The Ship Model Forum

Hi all,
I've recently started working on my first super-detailed kit, a 1/350 Tamiya Yukikaze with the Lionroar detail kit. My first foray into the hyper-detail realm, and my first effort at a turret shows it:



Not a great pic, but the rails are pretty bent and there's a ton of glue/crap on the plastic

I was having the WORST TIME trying to get those railing to attach in any way to the plastic. I've got a good selection of glues, tools, steady hands and ok eyes, what I am lacking is a good technique . I tried several combinations of gator glue to try to tack it, then trying to coax in medium CA in to try and solidify the bond, with marginal success rates. They are barely held on there now.

Would drilling micro holes for a better mounting points be an option? I've been racking my brain this morning to try a different method on the 2nd turret tonight, and any help or advice would be hugely appreciated. I think I'll try tiny holes with a pin vise, then see if I cant get a tiiiiiny amount of CA in there to bond.

-R

If you\re going to drill holes, I would only drill one for the start of the railing to anchor it. When it's firmly in place tack on the rest of the attachment points with tiny amount of CA applied with a needle point.

Ryanb, I've had some success with what I call the "a bit at a time" method. For instance, the railings that around the sides of that turret. Rather than attempt to attache the whole thing in one go, which I found to be both difficult and frustrating, carefully cut the rail into sections. If you have three sides of the turret to do, carefully, using a piece of tempered glass or tile and a good, sharp single edge razor blade, cut the railing into three parts. That way you only have to deal with one bit at a time. Affix the first bit and let the glue set (don't forget the virtues of Zip-Kicker here), then, when it is secure, move on to the next. Line it carefully up and repeat the process. Its worked well for me, and I DON"T have that steady a hand and the Mark I eyeball is showing its age.

If you decide to try that method, let me know how it works for you. Its saved me a lot of aggravation and prevented the utterance of more than one blood curdling oath!

Bob

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Give me a fast ship, for I would like to get out of harm's way!

There are two other suggestions I have:

1) I have not tried this one but a friend of mine suggested it. Use standard plastic glue on the attachment points of the rails. It should melt the plastic just enough that the rails will slightly sink into the plastic and once dry it should hold it.

2) Rather than CA that is typically used I have had much better luck with a product called Gator Grip. ( http://gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html ) It can only be ordered here, but this stuff behaves like white glue so is really easy to work with and has some flexability to it so tempature changes will no cause you PE to shoot off the model. But it has adhesive strength no that far off CA. It is a PVA Kenny developed. REALLY GREAT STUFF!

Additionally a great tool I found is this:
http://www.creativedynamicllc.com/the-glue-looper.html This makes apply glue to small areas a lot easier.

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Gabriel

A Youtube video I saw suggested the drilling of a hole for the first anchor-point.

And then using a pick to create small divots or holes radon the anchor-points of the rail, and then ending with another hole drilled to anchor the final end.

I am about to embark upon my first use of PE on a model, so this has been weighing upon me as well.

MB

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OMG LOOK! A signature

Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16

those small railings are pain and suffering. I definitely agree that cutting them up into smaller, more workable lengths greatly helps. A hole for the beginning and the end is definitely smart as well. Good luck!

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Every time the PE sticks to your tweezers, you lose a minute off your life.

Why not a hole every third or fourth rail?

That way, you do not need to cut them into segments, and it makes it more manageable to get them up.

I will be testing this process on my new Midship Models USS St. Louis sometime toward the end of the month.

MB

_________________
OMG LOOK! A signature

Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16