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 Post subject: Automobile body putty?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 11:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:46 am
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My fairly large-scale inaugural scratchbuild project will need a good amount of puttying to compensate for goofs and contours not easily replicated in the construction. I've seen reference to using auto body filler as a good, inexpensive material to use as opposed to all the little tubes of hobbyist putties. I'd appreciate any recommendations as to type, brand to get, as well as how to use over styrene, wood. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 11:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 1:40 pm
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Location: New Jersey
I use Bondo.

http://bondo.com/

Specifically, this: http://bondo.com/bondo-professional-gla ... y-801.html

Had good results with it.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 2:09 pm 
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Martin- Your prompt (and specific) response is appreciated. :thanks:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 2:29 pm 
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Location: Calgary, AB Canada
To add to Martin's excellent suggestion, I would note that the polyester Bondo mix (where you mix a red hardner into the grey stuff in the can) tends to be very grainy and should be used to bulk out parts of a model, but not for the final finish. The Spot/Glazing putty provides a nice smooth surface when sanded, but will melt polystyrene (or at least did for me--through two layers of acrylic sealant too) and turn it into a goopy mess. Bondo also makes a fiberglass impregnated version of the putty/hardner mix--it's a blue green colour and stringy thanks to the glass fibers. I use this to do bulk fixes (usually inside) to a fiberglass hull and the polyester Bondo on the outside. Another nice thing about the polyester Bondo is that it can be thinned by Acetone, and painted on large areas of a hull if it's required (it hardens much smoother in this case, but takes longer to cure).

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Sean

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 8:48 pm 
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Sean- Thank you for your tips as well. The current project needs mostly surface filling, although my amateurish construction techniques have left me with some more substantial defects to correct. Probably best done with multiple layers of putty in this case. I'll note the caveat about the effect on styrene and test out on a small area first.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:16 pm 
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Both the two part Bondo filler and the red putty are good materials. The red filler can be used for large areas and contour shaping, the red putty is a finishing product for filling scratches and minor defects such as you would use squadron Green etc. The putty should not be applied too thick as hardening can be slow and cracking is possible via shrinkage.

Good luck!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 6:33 am 
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Necro post but...

3M 05098 Acryl-Red Glazing Putty is the best product for non-structural work.

It is a one part formula (no mixing :big_grin: ), goes on like toothpaste, dries very hard in less than an hour, but sands beautifully.

It comes in varying sizes, I get the 14.5 oz. tubes for ~$20.00.

3m also offers different colors with different drying times.

This stuff uses solvents that, like most aspects of our hobby, are toxic.

FYI, I use West System epoxy with various fillers for large jobs and bonding different materials, and sometimes squadron green putty for structural work in styrene, but 3M Acryl is my go to putty.

GAB


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 6:49 am 
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Location: Yorktown, Indiana, USA
I use superglue, then Bondo from the tube, then Mr. Surfacer.

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