The Ship Model Forum

Recently, there have been a number of posts and questions about simulating hull plating on our models. What I'd like to do is, get everyone's input for the different methods they use for this, and I'd like to eventually add it to the Tips Section, or maybe the FAQ.

I'd like to cover these areas;

Hull plating on 1/700 or smaller
Hull plating on 1/350
Hull plating on larger scales

I've seen some discussion about stretched sprue, primer and tape, and ARH's use of litho plate on his large scale R/C. What methods have you used successfully? What methods were disastrous for you?

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Sean Hert

Using 0.3mm or 0.14 mm styrene strips to simulate 1/350 scale plating has been disastrous near the bow and stern of ships with complex hull curvature, such as Yamato. It is difficult to correctly locate the strips on sections of hull with complex curvature. It is also very difficult to glue the edge of the strips down so the strips follows the hull curvature in the vertical direction. Will try spray can Mr Surfacer next.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

Can you elaborate on this technique?

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Sean Hert

I intend to use this technique to simulate the style of plating involving alternate bands of raised and recessed plates. AS I understand it, Mr. Surfacer is a lacquers like liquid that, when applied to plastic model surfaces, drys to a hard, sandable surface that can fill gaps the cover minor imperfections. I will use tape to mask the portion of the hull surface where the platings are recessed, and spray the hull with Gunzy Sanyo Mr. Surfacer 1000 spray to achieve a raised plate effect. This is the first time I will try this, and Mr. Surfacer is currently in shipment. Others on this forum suggested the technique, and would be better placed to describe it at length.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

Mr. Surfacer is actually an automotive primer, repackaged for the modeling world. I believe it's a DuPont product, but am not certain. Keith Bender does amazing plating work on his models using the masking and primer method. Someone should twist his arm to come over here and explain. I'll be using his method for my USS Essex when I get back to her.

I used two different methods for plating on the ships in my diorama on this site.

For the USS Juneau I used an extremely sharp knife blade to cut the lines into the resin. Using a very sharp blade causes the material in the cut to be pushed up on either side of the blade, leaving a ridge of material on either side of the cut. You then take thick paint or primer (I used Mr. Surfacer 500) and fill in the gap between the ridges with primer, sand it smooth as necessary. It leaves a nice raised ridge if you're going for a welded or butt-joined look.


For the USS Laffey I simply used masking tape to mark off some of the panels and airbrushed contrasting paint to simulate join lines. It's actually probably the most realistic way of doing the effect if done properly, but I need to practice on it a bit more.


-Devin

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Keith Bender creates a very nice hull plating look with automotive primer and hard plastic automotive tape. I'll e-mail him and ask him to post to this thread. Meanwhile, here's a few shots he sent me of his BB-18. You can see the hull plating on the lower portion of the hull, especially in the lower photo. I know some modelers I've spoken with think plating in 1/350 is out of scale, but personally I think it really adds a lot of visual interest to the model.

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Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

I just tried this on my current project a 1/700 resin kit of the Cruiser USS Witchta CA-45.

I first primed the entire hull with primer an let it set for few days. Using various pics of the actual ship, I measured approximately where the seams would go and marked them off in pencil. Using black electricians tape, I butted the edge of the tape against the pencil marks and lined off a seam bow to stern. I then stuck a leather needle in an old X-acto knife handle and VERY slowly using the edge of the tape as a guide, scribed a seam into the resin. I repeated this step until I could see the resin through the primer in the seam. I carefully removed the tape and re-marked the next horizontal seam and repeated the above steps curving sligtly upward when nearing the bow - trying to keep perpendicular to the line of sheer. Once satisfied with the horizontal seams, I ramdomly scribed in vertical seams between the horizonals making sure that I didn't go through two sets of horizontal seams.

After my nerves had calmed down, I painted the hull as normal. When that was dry, I gave the sides a blackwash of waterbased Burnt Umber artist's paint. A little drybrushing with a lightened version of the base coat and the overall effect is quite realistic.

