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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:29 pm 
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Yet more questions, this time concerning the Bridge Wind Deflectors installation.

The plans for GMMs Gold Plus 1/350 Essex Extra Details Set say about the Bridge Wind Deflectors, "These wind deflectors require a high degree of skill to apply properly and are therefore recommended for expert modelers only."

Well, I am by no means an expert modeler, but it's almost as if they threw down the gauntlet, and I was giving some thought about maybe trying it. What's the worst that can happen? It looks like crap and I have to rip it off, re-sand and re-paint, which obviously is not desireable, but not the end of the world either.

On the other hand I have seen some really nice models by better modelers than myself that don't seem to have them installed, which brings me to my questions:
1) Is it way hard? Remember, this is my third ship with PE.
2) What is the best way to do it? I was thinking that you would bend the deflector to match the surface it is mounting to, then use 4 or 5 of the supports to tack it in place and then fill in the rest of the supports. Does this sound reasonable, or is there a better way?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:28 pm 
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Rdutnell wrote:
Yet more questions, this time concerning the Bridge Wind Deflectors installation.

The plans for GMMs Gold Plus 1/350 Essex Extra Details Set say about the Bridge Wind Deflectors, "These wind deflectors require a high degree of skill to apply properly and are therefore recommended for expert modelers only."

Well, I am by no means an expert modeler, but it's almost as if they threw down the gauntlet, and I was giving some thought about maybe trying it. What's the worst that can happen? It looks like crap and I have to rip it off, re-sand and re-paint, which obviously is not desireable, but not the end of the world either.

On the other hand I have seen some really nice models by better modelers than myself that don't seem to have them installed, which brings me to my questions:
1) Is it way hard? Remember, this is my third ship with PE.
2) What is the best way to do it? I was thinking that you would bend the deflector to match the surface it is mounting to, then use 4 or 5 of the supports to tack it in place and then fill in the rest of the supports. Does this sound reasonable, or is there a better way?


Each carrier had their own configuration to use of wind deflectors, so much so that it is one of the many ways to 'at a glance' identify which one of the 24 carriers you are looking at.

As far as the GMM PE is concerned, all those tiny, tiny little itty bitty pieces are maddening to work with. I know - I started and failed many times, I finally gave up with much frustration :Mad_5: :Mad_6: :Tirade: :mad_1: and consumed alcohol :tongue: :dead: . And then I didn't look back...

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Learn something new about the ship or your job every day. Ignorance is not bliss aboard a warship in wartime. Ignorance could cost the life of yourself, a shipmate, or the loss of the ship.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:54 pm 
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That is precisely the kind of thing I was wondering about. I think I'll avoid the frustration :Mad_5: :Mad_6: :Tirade: :mad_1: and consumed alcohol. OK, maybe not the consumed alcohol.
:thumbs_up_1:

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In Progress:
1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)
1/144 USS Greenling (SSN-614) - ACAD/3D Printing
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:57 pm 
Hi,
I've been looking to get a good 1/700th Essex, and my skill level is "beginner", what would you recommend between the Trumpeter and Dragon models please ?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:38 pm 
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I don't know about the Trumpeter kit, but I think you would have a lot of fun with the Dragon kit. My dad and I got it and the PE is included. Unfortunately dad is 80 and getting altzheimers, and it was too "fiddle-dee-dee" for him, but even as a relative neophyte it was challenging, but not too much so. Good luck!

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1/350 USS Missouri (BB-63) * 1/350 USS England (DE-635) * "Underway Personnel Transfer" Diorama

In Progress:
1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)
1/144 USS Greenling (SSN-614) - ACAD/3D Printing
1/144 USS Batfish (SS-310) - ACAD/3D Printing


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Hudson_D wrote:
Hi,
I've been looking to get a good 1/700th Essex, and my skill level is "beginner", what would you recommend between the Trumpeter and Dragon models please ?

The Trumpeter has additional detailing (particularly under the flightdeck overhangs) but the sides of the ship above the hangar level are separate parts requiring filling and sanding. The Dragon kit is slightly overscale, but the upper sides of the ship are molded as part of the hull. Whatever you feel better with.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:35 pm 
Thanks for the answers, what would be "overscale" ?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:02 pm 
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Slightly too long and wide for 1//700th. I don't think it was by much, but I don't have mine with me to measure.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:25 am 
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OK guys,
I'm thinking ahead for a change and have two completely unrelated questions about something I will eventually need to address and thought i would ask for some input.

