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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 11:42 pm 
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The Hughes/Russell early 1942 after deckhouse has been redone. Again. And ordered. Again. And rejected. Again.

Sorry for the delay, its Shapeways, not me. They keep accepting the model and then rejecting it later on when they're about to start printing it, saying some part of it doesn't meet there minimum printing guidelines. I've been through this process several times. Sigh... This time, its the little supports I added underneath the gun tubs. I made them 0.62 mils thick this time, to overcome their 0.6 mil minimum. Hopefully, it will be on its way to me in a week or two. Let's pray!

Someday, I will own my own personal 3D printer. Then, I shall rule the world...

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 7:11 am 
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Hang in there Bob. We're all rooting for you.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:29 pm 
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Thanks, I'm trying! Here's hoping everything goes through. Having the design rejected wouldn't be such a big deal if Shapeways would tell me everything that's supposedly wrong with it all at once, instead of finding something new (thin walls, etc.) everytime its redesigned and uploaded.

They're giving me a ship date of 8/17. Ugh...

Bob

PS I also run the STL files through Netfabb Personal, which tells me things are printable, part of the reason Shapeways is such a bother. They also use a version of Netfabb, so someone's Netfabb is wrong.


Last edited by aptivaboy on Wed Aug 05, 2015 12:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 5:36 pm 
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Bob,
I was just notified by Shapeways today that the stack and deckhouse have been shipped. Looking forward to finishing the conversion.
throck3


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 12:19 am 
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Super! I hope you like it and that you're not disappointed. I really don't want to design and sell garbage, so feel free to send along constructive criticisms. The lofts were a real pain, where the funnel gussets out into the base. That took nearly a year, on and off, more a testament to my lack of skill.

Which ship are you planning on doing? I've always been partial to Hughes and Russell.

Bob


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 5:24 pm 
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Bob,
I'm doing DD 411 Anderson. In the above posts, I was normally seen as "guest", as the site was not recognizing my login. For some reason it is now.
I'm basically finished with the forward structures, have finished the conversion of the aft deckhouse, and am finished painting, so am waiting for the stack and the middle deckhouse to finish it. Your stack and deckhouse sure look good in the photos.

Rick

throck3


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:55 pm 
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Bob,
I received the stack and deckhouse in the mail today. Very, very nice.
My compliments.

Rick


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 11:53 pm 
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Awesome, I hope they work for you. PLEASE post pictures when you're done!

I tried posting this the other day, but the board wouldn't accept it even though I was logged in.
- Watch for that little mushroom vent in the packaging. Depending upon how Shapeways packaged the parts, its easy to miss.
- The side uptake vent package is done, but Shapeways keeps messing up the sizing. The model is in MM, but Shapeways keeps making it in CMs, with a price of over $100! For some reason, upon upload they alter the units and make the part far larger than it needs to be. They can probably be scratched on your own to save money and if Shapeways keeps messing stuff up. I'll be happy to post the dimensions in 1/350th if anyone asks.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:01 pm 
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I received my SIMS class stack and midships deckhouse today. Looks great.

Question; Is the plastic used to "print" these styrene or more like a resin? I'm wondering how I should best attach these to my BENSON-GLEAVES kit. Any special prep work before painting? These are my first experience with the "Printed Ship Kit Parts" market and I have not been paying any close attention to how one actually use these.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:36 pm 
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Thanks! That means a lot from you. Thank you for all of your help!

I think its a form of resin, so normal resin prep procedures should work. People laugh at me for suggesting this, but it works - soak the parts in Head and Shoulders or some other dandruff shampoo in lukewarm to room temperature water, then LIGHTLY scrub with a soft toothbrush or similar. I've found that whatever is in Head and Shoulders will remove the greasy film left on the parts from the printing process. Your goal should be clear parts, or as clear as can be with the printing media. Otherwise, the paint may not adhere well.

CA glue works for attaching printed parts. However, measure twice before gluing them down as printed parts can be brittle and shatter easily, so if you need to come back later and adjust their positions, it can really damage them. I'd LIGHTLY run a sanding stick on the bottoms of the parts to ever so slightly rough them up and supply some teeth for the glue.

