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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:50 pm
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Hi guys
Since I'm new to extensive use of PE, and I just got an Eduard BigEd set and a kit, I'd like to see what I need to do to prepare the set for use. I have seen people sand it, dip it in vinegar, use as-is, prime entire sheets before use, etc., but I'm still unclear as to what the do's and dont's are. What is be best course of action starting with a PE set? I kind of prefer to paint it once it's glued into position but I realize certain parts, such as rails might be better painted before. Any ideas/tips will be appreciated. I searched the forum for answers but couldn't see any right away.
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:26 am 
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It's not always necessary, but soaking in vinegar over night won't hurt the PE, although there may be some slight discoloration. Washing with dish detergent will remove any possible grease, oils, etc. Some modellers even lightly sand the fret with a fine grade sandpaper for better paint adhesion, but be careful you don't snag some delicate parts and ruin them! Nowadays I tend to prime and paint all the PE while still on the fret - this is especially helpful in the case of see-through structures such as railings, cranes, platform/deck supports, masts, etc, where painting the interiors after folding is difficult to impossible. I use Tamiya primer followed by Tamiya "Acrylic" thinned with their lacquer thinner. It's flexible enough so that it doesn't all flake off. Any chipping that does occur is easily touched up by brush after folding. This is just one method. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:20 pm 
Thanks. I'm trying to gauge the importance of the various options. How about vinegar for just a minute? Overnight sounds like some finer detail would simply dissolve. And sanding? If I don't do it (I would prefer not to have to), does paint not adhere then? Do you sand and use the vinegar method? You seem to have success with paint sticking well.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:37 pm 
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On the flip side, I don't do any prep at all, and I use acrylics. I paint while they're on the fret, and touch-up after they've been attached onto the ship.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 8:54 am 
Would that be the easier way to do it for for example portholes, and other small details that are glued to the surfaces of walls/superstructure/turrets? I would have thought priming and painting those after all details are on it would be easier, and it also hides any glue marks. Do you mean this technique is better for 3D-folded stuff, cranes etc?

Timmy C wrote:
On the flip side, I don't do any prep at all, and I use acrylics. I paint while they're on the fret, and touch-up after they've been attached onto the ship.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 11:01 am 
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You'll have to judge for yourself which PE parts are best primed and painted on the fret, and which are best painted after attaching to the model. Soaking brass in vinegar overnight will not dissolve it. This is vinegar (sour wine :big_grin: ), not sulfuric acid! :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 4:21 am 
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Some people like to attach most PE after basic painting (and also painting the PE on the fret before folding and attaching), others attach everything to the model (or subassemblies of it) before painting everything together. I'm firmly in the latter camp, but both methods have their advantages and disadvantages and can be made to work just fine. Of course you can also combine both methods.

However, I see no point in painting PE items separately which are to be attached flat to a flat surface. Who would do that with plastic parts, so why would you do it with PE?

The important thing is not to see PE as something really different than the plastic parts of the kit. They are simply extra parts, which can be incorporated in your build any way or at any time you think is most convenient.

I never do any special preparation at all, no washing, soaking, sanding etc. and this has never caused any problem for me.

Cheers,

Marijn


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 12:04 pm 
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Location: Poland, Wroclaw
My little stone into this garden:
When PE parts are painted by definition they weaken the gluing joints. CA glue grips pretty well bras and plastic. Once you prepaint the PE part CA grips paint- no raw material. Adhesive strenght of the paint onto any surface (either bras or plastic) is weaker that adhesive streght of the CA glue.
This fact should be considered when prepaint decision comming up.
I think it is worth to consider prepaint items without structural loads like railings, riggings, antenas...

Priming - I never done it... In some scales (1/700) it might give unneccesary thickness which may destroy the details.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 1:16 pm 
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marijn van gils wrote:
Some people like to attach most PE after basic painting (and also painting the PE on the fret before folding and attaching), others attach everything to the model (or subassemblies of it) before painting everything together. I'm firmly in the latter camp, but both methods have their advantages and disadvantages and can be made to work just fine. Of course you can also combine both methods.

However, I see no point in painting PE items separately which are to be attached flat to a flat surface. Who would do that with plastic parts, so why would you do it with PE?

The important thing is not to see PE as something really different than the plastic parts of the kit. They are simply extra parts, which can be incorporated in your build any way or at any time you think is most convenient.

I never do any special preparation at all, no washing, soaking, sanding etc. and this has never caused any problem for me.

Cheers,

Marijn


This is my attitude.

Each part on a model will require a different approach.

Sometimes you will need to paint a part on the Sprue, other times, you assemble sub-units, and paint before assembly.

Other times, you assemble as much as possible, in the correct order, and then paint when finished.

The best kits I have found that use this approach are the Dragon Smart Kits, which have PE parts added (although not really enough).

But they include where in the build you need to add a certain PE part, and how to best assemble it.

I have been trying to make a guide like that for the Five Star PE kits.

I have not yet looked at how Flyhawk approaches their PE instructions (I only have three Flyhawk PE kits, and I have not yet opened them).

I do not do a lot of prep. I just "wash" the frets, slightly (I do not use a brush or anything, just run water over them, and then place them between two sheets of blotter-paper overnight to dry), but that is it.

I want to touch/handle the parts as little as possible, not because I am worried about grease from my fingers, but because I know that touching the PE can cause it to bend. And I want to reduce every opportunity to "bend" the PE that I can.

MB

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1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
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