad thing though, because you have spare material to use elsewhere.
And here's the Cut-files, which I'll now "save-as" DWG files, then open them in Draftsite to add some holding tabs, then re-save them as either DXF or DWG, whichever the laser cutter prefers. One little trick, save them in the older, AutoCAD 12 DXF or DWG format, this automatically converts Splines to Poly-lines, which the laser cutting software reads better.
On to the B&B cut-files.....
-Dean