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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:58 am 
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Model Monkey
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Tip #6: "Frosted Detail" plastic may be sensitive to prolonged oxygen exposure. Please clean and paint your "Frosted Detail" products soon after receiving them, or leave them in the plastic bag they were shipped in until you can clean and paint them.

FUD and FXD parts are shipped to you in plastic bubble wrap. The parts will come to you covered in a thin, protective coating of oil. If you don't intend to use your parts for a while, just leave them be, uncleaned, in their wrap.

"Frosted Detail" Kunststoff kann empfindlich auf verlängerte Sauerstoffbelastung sein. Bitte reinigen und malen Sie Ihre "Frosted Detail" Produkte bald nach dem Erhalt, oder lassen Sie sie in der Plastiktüte, die sie versendet wurden, bis Sie sie reinigen und malen können.

"Frosted Detail" plastique peut être sensible à l'exposition prolongée à l'oxygène. Veuillez nettoyer et peindre vos produits "Frosted Detail" peu de temps après leur réception ou les laisser dans le sac en plastique qu'ils ont expédié jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez les nettoyer et les peindre.

"Frosted Detail" plastic puede ser sensible a la exposición prolongada al oxígeno. Por favor, limpie y pinte sus productos de "Frosted Detail" poco después del recibo o déjelos en la bolsa de plástico que han enviado hasta que pueda limpiarlos y pintarlos.

"Frosted Detail" Пластмасса деталью может быть чувствительна к продолжительному воздействию кислорода. Пожалуйста, очистите и закрасьте свои изделия Frosted Detail вскоре после их получения или оставьте их в полиэтиленовом пакете, в который они были отправлены, пока вы не очистите и не закрасите их.

"Frosted Detail" muovi voi olla herkkä pitkäaikainen happialtistuksen. Puhdista ja maalaa huurrettua Detail tuotteita pian saatuaan niitä tai jättää ne muovipussiin ne kuljetettiin kunnes voit puhdistaa ja maalata ne.

พลาสติก "Frosted Detail" อาจมีความไวต่อการได้รับออกซิเจนเป็นเวลานาน โปรดทำความสะอาดและทาสีผลิตภัณฑ์ "Frosted Detail" หลังจากได้รับหรือทิ้งไว้ในถุงพลาสติกที่จัดส่งจนกว่าคุณจะสามารถทำความสะอาดและทาสี

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


Last edited by ModelMonkey on Thu Apr 13, 2017 11:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:58 am 
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Thank your for the information! That could explain the yellowing of some of the parts I had ordered.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 12:27 pm 
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Model Monkey
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A customer has reported a bad experience cleaning 3D printed parts with "Goo Gone" which he reports attacked the plastic damaging the part.

Please do not use Goo Gone to clean Frosted Detail plastic.

Please follow the most up-to-date cleaning and painting advice found on the cover page of my catalog. All of my product webpages link to that advice.

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 10:05 am 
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Tip # 7: fixing a warped part.

If you receive a warped 3D-printed part from Shapeways, that likely means there is liquid resin present in your part which permitted the part to bend during packaging and/or shipping. Fully cured acrylic plastic does not bend, it breaks.

To cure the warp, fix the product to a flat surface or otherwise set it to the position you want it to be in and expose it to a lot of UV light. It will harden in the position you set. No need to apply any heat, just a good dose of sunlight.

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


Last edited by ModelMonkey on Sat Aug 19, 2017 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:44 pm 
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Great info people. Just purchased my first Shapeways item. Wonder why they wouldn't put a sheet of this info in with it ? Too obvious ? Thanks folks, I just soaked mine in Simple Green and will put it in the sun tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 6:35 pm 
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I just received my 1/3000 and 1/4800 scale ships, amazing detail on the 1/3000 IJN and USN warships. I washed them in Dawn and primed them with Tamiya acrylic paint using my airbrush. WOW! details are incredible!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 7:19 am 
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Hi, does anyone have experience using tamiya lacquer spray paint on frosted ultra detail?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 7:11 am 
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ModelMonkey wrote:
Tip #6: "Frosted Detail" plastic may be sensitive to prolonged oxygen exposure. Please clean and paint your "Frosted Detail" products soon after receiving them, or leave them in the plastic bag they were shipped in until you can clean and paint them.

