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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 2:03 pm 
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Hello Gentlemen!

I get numerous e-mails each week inquiring how I make water using the water-colour paper method.
As a result I thought it worthwhile to photo-document the procedure on my current build of HMS Scylla.
That way I can then also simply send a link to this thread! :cool_2:

HMS Scylla is being built in 1/700 scale using the WSW kit as a starting point.
For most 1/700 models I use textured watercolour paper- Bockingford Rough 140 lbs
in a block measuring 14" x 22"- available from http://www.artsupplies.co.uk/index.php
Any textured watercolour paper from any reputable manufacturer will work.

It is especially effective at depicting a calm sea with only a gentle ripple caused by a light winds, an example of which can be seen in the overhead views of my 1/700 Kolchida

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For my model of HMS Scylla I chose to set this weathered and war-weary AA cruiser at speed in a rolling lop of a sea.
But first a bit of preparation....

To prevent warpage in the resin hull years down the line, I mount all my models on a stainless steel plate, in which are are
drilled an array of countersunk holes for later screwing down.
At the beginning of the build I drill a selection of holes drilled (3mm drill bit) into the underside of the hull that correspond with the pe-drilled holes in the mounting plate.

These then have a thread cut using a No 6 pozi drive countersunk selftapping screw.

I placed the hull of the model on a well oversize piece of watercolour paper -prior to commencing construction-and drew a pencil line around at waterline
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This is then cut out using scissors( or a craftknife - to choice)- remember to mark the direction of travel/bow..!

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To simulate a long swell I then covered the entire steel plate with very high tack doublesided adhesive tape( Venture Tape) and placed cocktail sticks in the positions where I wanted the high point of the swells and hull's wave formation to be; the cocktail sticks being snipped off with a Xuron cutter.
The paper was thereafter pushed down so as to make contact with the doublesided tape.

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The paper was then placed carefully so that the pre-drilled holes in the plate lined up with the hull again as in step 1.
and the paper pushed down in between the cocktail sticks to form the desired swell

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The surplus paper is then trimmed off using a sharp blade the plate as the guide.
Because the ship is at speed the displacement waveform created would reveal parts of her red 'underbelly'..!
To achieve this I placed some styrene strips in position to raise the hull slightly within the paper cutout, these also formed the lower hull where it would be revealed-hence their positions midships had to be accurate.

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Had the decision to show the vessel in a swell been taken at the commencement of the build, I would have simply added a hull footprint sized waterline shim underneath!!!!

A testfit of the model showed all to well with levels and size.

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The entire water-seascape was the soaked in Cyanocrylite glue( superglue) to make it strong,structurally stabel and totally impervious to moisture.

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At the edges of the paper ( the sea!) there are unsightly gaps ....

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These are then filled flush with autobodyfiller, a two part polyester filler consisting of paste and hardener.

This sets firm within about 5 minutes so that the coarse trimming of any surplus can take place with ease-again using the stainless mounting plate as the knife guide.
Within 10 minutes the reaction is complete and final trimming and a light sand can take place.
there are a number of Body-filler makes available, in the UK I use Isopon P 38 or Plastic Padding. In the USA understand a popular make to be 'Bondo'

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The model is then glued and screwed; having first ensured there are no areas that require work that may need access to undercuts or overhangs..!( the waterline plate restricts this type of access severely!)

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Any gaps that may appear between the hull and the paper water are filled using white glue to spanseptember 2008 the gap.

The technique that seems works best is to make a number of small' bridges' with a small dollop of white glue; once these are partially set, infill the spaces between using thinned white glue allowing the 'glue bridges' to make the frame required for the surface tension to span any gaps.

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The bow wave and wake patterns are then added using Acrylic texture paste, I prefer the Daler-Rowney variant-it is easy to use, fast-drying and dries matt, so unlike glossy variants of acrylic gels it can maintain very fine curls and undercut bow-waves, as well as having a 'sharper' appearance when used for the crests of breaking water on the wake.



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The water is now essentially complete. I shall now finish the model to the flatcoated-but-not-rigged stage

Colouring the water and finishing the wakes will be the subject of PART TWO
right here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37406

Jim Baumann :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 3:15 am 
Hi Jim
so that's how you do it very informative
gary


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:08 am 
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Thank you, Jim, great technique and fantastic pictures of your HMS Scylla dio.

I already put this text into my "treasury" of tips&ticks on my PC. Waiting to see Part II.

Just a question for Part I. From reading the text I understand that this technique works great for relatively calm sea. Did you useit for making stormy sea? Or watercolor paper is not the best medium for stormy sea? (Sorry for stupid question if you have already placed pictures of watercolor-paper-stormy-sea on MW).