I've painted printed parts with Testors and Tamiya acrylics and Testor's enamels and had no adverse issues. However, using things like lacquer thinner and the like is something I have zero experience with so I can't comment. You may want to ask on the Shapeways message board if you're planning using anything out of the ordinary for painting or thinning. I'd say regular old scale modeling paint should be fine, but use caution with anything exotic, and test it on an interior wall of the deckhouse, for example, to ensure it works and doesn't harm the part.

Shapeways emailed saying that the Hughes deckhouse is in production. I've heard that before, but its a start. Let's hope! If it prints alright, then I'll just alter the shielding's height minimally to make Russell, and shift it aft to make Sims. Morris is still in the works, and then I think I'm done. I'd love it if Shapeways could print and deliver the deckhouse before work starts up and more time goes away. I'm a high school teacher and we're starting two weeks early this year (ugh!) so the more that can get done now, the better.

Man, the Angels suck tonight. Back to watching Sharpe reruns!

Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 12:02 am 
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PS. This is the kind of transparency you'll want before painting:

Image

These were then painted with regular old Tamiya grey.

Image

Not trying to show off, just supplying examples of printed models I've done and the paints that have worked with them:

Argus, painted mainly with Testors Acryl and Tamiya paints: http://s231.photobucket.com/user/aptiva ... t=4&page=1

Hephaestus, painted with a mixture of acrylics and Testors enamels: http://s231.photobucket.com/user/aptiva ... t=4&page=1

Heroine, part resin from Alliance, part printed (nacelles, rollbar, etc.), painted with Acryls: http://s231.photobucket.com/user/aptiva ... t=4&page=1

I really think regular old modeling paints will work fine. None of the above models have had any issues with paint adherence once the parts were properly cleaned. Well, Heroine has but the paint adherence is an issue on the cast resin saucer, not on the printed parts, oddly enough. Hope this helps!

Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 12:14 pm 
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Bob,

Thanks for the info, that is how I will proceed then.

I'm not sure when I will start a "DML BENSON-GLEAVES conversion to a SIMS" project, but I likely will try dry-fitting these parts to a deck soon. I'm not sure which SIMS class unit and for which timeframe I will model one of the class to. Right now I'm leaning to one of the Atlantic based units; USS ROE, USS WAINWRIGHT, and USS BUCK. All the units in this class saw much service and honorable service, with several being lost in action.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 12:46 pm 
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And, they don't get much "press" in the histories, sadly. It seems as a DD didn't fight a desperate battle like Borie did, or wasn't inshore off of Normandy like McCook, that they just didn't get much recognition. I always wanted the old Classic Warships Sims. What was that, 1/192nd scale? Too big for my little condo now, unfortunately.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 1:16 pm 
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But, they did get noticed and received recognition.

... http://destroyerhistory.org/goldplater/simsclass/ ...


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 2:35 pm 
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You're right, I was overgeneralizing a bit, but most people seem fixated on Fletchers and Sumner/Gearings, it seems to me. I've always been partial to the prewar classes, the ones that did the dirty work until the later classes came on line in significant numbers. To that end, I'm thinking of doing a full 3D/CAD Bagley or Gridley, at least doing the hull and superstructure and then letting the modeler collect the armament and other goodies from L'Arsenal and the like. I'm mulling the idea.

One last thing on the painting, a nice thin coat of Mr. Surfacer as a primer will hide a lot of the little blemishes and artifacts left over from the printing process.

Okay, gotta go. She who demands chin scratches and catnip treats is literally howling so loudly for attention that people on the phone can hear her!

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 7:13 pm 
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Back to the SIMS class and using the BENSON-GLEAVES hulls for a SIMS class conversion.

I finally took a detailed look at the plans for aft deckhouses on the SIMS and BENSON class (GLEAVES class should be the same in this area) and the SIMS class is two frames (about 42-in) longer forward than the BENSON class. They end at the same exact frame on both classes and appear to be the same width. Interesting that most of the rooms in the aft deckhouse are the same on both classes as well. So to use a DML BENSON class aft deckhouse would require adding about 42-scale inches (about 1/8-in in 1/350 scale) to the forward end of the deckhouse. Not bad.