FUD and FXD parts are shipped to you in plastic bubble wrap. The parts will come to you covered in a thin, protective coating of oil. If you don't intend to use your parts for a while, just leave them be, uncleaned, in their wrap.

"Frosted Detail" Kunststoff kann empfindlich auf verlängerte Sauerstoffbelastung sein. Bitte reinigen und malen Sie Ihre "Frosted Detail" Produkte bald nach dem Erhalt, oder lassen Sie sie in der Plastiktüte, die sie versendet wurden, bis Sie sie reinigen und malen können.

"Frosted Detail" plastique peut être sensible à l'exposition prolongée à l'oxygène. Veuillez nettoyer et peindre vos produits "Frosted Detail" peu de temps après leur réception ou les laisser dans le sac en plastique qu'ils ont expédié jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez les nettoyer et les peindre.

"Frosted Detail" plastic puede ser sensible a la exposición prolongada al oxígeno. Por favor, limpie y pinte sus productos de "Frosted Detail" poco después del recibo o déjelos en la bolsa de plástico que han enviado hasta que pueda limpiarlos y pintarlos.

"Frosted Detail" Пластмасса деталью может быть чувствительна к продолжительному воздействию кислорода. Пожалуйста, очистите и закрасьте свои изделия Frosted Detail вскоре после их получения или оставьте их в полиэтиленовом пакете, в который они были отправлены, пока вы не очистите и не закрасите их.

"Frosted Detail" muovi voi olla herkkä pitkäaikainen happialtistuksen. Puhdista ja maalaa huurrettua Detail tuotteita pian saatuaan niitä tai jättää ne muovipussiin ne kuljetettiin kunnes voit puhdistaa ja maalata ne.

พลาสติก "Frosted Detail" อาจมีความไวต่อการได้รับออกซิเจนเป็นเวลานาน โปรดทำความสะอาดและทาสีผลิตภัณฑ์ "Frosted Detail" หลังจากได้รับหรือทิ้งไว้ในถุงพลาสติกที่จัดส่งจนกว่าคุณจะสามารถทำความสะอาดและทาสี


Wish I had read this post before buying parts for my next 3 ship builds, which could take up to 3 years. Since there has been some time since this information was posted, hopefully the answer to my question will be easy. Would it be best to store in original packaging or clean and undercoat?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 10:48 am 
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Model Monkey
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Either way, your parts should be fine.

I have parts in hand printed 4 years ago, some of which are still in their original bags, and others cleaned and primed, and they are all in great shape.

Thanks for your patronage!

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


Last edited by ModelMonkey on Mon Jun 04, 2018 5:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 7:59 pm 
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Just bought my first shapeways part - 20mm oerlikon tubs for British ships. Nice. The only option was clear plastic. I will clean up as described. I'm assuming I need to use CA glue to stick them to other plastic. I had to cut one to put a flat surface on one side of the tub (one of the mounts on HMS Victorious). Was dead simple. Once I cut a piece of styrene for the flat surface, I'm assuming it's CA to stick it on. And then CA to attach it to the superstructure. Correct?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 5:02 am 
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Model Monkey
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Thanks for you patronage!

Yes, CA is a very good choice as an adhesive.

"Fine Detail" acrylic plastic is chemically related to Plexiglas. Cements like Testors liquid cement, which do work very well for polystyrene, don't work with "Fine Detail" acrylic. CA is a good choice because it works well with both injection-molded polystyrene and "Fine Detail" acrylic.

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:48 am 
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Shapeways recently changed the names of some of its materials based on customer feedback.

"White Strong and Flexible" is now "White Processed Versatile Plastic". This material is nylon.
"Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD)" is now "Smooth Fine Detail Plastic". This material is acrylic, chemically related to Plexiglas.
"Frosted Extreme Detail (FXD)" is now "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic". This material is also acrylic.

Same materials, new names.

To echo and emphasize earlier comments, these 3D-printed materials do not behave like injection-molded polystyrene or other resins. Our years of modeling experience can actually work against us when it comes to using 3D-printed materials.

