The Ship Model Forum

The Ship Modelers Source
It is currently Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:24 am

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:03 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2016 10:56 pm
Posts: 3
Hi guys!

This will be a long post, but I hope to get a lot of help! I needed a hobby, and I love warships, so I decided to do model making of some of my favorite warships! For my first project ever, I (either bravely or stupidly) choose the new Hasegawa 1/350 Shimakaze Late Type Destroyer.


I just got it today and after looking at the instructions, I have a lot of questions.

So in general,

what kind of general tools do I need to get to start making models?

How to assemble the turrets in a way that it will still turn? I heard cement melts the plastic so do I just not glue it onto the ship?

I see the paint requirement that they listed in the Hasegawa guide book, but how do I look for the Tamiya version of the paint ( or paint in general)?

With the photo etch and Linoleum deck, do I put that before or after I paint the ship?

What is the purpose of washing it (both plastic model kit itself and the Linoleum deck and photo etch) in warm soapy water and then air drying it?

Lastly, do I paint the individual parts before gluing everything together, or do I paint it after I assemble everything and use painting masking tape to cover things I don't need painted while painting?

Is there any other general things I should know about that I did not think of asking?

I would really appreciate your expertise and advice!

Regards,

wha2les


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:09 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2014 10:00 pm
Posts: 503
Location: Richmond, VA, USA
The most basic tools are: hobby knives (some folks use surgical scalpels instead), sanding sticks and/or files, and some way to apply glue / cement in very controlled ways. A few models may require a few drill bits and a pin vise. I think that almost everyone works on a self-healing cutting mat. That's pretty basic, and it will get you pretty far. There's also the matter of painting, which often includes an airbrush (with the absolutely mandatory cleaning kit), and some very fine (small) paint brushes. For photo etch, you need some different glue, possibly some different blades for the knives, and I prefer to use a folding tool. You will want a hard plastic surface to cut the PE, as the self-healing mat will cause PE to bend uncontrollably as you cut it. The different glue or glues may also imply some different applicators.

You can usually arrange for the turrets to turn by simply not gluing them to the deck - that's actually what the real ships did, although admittedly there was rather less chance of the real ship turning over and having them fall off! :heh: In most cases you can easily arrange for a little plastic "inverted mushroom" that retains the turret but still allows it to rotate.

There are a variety of resources for figuring out which paint from which vendor is like that paint from another vendor. One of them is here: http://www.paint4models.com/

Photo etch varies widely. Some PE parts really need to go on pretty early, else you'll have a terrible time doing it later after other parts go around it. Some other parts (railings around the bow or quarter deck) really should be almost last as you'll destroy them trying to build other parts of the model. Some folks paint the PE before it goes on, others later, and again sometimes it depends on just which part you're considering.

Washing the model gets skin oil and other similar stuff (release compound) off of the surface before painting. Even if the paint sticks to the oil (most doesn't, or at least not very well), the oil definitely doesn't stick to the model permanently, so it's important to get it all off before painting or else you could end up with (say) a thumbprint - or more likely an overlapping batch of thumbprints - "etched" into the paint as the oil detaches and takes the paint with it. (Or the paint may never have stuck to begin with.) The air drying, of course, is to prevent getting MORE oil onto the model.

You might try David Griffith's Ship Models from Kits. It goes over all of this (and a lot more, like rigging and water).

_________________
... Brian
Laid down: BB-63 Missouri
Clearing the slip: BB-67 Montana


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: TZombie and 8 guests


You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group