I had always "eyeballed" the BENSON and SIMS class ships and figured that only the stuff between the bridge and the aft deckhouse, plus what was on the aft deckhouse forward of the 53 mount, were the only things different topside. I was close to being right. :smallsmile:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:32 pm 
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Rick,
The length of the deckhouses is an observation I would not have made. I assumed they would have been the same, barring the differences that come from the different building yards, and the only true difference would have been the power plant and obvious stacks.
One of the building yard differences that I stumbled across with the Sims conversion, was the configuration of the fantail depth charge racks and smoke dischargers. I'm doing the Anderson, DD 411, which is a Federal Shipbuilding Yard destroyer. Her depth charge racks are nearly parallel with a slight slant toward the center line as they go toward the fantail, and the smoke discharger is a single unit mounted on a cross-hatch stand over the fantail closed chock. Depth charge racks from the other building yards tend to have a much more acute angle of the racks as they go to the stern. Moral to the story, when doing a Sims class boat, know where your particular subject was built and really pay attention to the available photos.
Fortunately, for me, I had already mounted the depth charge racks as they appeared on Livermore, the donor kit I am using and they are correct. I wasn't so fortunate on the smoke discharger, though. I mounted both of them as on Livermore, and of course that is wrong. I'm afraid I'm at the point of no return on my Anderson conversion, though. It is painted, has the photo-etch on it, and is waiting to be rigged and have the whaleboats mounted. I think I will simply have to live with that mistake.

Once again, Bob, the stack and middle deckhouse look great, especially when painted and in place. They really set off the build and make a great looking Sims.

Rick/throck3


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 7:12 pm 
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Pictures, pictures! :smallsmile: :smallsmile:

I hope my Hughes deckhouse is the right length. I took the dimensions straight from the Floating Drydock's Sims-class plans, so they'll hopefully work out.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:44 pm 
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Location: Los Angeles and Houston
aptivaboy wrote:
Thanks, I'm trying! Here's hoping everything goes through. Having the design rejected wouldn't be such a big deal if Shapeways would tell me everything that's supposedly wrong with it all at once, instead of finding something new (thin walls, etc.) everytime its redesigned and uploaded.

They're giving me a ship date of 8/17. Ugh...

Bob

PS I also run the STL files through Netfabb Personal, which tells me things are printable, part of the reason Shapeways is such a bother. They also use a version of Netfabb, so someone's Netfabb is wrong.


This is an area where StrataSys rules.

When they go to do a print test, they actually print out a test copy of the model, along with a list of components that are no-spec.

The software Shapeways uses (Netfab)... It looks until it find a non-print spec, and then stops (at least as they have it set up).

So, you have to fix, re-submit, again and again.

I hope they change the way they do that eventually.

MB

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OMG LOOK! A signature

Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:50 pm 
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aptivaboy wrote:
You're right, I was overgeneralizing a bit, but most people seem fixated on Fletchers and Sumner/Gearings, it seems to me. I've always been partial to the prewar classes, the ones that did the dirty work until the later classes came on line in significant numbers. To that end, I'm thinking of doing a full 3D/CAD Bagley or Gridley, at least doing the hull and superstructure and then letting the modeler collect the armament and other goodies from L'Arsenal and the like. I'm mulling the idea.

One last thing on the painting, a nice thin coat of Mr. Surfacer as a primer will hide a lot of the little blemishes and artifacts left over from the printing process.

Okay, gotta go. She who demands chin scratches and catnip treats is literally howling so loudly for attention that people on the phone can hear her!

Bob



You and me both (The Bagley/Gridley).

Looking at the FED, though, It looks like it would be a problem even in 1/700 scale, due to the layering process.

I would have to use an SLA and then cast the parts.

They do make finishing solutions for printed parts that reduce the prominence of the print-layers. But I have found that they also obscure details.

It might be that I have to do the larger parts as separate pieces, and then add details post-print with brass and/or styrene, prior to casting them.

It would be nice if I just had more room to do 1/350 scale.

MB

_________________
OMG LOOK! A signature

Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16


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