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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:32 pm 
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Your best source would probably be the Anatomy of the Ship Intrepid book and this report.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:41 am 
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Don't know if this has been addressed here before, but 60-some pages is a bit long to scroll through. I just picked up the Trump Yorktown (1/350) and am looking to acquire additional A/C sets to bulk up the deck load. Were SBD's still employed on the Yorktown after her mid 1944 refit, which the kit represents, and if so, at what point did the switch-over to Helldivers occur? Thanks in advance for the assistance.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:40 am 
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PeteM wrote:
Were SBD's still employed on the Yorktown after her mid 1944 refit, which the kit represents, and if so, at what point did the switch-over to Helldivers occur? Thanks in advance for the assistance.


Hi Pete!

Actually the kit doesn't accurately represent Yorktown for either 1944 or 1945.
The kit contains a mix of 1944 and 1945 features. See here for details:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=32648

Air Group 5 was the last Group to use SBDs aboard Yorktown. Air Group 5 was
relieved by Air Group 1 on 14 May 1944 while the ship was at Pearl Harbor. Air
Group 5 returned home. On the way to Pearl Harbor to swap air groups, the
SBDs were sent to Majuro and taken over by the Marines. The new Air Group,
Air Group 1, embarked aboard Yorktown at Pearl Harbor and consisted of 36
F6F Hellcats, 36 SB2C Helldivers and 18 TBM Avengers ("The Fighting Lady",
page 138). There has been some discussion that it is possible a few SBDs
remained aboard after May 1944 but so far no photographic or other evidence
has been found to confirm this.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Thanks Steve. Some very interesting stuff there.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:11 am 
Thank you Tracy, the report is so helpful.
Jonason


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:14 pm 
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I've completed weathering the flight deck on my 1/350 Yorktown. You can see a pic here:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=32648&p=216974#p216974

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:55 pm 
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Steve - I like it - I like it a lot. :heh:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:17 pm 
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Great job Steve!!!! Your attention to detail is amazing! I hope mine will look even close to that good!?! Which color blue did you choose for the flight deck color? And would all flight decks of that time period get the same color? The weathering is hard to duplicate, even the difference between the tie downs (steel) and the planking(wood). To me the picture of Randolph's weathering looks reddish-purple - where would that color come from, or is it just the film?

Capt652

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:56 pm 
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Thanks, Timm and jgrease!

Capt652 wrote:
Which color blue did you choose for the flight deck color? And would all flight decks of that time period get the same color?


According to noted naval historian Alan Raven the correct color for mid-1944 through 1945 is #21 Flight Deck stain (revised). He states, "About mid 1944 there was the introduction of #21 Flight Deck stain (revised). This revised stain was (when newly applied) identical to 20B deck Blue (revised) and was a near match in service with the introduction in March 1944 of glossy Sea Blue, a new camouflage color for use on carrier aircraft." You can read more of this discussion on
ShipCamouflage.com

WEM has this color in its colourcoats line of enamels and I highly recommend it as accurate. Since I airbrush indoors and we have lots of small kids, I choose to use acrylics instead of enamels. So as a substitute for WEM's #21 in acrylics, I chose Polly Scale "Weather Deck Blue 20-B" which, IMHO, is an acrylic that closely approximates #21 Flight Deck stain (revised).

Capt652 wrote:
To me the picture of Randolph's weathering looks reddish-purple - where would that color come from, or is it just the film?


Not sure, I'll have to defer to others for an opinion.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:22 pm 
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Steve, thanks for checking the color that you used. I bought my paint quite a while ago so I checked to see what I had purchased and found that I have the same Polly Scale 20B paint. I used the same rational choosing water based instead of enamels. I haven't airbrushed in a while (years) and I am almost ready to start with painting the various parts. I have a lot of PE installed but I think it should go OK as I will be painting the ship in 5N overall and so I should be able to take my time and using a very narrow pattern cover the areas without gooping all the small details. I'm doing the full hull version so I'll paint the bottom anti-fouling red, the sides and undersides 5N and then the hanger deck bulkheads white by paint brush. Then I'll paint the horizontal flight deck surfaces 20B so I can glue on the flight deck and finish all the PE catwalks, railings, and antennas . I am afraid that until the flight deck is attached to the ship there would be too much flex for the PE catwalks to handle with out either kinking or popping off.

Capt652

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:59 am 
Hello Molders, Great grandmother from Augsburg, spouse from Detter(Mueller), and my dad USN Vet WWII Pacific theatre (father Leroy Simon Hufnagel Seaman 2nd LST-587 (deceased), (mother Ada Mae Mueller) Check out USS Yorktown CV-10 Gallery this site for tribute from their son. It is truly a small world. Keith Hufnagel . . . USA , World . . . Our world


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:40 pm 
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Keith, your Yorktown is a masterpiece. An example of fine Bavarian engineering.

