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 Post subject: model diorama
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:25 am 
Hey guys,

I have a diecast model of the battleship Yamato and will be getting the light cruiser Yahagi and 3 destroyers and I was just wondering how you would go about making a diorama.

What's the best material to use. I'm assuming I can use a plank of wood but what would be best used to replicate the ocean and the wakes of the ships?

Any advice would greatly be appreciated.



Rick


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 8:52 am 
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Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne, England
For the sea base, there are numerous methods but a lot of people use acrylic gel which is easy to use can be shaped before it sets - you should be able to get it at your local artists supplier.

HTH

John


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 5:53 pm 
I live in a small town and I have yet to see an art store. Would foil paper spray painted in blue work well to replicate the ocean? I think I have a pretty good idea of what to use for the wakes. Perhaps a fine white powder would do the trick.

Anyway, if you have more feedback, it would be great. Thanks!



Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 1:41 am 
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Foil paper can certainly act as a good starting point, in fact, I'm using it on my latest diorama. Heres a pic of what it looks like with the first base coat of blue down:

Image

An alternative to acrylic gel is clear silicon sealer that you use to seal around baths.

HTH

John


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:29 am 
That looks very good indeed. So what did you use for the coat of blue?



Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:32 am 
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It's phthalo blue (phthalocyanine) acrylic paint - needs a lot more painting to get the final effect.

If you do decide to go this route, I've found it's best to put down an initial coat of white as a basecoat.

HTH

John


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:03 pm 
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The cheapest method is one introduced by Frank Isle. You paint board with acrylic paint and cover it with clear silicone from Home Depot. Here is my Slava on a such base.

Image

Image

Here is his article.
http://www.carrierbuilders.net/articles/20050526_Realistic_Water/20050526_Realistic_Water.htm

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Last edited by 350z on Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:57 pm 
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Looks great 350z

John


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:02 pm 
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I used Frank IlseĀ“s method too and got very pleasing results. This is my first attempt ever at building water:

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

It is quite easy and quick to build. I keep thanking Frank for his article, which pushed me to do it.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 3:33 pm
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Location: linz/vienna austria
also only can recommend franks method! easy, cheap and good looking!!


http://photobucket.com/albums/a336/stu_ ... 010118.jpg



http://photobucket.com/albums/a336/stu_ ... 010116.jpg


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:59 pm 
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All very nice but I think Tony Bunch does the most realistic water.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:16 am 
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coberg1 wrote:
All very nice but I think Tony Bunch does the most realistic water.


This is not a contest for most realistic water.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:45 am 
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I have tried a number of different ways to model water, celluclay, sculpey clay, gel medium and I always dislike it and try adding something else or starting over. I was eventually satisfied with the results of my 1/350th Missouri's water base seen in the gallery under my name. I started with a board with a blue base then tried the celluclay which is a form of paper mache, painted the celluclay and wasn't satisfied, it then cracked after drying so I applied gel medium over the celluclay for depth and then dry brushed over the gel medium with a really watered down sea blue and white for white caps. Do whatever you think will look good and just give it your damnedess.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:02 pm 
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Apologies for resurecting this thread but, having no acrylic gel to hand I've just tried a slight variation on Franks method and I have to say the results are the best water I've ever managed.

First, I crumpled tin foil into a ball and the flattened it out and stuck it to my base - this leaves plenty wrinkles in the foil to represent waves. Next, I cut out spaces for the ships, then painted as per Frank's method. I then added a coat of gloss acrylic varnish before adding the silicon again, as per Frank's method.

Still got to do the whitecaps and the wakes but it's a simple, effective method that also happens to be a LOT cheaper than acrylic gel.

John


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