Thank you again.

Yevgeniy


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 10:34 am 
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Great stuff Jim, thanks for sharing. Looking forward to Pt II!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 10:58 am 
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Thank You very much Jim. :woo_hoo: :woo_hoo:
I was looking for this technique,my Achilles ankle is water,I'm afraid to destroy my so so ships with a trully horrible water diorama ,hope to see more Jim :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:50 pm 
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@ Yevgeniy

There are a number of ways of simulating rougher water.

I personally like using autobodyfiller- sets fast and sculpts quite well

In my build article of HMS Mary Rose I detailed what I did with it!
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... eview.html

Image

Modelwarship colleague Rainer Michalek is an exponent of the 'German' Silicone clear sealer method.
He presented an article here at MW.com on how he does it!

http://www.modelwarships.com/features/h ... index.html

Cheers

Jim Baumann

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:16 am 
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Thank you, Jim.

I like both methods: yours and Rainer's. You achieve incredible realism. :thumbs_up_1:

Yevgeniy


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:32 am 
Hi Jim,

what a wonderful job. Your water design is very realistic. You're just a true champion.

Many greetings

Rainer :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 4:34 am 
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This is a verry useful thread. just a beginner so would very much like to see more about making sea bases. When will we get part two, Im eager to get into this. Verry grateful for this tutorial.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:08 am 
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@ Silent one...

:welcome: :welcome: to Modelwarships.com

HMS Scylla is now essentially finished.just a few last tiny issued to clear up

I shall flat-coat it at the weekend-and then the water surface gets further work to completion.
Thereafter I shall document it here early next week.

Thank for your interest

JIM B :smallsmile:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:52 am 
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Simply incredible--surfed your other models on your website and am amazed at your skill and dedication.

Will take my hopelessly crude pond boat query down to the local hardware store and leave you all to you amazing craftsmanship!

cheers, :smallsmile:
Reuben


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 11:21 am 
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Looking forward to the "final" update Jim
Keep up
:wave_1:
Rui

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:00 am 
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Hi all

the model is now finished except for the rigging--and the finishing of the water can now be seen here:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37406

:wave_1: JIM B

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 12:45 pm 
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Jim,

Thanks indeed for an excellent article.

One small point - I think the paper is Bockingford Rough rather than Rockingford. Might save some time for anyone trying to find some!

Francis Macnaughton


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 5:50 pm 
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Francis wrote:

<< the paper is Bockingford Rough rather than Rockingford.>>

you are of course absolutely correct- my typo... duh!

>> Might save some time for anyone trying to find some!<<

and then some!

thanks for the observation!

JIM B :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 5:03 pm 
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Hi Jim-

Thanks for the great ideas, I think I shall try it- I have a question though, before I try your method-

What type of superglue do you use, and how do you apply it to the paper? I am assuming you use a non-viscous type, but was curious on your technique, as I have never saturated anything other than my floor with the stuff! Does the paper just absorb it on its own?

Thanks, and regards,

Timothy


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:03 pm 
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I use some industrial stuff as used by double glazing installers...

A near equivalent would be the ZAP runny(made by Pacer) in a pink bottle.

The paper sucks the CA up like sponge--making it impervious to moisture and really quite strong too!.

JIM B :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:33 am 
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Hu Jim :wave_1: ,

Your two threads on how you make water from art paper are really interesting. I was originally thinking of using the Oats Bran technique as so ably explained by Chris, but am thinking of trying yours first for my 1/1250 scale ships.

Before doing this, I wonder if you could just clarify how you soak the paper with the CA glue? Do you paint it on, squirt the stuff over the paper, or are you doing it in some other way?

And since I'm pestering you anyway, one more thing won't make much difference... would there be any chance you could add a link to where you get the glue? I seem to only find it in small tubes, and never thin viscosity for some reason in Northern Ireland. This is another reason why I've put the Oats Bran Method on the back burner at the moment.

Thanks!


Last edited by Cuchulainn1795 on Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:07 am 
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I buy pink ZAP ( by pacer ) its very runny-and very pongy--work in well ventilated area!!!

I spread it with a pice of styrene and or toothpick ( no absorbent--sont use a brush or paper!! )

buying it large bottles moderates the price well...

In Northern Ireland...?

dunno...
THESE GUYS SHIP to all UK

http://www.modelshop.co.uk/Content/Dyna ... _4Dcat.pdf

( PAGE 7 OF 167! )




as below


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:32 pm 
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Excellent Jim, your most helpful reply is very much appreciated! :wave_1:


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