"Versatile Plastic" and "Fine Detail" 3D-printed materials are very different. Their cost is very different, too, and there are several reasons for that. Each of these materials has its own strengths and weaknesses. Here's a brief summary of them:

"Versatile Plastic" (nylon) is generally not suitable for static display models where surface smoothness and detail are important. "Versatile Plastic" nylon is better suited for large-scale Radio Control models where material strength and durability are more important than surface smoothness and detail.
- relatively inexpensive
- strong and water-tight, takes a beating
- surface texture is pebbly
- print layers are relatively thick meaning print lines are very noticeable
- does not sand easily, surfaces are difficult to smooth
- accepts fewer primers and paints, generally only those made specifically for nylon. Few other paints will adhere to it.
- fewer adhesives work with it

In my Shapeways shop (Model Monkey), this material is only offered for very large-scale products intended for Radio Control models (<2% of my 1900+ designs). A warning about this material is included in the product description. Most of my customers are only building static display models so the other 98% of my products are only offered in "Smooth Fine Detail" and/or "Smoothest Fine Detail" acrylic. Nameplates are available in real metals like brass, bronze and silver, too.

"Smooth Fine Detail Plastic" and "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic" materials are both the same acrylic made from the same printer (the difference between them is how the print resolution is set, giving different layer thicknesses - "Smoothest" has the thinnest layers, just 16 microns). "Fine Detail" acrylic material is best for static display models.
- relatively expensive
- relatively brittle, and therefore unsuitable for radio control
- easily sandable
- cuts easily
- surfaces can be further smoothed, if desired, using an "Air Eraser" without harming detail: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-erase ... 69277.html
- uses a waxy material to support overhanging features during printing. Most, if not all, of the waxy support material is melted away in a low-temperature oven at the factory before it is shipped to the customer
- stubborn waxy bits can be cleaned easily in dish-detergent (Dawn, Fairy, Simple Green, baby shampoo, etc.) and hot water (< 175 degrees F or 79 degrees C)
- accepts many more kinds of paint including popular hobby acrylic paints and enamel paints
- must be exposed to direct sunlight or other UV light source for a few hours by the customer to fully cure the plastic, a must if using enamel paint. This is called "post-curing".
- should be painted soon after post-curing and cleaning to seal the plastic

To prepare or clean acrylic, a good "rule of thumb" to consider: if the cleaning product is known to harm Plexiglas, it is almost certain to harm "Fine Detail Plastic".

Here's a link to detailed descriptions of the various material choices offered by Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/materials

Here's a link to some other advice and FAQs as part of my shop's catalog: https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey

That advice is available in 12 languages (click the flag for language choice). Suggestions for improvements and corrections to translation errors are appreciated.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:07 pm 
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Steve,
What is the best way to remove small parts from the base? There are a lot more attachment points on the new resin 3D parts.

Thanks

Scot Chiasson.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 4:33 pm 
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Indeed!

The new resin is more brittle than injection-molded polystyrene and breaks more easily. The attachment points are designed to be smaller than the diameter of the sprue itself, and therefore weakest at the model. But since each model is a bit different, and attachment point locations vary, the answer to your question may be different for different models.

In principle, it is important to try not to stress the model part when cutting through the sprue.

General rules of thumb:
- Be patient. A rushed job is a botched job.
- Use a very sharp cutting tool, one that has a scissors motion like a cuticle clipper. Very sharp, so that you don't have to force the cut. The old saying, "let the tool do the work", applies.
- Try not to twist, push or pull when cutting. Place the tool in a good position to cut nearest the part, not the tray, and gently make the cut so as not to have to move the tool or the model when making the cut.

If you accidentally break a piece off, you can probably re-attach it using CA glue. This material does not bend, so the break itself is not likely to be deformed.

For larger, bulkier parts where there are a lot of difficult-to-reach internal sprues like a big, hollow turret, it may help to do the opposite. Consider making the first cuts nearest the tray, not the model, starting at the outside, working your way around the model, working inwards, in order to cut away the tray. Once the tray is free and clear of the model, then cut the sprues from the model making the cut near the attachment point. Again, try not to twist, pull or push.

Often times with internal supports, they can be broken free with a tweezers and pulled out without damaging the model.

Hope this helps!

For those that may not be aware, Shapeways does not offer the new gray resin material. That material is available directly from me.

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Have fun, Monkey around.

-Steve Larsen

Catalogs of over 2000 products for scale modelers:
3D-printed gray resin (best material!) - https://www.model-monkey.com/
3D-printed Shapeways' white acrylic - https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 4:52 pm 
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Thanks Steve,

I had no trouble with your larger parts using a razor saw and I've also used sharp nail clippers on some other small parts but like you pointed out, it's those smaller sprues that need patience and the right tool.

Cheers

Scot


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