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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 12:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:24 pm
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Hello
I am a new member here wonderful and execellent place where gifted people exist.

I am going to try and make railings scale 1/542 , 1/600 ,1/720 , 1/350

What i am looking for is information on size of handrails and posts per scale
From deck to middle, top rail and position of posts.

Would i best go to the international standards for railings and ladders

I am working on Revell USS Forestal Class CV59

thanks from
kevin_albanycreek


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 10:51 am
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Location: S.C.
Hello Kevin.
You may want to post that question over in "Calling All Ship Fans" under the Aircraft Carrier section... there is a thread on that AC class.....someone there may know or be able to point you in the right direction for that info.

You say you want to make the rails...or that is what I understood you to say.....however a Photo-Etch set is made for the Midway/Forrestal/Essex class in the 1/540ish scale for the Revell kit(s).
It's available from Gold Metal models at goldmm.com
There are also several manufacturers of PE that make "Generic" railings in various scale including 1/500 you may want to consider if you only are sourcing rails and not complete PE sets for your build.
Check out some of the sites Sponsors listed on the main page of the forum for more info and product lists

Good Luck


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:06 am
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Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Hello and welcome aboard! :wave_1: Indeed this forum is a real treasure for ship modellers.
You intended to build your own railings, right? Do you mean making stanchions from some rods or wires then add lines or stretched sprues as horizontal chains? I tried doing that, ended badly, but I was quite happy with the result back then when I was about 12 years old. I would nevertheless suggest you to try to get the generic railing sets issued by most PE manufacturers. The only problem is that sometimes the actual rail stanchions of a ship may have specific spacing distances and generic ones might not match, so the best option would be to draw your own set and have them etched! This is a bit difficult though and I still cannot do this myself...

I have seen this product of Tamiya that has rail stanchions and includes thin wire to insert into the holes. It is in 1/350 scale and looks like it is for their Yamato kit. Using this you could position the stanchions of any distance you want. I am not sure if any other manufacturers also make this or not. Here is the link if you want to have a look: http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/moke ... iya-12642/
I think it is currently out of production...

Hope this helps a bit, and good luck with your builds! :thumbs_up_1:

Aop

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:24 pm
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I thank you both for your replys

I do think photoetch would be the better option but with limited funds the photoetch is about 1/2 the cost of the forrestal kit.
That said in dont know it is possible make ,but would like to try.

I had searched google and this popped up made by shipbuilder. I need the spaceings betweeen the wires.

this was made by Shipbuilder back in 2011
Image

thanks
kevin


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 8:34 am 
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I built that kit several years ago but it was destroyed during a coastal storm that blew in some windows at the house...I scrapped the model but did salvage some of the PE rails and such and tossed them into my PE scrap stash to use on a Missouri build.......Last nite I located a small section of left over "3 Bar" rail from that GMM "Forrestal" set.

The stanchions are 1/8 in. apart and the rail from bottom to top is 3/32in in height. So the top to bottom spacing is 1/32 between each rail.
Sorry but didn't locate any "4 Bar" to measure.

Hope that helps.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 5:44 pm 
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:woo_hoo: gott_cha :thumbs_up_1:

now i have the info all i have to do now is make the jig

Thanks again


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:21 am 
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Good deal then...!

Check you pm... mail incoming.


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