The Ship Model Forum

Hi all,

New to 1/350 ship models (and plastic ship models in general) and part-way through my first builds. As I seem to be focusing on dreadnought and pre-1945 ships, there's lots of rigging involved.

So interested to know what others use for rigging, both the standing rigging/wires and any finer running rigging (for sail handling, signal hoists, cranes, etc)?

I have considered getting some of the smaller EZ-Line, or are there other materials that are suitable (and maybe available from craft/sewing stores)? I considered fishing line or leaders but have only seen them in clear, not black or brown...unless anyone has a source for these?

Anyway, just keen to see what others find works best (i.e. easy to use) and looks right.

Thanks

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Melbourne, Australia

Current builds:
- 1/350 SMS Vulkan sub tender
- 1/350 Chen Yuen Ironclad
- 1/72 Gato Class Submarine

The thinnest consistent-diameter material you can buy is UNI's Caenis line, a fly-tying line that comes in both white and black. It's super cheap if you can find it in stores (was only $2 when I got it). It's not stretchy, so its thinness doesn't depend on your putting extra stress on the masts/attachment points. It adheres using regular PVA/white glue as well as superglue.

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De quoi s'agit-il?

I used to use EZline. The finest is a little too thick in 1/350, but acceptable. Even though it stretches, it will pull on tall or very thin masts. If you have eye problems, forget about Caenis; it's finer than human hair! I've been using stretched sprue exclusively, although for a beginner, it will take some practice.

Have a look at this


http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/


Fellow modelwarshiper Alexander Glas( Moelders ) has formed a company to supply
modelmakers with various useful products

among them this rather useful rigging material

http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/

works well for 1/350 -in conjunction with Caenis or stretched sprue
I have used it on a as yet still incomplete model (!! )

works well!

but meanwhile in 1/700 I am still an advocate for sprue

( my step by step for sprue here ==> viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37536

good luck

Jim Baumann

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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

Wire, wire, wire....
A bit harder to fix than stretched sprue but easier to get...

For 1/350 0.1mm bras wire works pretty easy. I wired my Takao in 3 hours...

Whatever you will choose - have fun !

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...in my shipyard...

i second the 0,1 mm wire. Very easy for lengths up to 10-12cm. Cut, roll it with a piece of glass on your desk (i use a piece from a photo frame), cut to desired length, and you're done.

For longer lengths i use wig hair. You can stretch them with heat afterwards just like stretched sprue.

My Borodino was rigged with the above. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=160081

I got some of this, and it is really good, really fine, as fine as the best stretched sprue I could make, but is consistent. I attached it with a tiny dot of PVA, worked perfectly with instant 'grab' and quick setting, leaving almost no trace of the glue.

I haven't tried Uni-Caenis yet. Is it heat shrinkeable like stretched sprue?

Yes.

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De quoi s'agit-il?

Thansk! Now I'm interested indeed, especially for longer lengths...

I did a fair bit of rigging with Uni-Caenis yesterday, it really is good stuff, incredibly fine, very strong, and easily attached with a dot of PVA. Some of it (used as stays) was actually too fine, but is easy to run a brush of acrylic paint along the length of the line after fitting to build it up a little.

As for shrinking with heat, it works like magic! I attached the lines mostly with soft curves in them and some with soft bends at the attachment point, and a bit of heat tightened them all up perfectly. I just used a small metal modelling spike (like a large pin with a handle), just heat the end for 5-10 seconds with a lighter, and pass the spike close to and along the lines and watch them instantly tighten (being careful not to get the spike too close to or touch the line).