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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:30 am 
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Location: Seattle, Wa.
Cliffy,
Here are the three that I use.

Gloss Gel for flat seas.
Gloss Super Heavy Gel for larger waves and wakes.
Modeling Paste for larger waves and wakes. These are made by adding more thin layers.

Attachment:
stuff.jpg
stuff.jpg [ 114.69 KiB | Viewed 9746 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:52 pm 
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Hey Jim. I'm sorry for butting in on your thread, but for those who are more on the lazy side (ME!), I have found a good source.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=50766

Woodland Scenics has a really good line of products, and for those who also do armor, they are probavly the best.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:03 am 
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Location: Leeds, UK.
Slightly off topic but still model sea-water related, does anyone know of any suppliers of 1:350 dolphins?

I think I know the answer and will probably need to scratch build some if I want any, but they may look good leaping out the surf of a bow wave as often seen in warmer waters.

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Photo courtesy of Royal Australian Navy

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Photo courtesy of ketosecology.co.uk


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:43 am 
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Bill Code or Jose or anyone, do you guys have any pictures of how you used fthe foam and what type. like a step by step??

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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 1:26 pm 
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Thundergrunt-

Try this:

http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=119817&page=4

If any problem, please dont hesitate to ask.

Cheers,
Guido

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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 8:07 pm 
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Guido

Danke,danke,Danke absolutely great thank you.!!!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 8:32 pm 
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Here is a compedium of Frank Spahr's techniques that I found interesting:
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&langpair=de%7Cen&u=http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php%3Foption%3Dcom_content%26view%3Darticle%26id%3D1922:wassergestaltung-wieder-einmal-etwas-anders-frank-spahr%26catid%3D257:tipps-a-tricks-fuer-plastikmodelle&rurl=translate.google.com&client=tmpg&usg=ALkJrhhqkUaJlKzFQe0lKj3kdRAhYdpevg
Hope you'll find some useful ideas, just like me.
Thanks, Frank
Jorge


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 10:23 pm 
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The pictures don't load after Google translates the page :( Could you provide the original link please? I tried to find it but Google added way too much stuff onto it for the translation.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:20 am 
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Hi, Cliff!
This is it:

http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php?op ... tikmodelle

Cheers,
Guido

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:24 am 
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Woops!
Seems that Modellmarine does not allow hotlinking at all:

Go to
http://www.modellmarine.de/
then left column
"Tipps, Tricks & Werkzeug"
then
"Tipps & Tricks für Plastikmodelle"

Franks Article is the first one in the list.

HTHH
Cheers,
Guido

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 3:29 am 
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Guido - Just had a flutter around that ''German'' model site is it, many fine and wonderful looking projects. Is the site purely German speaking only ? :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 5:32 am 
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All German, indeed.
Guido

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:03 pm 
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Can anyone suggest paint colors to use for a North Atlantic, overcast skies, waterline diorama? Common hobby shop brand paints (enamel or acrylic) like Model Master, Polly Scale, etc.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 12:38 am 
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Hi, Carl!
Ever since seeing the scene from "Das Boot", when the two subs meet mid ocean by pure chance, I thought that the best colous for the Atlantic are greenish grey and greyish green on a black backdrop.

Image

Image

Cheers,
Guido

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:43 am 
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rea00cy wrote:


Thanks from me, Jorge!

An English version of my method is to be found at the FWL website, as listed by Jim in the first post.

http://www.finewaterline.com/pages/tips&tricks/fswater/fswater.htm

Best regards

Frank

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 3:06 pm 
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I answered another members question awhile back. Describes my step by step process, with pictures, using aluminum foil, paint, Modge Podge, and Acrylic Gel. Its pretty simple and gives good results.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=111727

Hope it helps

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http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=146736


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:47 pm 
Gentlemen:
As a rule I never stick my nose into anything, I'm a lurker. But, I feel bad about something, years ago I promised to find the perfect way to model water, I found it, and in the process lost some friends. So here goes, while taking some art related courses, mold making, lost wax to be exact, I cast an 18 inch chunk of ocean in glass, with a bronze whale diving through it. Next was the "proof" piece, a 6 inch wax square with a 1/700 Alpha. Perfection!
The only other model I built was a "from scratch" Cyclops from a Stan Mott, Road & Track cartoon using telephone parts.
The tools you need are a wood burning tool with changable tips, metal double ended scupting tools(cut them in half and fit into wood burner). A variable power source. These are for smaller scales. For larger scales an alcohol lamp and an assortment of spoon sizes.
When you work the wax it's liquid, as soon as you remove the heat it freezes in place. You can move large amounts or very small bits, vary the heat to change the effects. Use low heat and "pop" the tool off the surface and you get the amazing vein texture that makes the water come alive. The more you work it the more tricks you'll learn. Stipple the foam with white paint, no gloss, all the other water is glossed over.
Experiment with differant waxes & paints. Dyes/tinted wax will bleed into paint, you can play with white drier lint (after you remove the hair & dingleberries), and cut brush bristles for spray & splashes depending on scale. Any time you want to change it, repair it, add to it, you can. To tint you might try blending crayons into melted wax.
You can use a solid chunk or any base you want, use glass or plastic and sculpt above and below the surface with the ship suspended in it. To melt larger amounts you need a crock pot, don't inhale the fumes, wax will stay in the lungs, it smells nice!
Got that off my chest, I felt bad all these years reading about the problems model makers have with water. I have seen some great water, but no matter what you use if it don't look like the picture.....
Good luck
al


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:55 am 
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Make a tutoril video and put it oin youtube!
Don't forget to post a link to it here! ;)
Cheers,
Guido

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Veritable Modelling Friends 2006, Germany

Never wear your best trousers when you go out to fight for freedom and truth. - H. IBSEN

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCk8zhb1sc4Pe3BRLqq3d-SQ


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:16 am 
Guido:
Sorry, don't have a clue when it comes to that u-tube/post/link stuff. I lurk, already crossed the line, but I will answer questions if I can. My teaching methods upset people, but I get the point across. Great job on the U Boat diorama, play with some wax, do some test shots, then try a clear skim coat. You'll see how easy it is, or not.
Just wanted to put the info out there for you artists to play with, I don't want my finger prints on anyones art. Also don't need people mad at me for the "bad" advice I gave them.
al


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 4:27 pm 
Gentlemen:
My last post didn't show up, so I'll try again. For the best results the tools should be metal and "spoon" shaped.
I also found myself nodding out because of the calming soothing repetitious wave forming, you might consider coffee or an energy drink .
If you need some help with the type or tinting/painting of the wax I suggest you visit an art supply store, not a hobby shop. Many artists sculpt, paint, make molds with wax and may have some helpful tips. The people working in the store can also be very helpful.
Most of the time people think of modelling as kid stuff, and treat you as some kind of goofball, not an artist. In my humble opinion most of the artists I've met act like spoiled children, and model making is as close to "fine art" as you can get, then again who am I to judge...
al


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