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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:25 pm 
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I am attempting to use the 1/700 Modern US Carrier reel set from 5 Star Models (via Freetime Hobbies). I assume that you are supposed to use a piece of rod for the drum, but am having issues trying to insert the rods and keeping the two faces of the reel plumb and parallel to each other.

Can anyone offer any tips on how to construct these? Do you use CA to attach the rod or something like Gator Glue of Elmers? Or do you dispense with trying to depict the hose on the reel and just fold up the two reel faces?

I swear that I will never walk past the 1/700 ships at any contest again! I'll bring my reading glasses to see how in the world you guys do what you do in this scale!!!

Thanks in advance,
Dave


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2020 11:34 am 
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That can be very aggravating :mad_2: . All I can suggest is measuring the exact distance between the fold-up ends with a pair of dividers and cut corresponding lengths of plastic tube, or rod (your hose, or cable), making sure that your cuts are also perpendicular and parallel. Center, and CA, one end of your "hose/cable" to one of the reel ends (I should mention that this works best BEFORE folding the reel ends up, as too much folding, and re-folding will cause the piece to break at the fold line). So...the PE piece is still flat with the plastic part glued to one of the circular ends, sticking up at 90 degrees, then bend both ends upwards and inwards. If everything has been measured and cut correctly, the hose/cable drum should meet the other end both centered and perpendicular... :woo_hoo: Disclaimer: It doesn't always work out this neatly! :cry_3:
:wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2020 12:24 pm 
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As a first, this was a challenge for me too. I may have done it the hard way, but here are my steps:
1. fold metal reel into shape;
2. measure/cut plastic rod (important the ends surface are cut straight);
3. on one side of the reel, fold it back again flat on the surface;
4. glue (CA) rod so it is perpendicular to the reel (the side flat on the surface);
5. fold reel into shape again (do not over-bend), but do not add glue to the opposite end of the plastic rod yet;
6. check rod length meets appropriately to the reel and is parallel to the ground (use xacto knife to trim rod);
7. once you're satisfied with the result, then glue that end;
8. use .006 brass wire and make a half circle, large enough to loop and snug to the rod;
9. clamp it to one end of the rod with tweezers then apply glue - let it dry;
10. start wrapping the wire around the rod (this requires delicate handling).

Here are my results. I may have wired too much on some of the reels, and wished I was more in parallel when wrapping the wire .. oh well, it's my first 1/700 model - learn as you go. viewtopic.php?f=59&t=161768&start=40


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2020 3:07 pm 
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A safer way to do this, if you want to wind thread, etc. on the rod is to do a whole length of plastic (or brass rod/tubing), then cut off the short lengths as you need them. The cable/hose reels are pre-wound, the process of finishing the reels is quicker, and it is less stressful to the fragile PE.
:wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2020 8:29 pm 
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Thanks everyone for the tips. Will find a nice, calm evening to try it again. I think part of my trouble was that some of the reels bent at the base connection when I was removing them from the fret, so they had already had some stress in the fold. I tried measuring with a caliper, but could not fit it in the gap. Will try dividers this time.

Thanks for the assistance,
Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2020 9:25 am 
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dhenning wrote:
I tried measuring with a caliper, but could not fit it in the gap. Will try dividers this time.

Thanks for the assistance,
Dave

Measure before folding the part. Just measure from fold line to fold line. I use dividers for measuring everything - especially railings. And...measure twice, and cut once!
:wave_1:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2020 3:49 am 
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Location: Seattle, WA
For what it's worth...
I bend the frames up to 90 degrees, then glue the spool ends inside the just-bent parts. Then I take electrical wire with black insulation outside diameter that I need for the cable. With the wire pulled out of the insulation, the insulation becomes a soft, workable black tube. If I don't get it measured dead on, or the ends not quite straight, it is cheap to toss it and try again.

I appreciate the instructions with Gold Medal Models that say to use an axle so that the spool will spin, but I don't need moving parts in my 1/700 kits. :-)
Rick

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On the workbench:
1/700 Vladivostok - Combrig
1/700 HMS Peacock - Dodo Models
1/700 Askold - White Ensign


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 6:20 pm 
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Thanks again for the tips. Should be a relative quiet week so hope to make some attempts at these again.

Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2020 7:10 am 
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Location: Belgium
drasticplastic wrote:
A safer way to do this, if you want to wind thread, etc. on the rod is to do a whole length of plastic (or brass rod/tubing), then cut off the short lengths as you need them. The cable/hose reels are pre-wound, the process of finishing the reels is quicker, and it is less stressful to the fragile PE.
:wave_1:


+1
Much easier this way!
Winding the 'hose' (thin copper wire) on the rod before cutting the rod also makes for a more regular and neater winding. It also allows you to work with the maximum thickness of rod (which is easier), as it will only have one layer of copper wire on it.

As for measuring: dry-fitting is key. In 1/700, I find it impossible to measure accurately, as the difference between a good or bad fit often comes down to less than 0.5mm. So I cut long enough, dry-fit, and trim until it fits. If I trim too much, I start again...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 4:59 pm 
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Something new at Shelf Oddity - 3D print cable reels.

https://shelfoddity.com/index.php?route ... uct_id=249


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:21 pm 
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Well, I guess that just about solves that problem! Now we need RN, USN, KM, etc. :thumbs_up_1:
:wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 2:53 pm 
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I've made about 30 so far with about 5 so so ones. Have several that came apart when cleaning up the attachment points so those are in reserve. Thanks again!

Dave


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