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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 6:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:33 am
Posts: 8
I wanted some way to better handle a 1/700 ship model when the construction phase reached adding a number of small photo etch detail parts. I took a piece of ¼ x 1 ¼ lath, and drilled a clearance hole for a #2-56 screw. I then glued a thick piece of styrene that had been drilled and tapped to accept a #2-56 screw inside the hull. The hull was then screwed onto the piece of wood that now allowed me to handle the model safely and securely. This plate also was handy for the painting phase. Scotch blue masking tape could be used instead of 2-56 screws although I think the screws make everything more secure. I’ve also used this type of plate for 1/1200 models.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 5:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:25 am
Posts: 2256
Location: Los Angeles and Houston
Where do you get 1/1200 models (please don't say Navis/Neptun)?

MB

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Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 10:08 am 
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Joined: Thu May 30, 2013 1:50 pm
Posts: 1980
For water-lined 1/700 I glue the upper hull to a piece of sheet styrene, just a bit bigger than the model. That remains part of the model and gets covered with "water" when placed in a dio. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:33 am
Posts: 8
Mostly scratchbuilt out of either balsa or basswood.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 6:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:33 am
Posts: 8
I should have been more specific. I used plans from John Bowen's book Waterline Ship Models and plans from Modelcraft 1/1200 Maritime Plans.


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