First off , do you have three view photos and plans as well ? You will also need a CORRECT deck plan set at the level the mast stops (01 ) this gives you your footprint .NOW , measure the amount of degrees the forward leg slants aft .This is important , because if this isn,t correct or square the thing wont work.Once you have this then measure from the 01 deck to the first platform where this leg ends .This is the length of brass rod you NEED to cut .For motorization your tubing needs a hole drilled in it where the platform extends forward .NOW , go back and measure the rear legs .REMEMBER that footprint.Now measure from the forward leg aft to get the set and lean of these legs .AT this time superglue the three legs together and hit the glue with accelerator .After you,ve done this you need to cut, measure and fit all the angled and horizontal leg braces . NOW take the end where the legs come together and turn it (the mast ) upside down .SOLDER the three legs to the bottom of the platform . Do you have the shape of that first level platform? this is crucial. Now when you have done this .you can sit the mast in a jig , or like I do and set it on one side .Put the leg braces in places where they go and solder in place .As you can see it,s not easy . I do this for BaD shipmodels in ARIZONA and an ADAMS CLASS mast takes four days to build not counting the various platforms rail sets . All the masts I do for them are 100% brass and meant to be set up for operational radars .The radars themselves are tricky to get just right when the time comes to set them in place . They have to be EXACTLY centered and they have to clear ALL bracing as they, this includes the rail clearance too , rotate and you can fidge and build them a little smaller or-IF scale fidelity is really important well then you better be dead on .What kind of drive are you contemplating ? this has a lot to do with this too!Have you experience in using a mini-torch ? I ask , because that,s what you HAVE to use .