Next kit what I'd like to do is try this method mixed with taping off panels and spraying a couple of coats of primer for a raised panel effect.

Steve

Tho I've never worked in 350 or 700 before, I'll throw in my 2 cents...

All theses methods SEEM to make sense, and I like the sound of them, from Mr Surfacer to slightly different colored paint to the spray and scribe. Here's my experience in 1:72 (I know, land of the GIANTS!)

I used a curved #10 blade (actually, about 10-15 of these, can only use when VERY sharp) to slightly scrape an "oil canning" effect. Came out brilliant, had many complements on RAW hull. I painted and the effect--even tho somewhat exaggerated--was almost lost. (Almost, still better than if I hadn't done it.). I ended up touching up with paint (dark for concave bits, light for ribs). Side-lighting does show up the 3-D effect, but the point is, the paint method works very well, so my guess is that is the simplest and most effective. Good luck and keep us posted!

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I have seen tape used, is it as simple as masking off a section of the hull, then spraying, then peeling off the tape and spraying again ?

Replicating hull plating on a model can be accomplished many ways.
In 1/350 scale the hull plates are very thin so the technique I chose
replicates raised strakes using various layers of sprayed-on automotive
red primer.

Careful study of photographs is necessary to learn the plating pattern and
to determine which strakes overlap the others. Notice the plating in this
photo of USS Bunker Hill:



Here's Yorktown's hull with the first three layers of strakes laid down.

Click on the thumbnail to view a larger photo





In the photos below, butt plates have been added to the hangar deck
exterior. They are cut from .010 Evergreen styrene and sanded very thin
after installation.





Hull plating detail on USS Yorktown CV-10 is complete.

Deck edge elevator rails and supports are under construction.
Upon the installation of various pipes and splinter shield ribs
the hull will be ready for paint.

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-Steve L.

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USS Yorktown's hull exterior is ready for paint.

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

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Hull of USS Yorktown in Ms. 33-10a as she appeared in April, 1945
at the time her air group, Air Group 9, helped sink Yamato.

Still some touch-up to do but hull painting is largely complete.

Click on thumbnails to see larger image



This close-up photos below show the shell plating detail to good effect:

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

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I have a liberty ship hull that is already primed, and was considering masking it off in a checkerboard fashion in the approximation of the panels. Has anyone done this? Or am I better off alternating strips laterally and scribing the vertical lines? Thanks.

IMHO, the second technique sounds like a more accurate representation of hull plating.

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Hi all ,

for my RC projects , mostly at scale 1/100 , I use paper & cardboard to represent the plating .

Cheap & it works ...

Regards ,

Laurent

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Scared of Nothing , Always Thirsty

Just call me the "Cereals Box Killer" , I guess

Just to follow up, I tried a test patch of the checkerboard thing, didn't work out. Nor did my attempt at trying to represent welds by masking spraying primer pan out - they either looked way to wide or they didn't come out at all. Needless to say the hull is sanded down again. If I attempt to represent hull plating again it will be by either scribing, or trying that new semi-decal product that has been mentioned somewhere on this board.

Thanks for the follow up! Too bad the technique didn't work out for you.

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Sean Hert

I'm going to try metal foil tape (aluminum, copper, etc). Self adhesive and should allow for better fitting.

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Building 1/200 Nichi.'45
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=152105

Hi Senkan,

Wow, about diggin' out an old topic, huh ?

my actual project, a little cargo ship at scale 1/100, paper used to simulate the plating:


Your intention to use self adhesive foil is indeed a good one, show us some pictures when you're busy at!

Regards,

Laurent

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Scared of Nothing , Always Thirsty

Just call me the "Cereals Box Killer" , I guess

I tought that my USS Oyster Bay's hull was done until I got the obsession of adding the hull plating lines.

I am afraid to death of scribing and having my scribe or knife pull away from, or go under, the tape and then having a stray scratch. I've done it many times.

So, I went with a mechanical pencil and drew the lines on, instead. It is a suttle effect. Works for me, on this one.

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Carl Musselman
(Formerly Back-Aft Models)



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