The Ship Model Forum

In response to a question in my WIP thread for Cruiser Zhemchug in 1/700; I thought it may be pertinent to show what I am using for specific purposes.

As I am now 48 yrs old-(!!) -and my close-up eyesight has deteriorated somewhat ( until 4 years ago I did everything with the naked eye--supplemented with an Optivisor

I now wear the Optivisor in conjunction with my reading glasses.

I find the Optivisor indispensable!!! I use a DA-3 and DA-05 lens--it has really sharpened up my modelling.







Cutting PE.
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I do not like blades for cutting PE-- bits fly everywhere and the cut is not always perfect.

I much prefer using high quality scissors with a really good edge--
==> one can 'feel' any protrusions--however slight -- and tune them away-- works best with brass--stainless steel will wear the blades ( albeit I do replace the scissors every 3 months or so--the old ones get demoted to such functions as cutting brass or Nickel silver rod - even stainless steel wire for making masts and yards

The best so far that I have found --cost to blade ratio are the Fiskars embroidery




For longer runs or cutting railing I use Fiskars needlework




Apropos cutting...

I have always found modelmaking knives and scalpels just too flexible for my liking.-- not enough precision when paring or scoring

I use Stanley blades- hand held in my fingers--rigid and have a good edge--excellent for paring and scraping







- I frequently change to a new blade ( 3-6 blades per session )
as a result I buy them in packs of 100






No seeing or cutting is any use if one cannot hold the tiny parts

My favourite tweezers are the Swiss made RUBIS-- not cheap at all-(!!) -but oh so precise and sharp!-- no twist and no slipping on the points--alas like their cheaper sisters they also do not like being dropped point down...







I have also recently ordered some low stress -to-hold tweezers



For handling very soft and delicate GMM Gold-Plus or WEM ultra-fine 1/700 railing I use stamp collectors' tweezers-- this has no sharp contact points and this results in kink and dent free hand-railings



For clamping masts or sub-assemblies which are having more bits added I use sprung cross action tweezers...





So as to be able to match drill bits to metal rods accurately--or indeed different mast materials etc I find a digital caliper simply indispensable-- they are not expensive now--mine was £ 14.75




Apropos masts-- I like using tube wherever possible ( also good for making funnels)I prefer cutting the tubing with a tube cutter--( also useful for creating indents--ie plates on funnels



I de-burr these with a set of Rifler files




I use a pushpin to start all portholes--and also mast and vent locations .



Having a small indent also means that gluing is made easier--as there is more glue top form a 'plug'.
I often attach non structural parts with wood glue--high grab and dries clear.

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
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IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

_________________
Carl Musselman
(Formerly Back-Aft Models)

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I've found my fly tying tools to in indispensable, to include the vise for supporting builds and holding parts.

Along with that scalpels, proportional dividers, calipers...

For cutting photo etch, its hard to beat a sheet of black acrylic. The visual contrast with the brass pe makes making nub-less cuts (and stub-less parts) much easier, plus your blades will last much longer than if you use glass.
The cutting guide is of great usefulness as well. No flying parts!