Your build is an inspiration for mine. I posted a few more pics here of work done on the flight deck:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=32648&p=217706#p217706

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:47 pm 
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hey guys i've been taking a while to get started on the Intrepid for my father. i've been gathering the differnt photo etch parts to uprade it,and i've also been moving. now that everyting is here though i've decided to start at the front and work my way back. right now i've started on the "ground tackle?" area at the bow of the ship. the best reference of this area that i have is TAOS book page 68

http://www.myrtsweb.com/upload/raser13/images/pg68.jpg

i've started by filing off that incedious chain detail that they had molded into the part and replacing it with real chain. i also cut off the dimples that were molded on the part wich were to represent the "wildcats?". i then filed them down to wafer thin. drilled two holes throught the deck where the dimples were and ran some peices of paperclips through the holes and glued the wafers back on top to create what i thought was a better representation of them. i then filed off the rectangles that they had as "blinkers?", drilled holes in the deck,ran the chain through, and then fashioned my own blinkers. this was to give a better impression that the chain was going into the deck,and to get a better shape on the "blinkers?"

http://www.myrtsweb.com/upload/raser13/images/groundtackle.jpg
http://www.myrtsweb.com/upload/raser13/images/groundtackle1.jpg

i was wondering if anyone would have better images of this area of the ship. the diagram in the book is good but doesn't have any detail. like stairwells,walk ways,other equipment that was in this area,and such. any help in this arena would be greatly apreciated. also how was the anchor stored on these vessels? was it just reeled all the way up into the "hawse pipe?" untill it basicly bottomed out? or was it left just dangling next to the side of the ship just before it reached the "hawse pipe?"? or was there some sort of tiedown cables that brought it in and held it to the side of the ship. all of the pictures i have are too far away, or to blurry to make out this detail. BTW i'm verry new to most nautical terms and as such only have the book to learn from. i have put the term for these items in the "item?" format. if any of these names are wrong please correct me. also if there is a better understood nickname let me know so i can better communicat with you all and ask better questions.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:00 pm 
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Fine Art Models does an Intrepid and there's one at a nearby museum... I'll try and get pictures for you. It's generally well researched, although we've managed to update the camouflage information enough the last couple of years that we know they got that wrong. I can't promise anything as it's behind glass in a somewhat darkened room, but I've been able to shoot it before with a point & click and get good results.

The anchors were secured in the hawse pipes; you would not want anything that big, heavy, and sharp swinging freely.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:23 pm 
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here's another off the wall question. does anyone know what the patch for the intrepid looked like for WW-II during '44-'48? a drawing, a picture, the actual patch? thanks in advance.

tracy that would be great if you would do that for me.BTW that ship is HUGE!!!!!! :big_eyes: if you can get more detail pics of the other areas of the ship i'd love it.

glad to hear that the book is semi back on track!!! can't wait to get a copy!!

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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 2:32 pm 
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I've got to comment.....

That CV-10 posted on 4-28-08 by Ortinger Hubert is, well, beyond compliment! I think I broke David Blaine's record for not breathing (something like 17 minutes underwater), not by holding my breath, but by trying to catch my breath! I started looking at all the fine details, the paint, the weathering.... my heart started to palpitate, the cold sweat started, had to change my t-shirt from the drool. I'm thinking - as I look at MY work - how the hell am I going to be able to post my finished model when these others are so so good? Mr. Hubert is right there at the top, it don't get any better. My hat is off to you sir!

Capt652

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Learn something new about the ship or your job every day. Ignorance is not bliss aboard a warship in wartime. Ignorance could cost the life of yourself, a shipmate, or the loss of the ship.
- Personal Information Booklet CV- 38


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 5:45 pm 
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o.k guys, i was at gold medal models looking at some photo etch to kick this up a notch and saw this

http://www.goldmm.com/ships/gms7032.htm

would this work on a dragon 1/700 lexington kit that i'm converting to be a late war intrepid kit. i know that it's made for the trumpeter kit but same ship same scale should match up right?or would this be a better kit to invest in?

http://www.goldmm.com/ships/gms7usac.htm
also i saw that the gentleman that runs gmm was in the hospital and shut down for a good reason. is he back up and running? or do i need to wait to place an order? if he is still out of commition is there somewhere to get a comperable kit for this model? i've already spent 4 mounths trying to move instead of working on this. if i'm going to fininsh on time i need to get going.i'm not used to this kind of build up so it'll take me a while.

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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 5:49 pm 
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Loren Perry, owner of GMM, is back and running, so you should be able to order with no problems.

The first set you posted is for the Lexington CV-2 and Saratoga CV-3. The Dragon Lexington kit is of CV-16, an Essex class, so the second link you posted would be more suitable.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 11:42 am 
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allrighty, i thought the first was for the cv-16 lexington(essex class)my oops! another noob question. i've seen all of these photo etch kits with ladders and raillings and such,where do you guys get your catwalks?(if the wrong name let me know the right one. just what i know to call them)i haven't seen any kits with them yet. if you can steer me in the right direction i would appreciate it. i just don't know where to search these things out. if it were sci-fi i could hook it up. not so good at real world stuff.

on another note, that CV-10 posted on 4-28-08 by Ortinger Hubert is stunning! i only wish i could do a ship in 1/350. i just can't put that under the display i have planed.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 6:11 pm 
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You might Try Tom's Modelworks Set #742 - US Carrier Catwalks.
His Set 700 - US Carrier also comes with some.

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