The first has to do with detailing the island and mast. Do you guys attach it to the model before you do this or after? It seems that it might be easier to do if it wasn't attached, because you could move it around easier. But, if you do this, it seems like it would need to be temporarily attached to something so that it doesn't fall over. Any suggestions?

The second question is about signal flags on halyards. I am planning on having up to 6 flags on more than one halyard. First, am I naive to think this can be done. I rigged my Missouri and England with nylon thread, but I used thin strands from a grocary bag rope (ala David Griffith) for the AC-47 and was thinking I would use it and/or Caenis on Benny, and it is pretty thin. It seems pretty strong, but will it support 6 flags? Also, would it be better, or possible to put the flags on before putting the lines on the ship?

I would appreciate any and all comments.

THANKS!

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Completed:
1/350 USS Missouri (BB-63) * 1/350 USS England (DE-635) * "Underway Personnel Transfer" Diorama

In Progress:
1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)
1/144 USS Greenling (SSN-614) - ACAD/3D Printing
1/144 USS Batfish (SS-310) - ACAD/3D Printing


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:10 am 
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I usually put the "heavy" stuff on the deck and leave the more fragile stuff off until later, so in my case I'd put the island on and leave the last off until final fitting. That said, the reason I do this is that I prefer plastic to plastic joints wherever possible, and I think your deck is already painted so this may not be a factor.

I haven't done flags before on rigging but I could see it going both ways. I think if you do them ahead of time you'll have an easier time spacing them and making sure they're all blowing the same direction. You just have to make sure when mounting it that you get it glued so that they're actually blowing true and not off. They will not always blow straight back, depending on what direction the wind is coming from, but since carriers launch into the wind, they should be pointing straight back aft if you're representing flight ops.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 12:12 pm 
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:thumbs_up_1:
Thanks Tracy!

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Completed:
1/350 USS Missouri (BB-63) * 1/350 USS England (DE-635) * "Underway Personnel Transfer" Diorama

In Progress:
1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)
1/144 USS Greenling (SSN-614) - ACAD/3D Printing
1/144 USS Batfish (SS-310) - ACAD/3D Printing


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:29 pm 
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Caenis is pretty strong stuff, and will easily hold 6 flags - it's the joint where the Caenis attaches to the yardarm that would be the limiting factor.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:52 pm 
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Good to know. Thanks Timmy C!

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1/350 USS Missouri (BB-63) * 1/350 USS England (DE-635) * "Underway Personnel Transfer" Diorama

In Progress:
1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)
1/144 USS Greenling (SSN-614) - ACAD/3D Printing
1/144 USS Batfish (SS-310) - ACAD/3D Printing


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:00 am 
Hello guys,
Could someone help me out with a drawing of where the 6 quad 50 cal. mounts were located in May 1945? My server wont let me into Navsource for some reason. Also with that the number of 20mms on the Port side of Lexington after the May 45 refit and their positions?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:15 am 
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Rdutnell wrote:
The first has to do with detailing the island and mast. Do you guys attach it to the model before you do this or after? It seems that it might be easier to do if it wasn't attached, because you could move it around easier. But, if you do this, it seems like it would need to be temporarily attached to something so that it doesn't fall over. Any suggestions?


When I built mine I rigged up a jig with wood scraps to hold the island. An upright piece that would fit inside the carcass of the island attached to a base so I could set it down while I worked on it. I think it would be extremely hard to work on the details if it was attached to the fight deck. As a matter of fact I never did glue the island to the deck. I drilled and threaded in some long screws into the deck so the screws would fit into the void area of the island. (I thought of the screws as a 'safety net' sort of thing so the island wouldn't simply fall off and get damaged.) The island fit on the deck is very nice and it stays in place so i never went any farther.

Rdutnell wrote:
The second question is about signal flags on halyards. I am planning on having up to 6 flags on more than one halyard. First, am I naive to think this can be done. I rigged my Missouri and England with nylon thread, but I used thin strands from a grocary bag rope (ala David Griffith) for the AC-47 and was thinking I would use it and/or Caenis on Benny, and it is pretty thin. It seems pretty strong, but will it support 6 flags? Also, would it be better, or possible to put the flags on before putting the lines on the ship?

I would appreciate any and all comments.

THANKS!


I used fly tying line too. I think I used 8/0 which I thought was pretty close to scale. I think David Griffith said that rigging should only be noticed really up close. But anyway, I would layout the halyard horizontally and then attach the flags in the layout and spacing you want. As far as direction that the flags will show, gravity will make or break the effect. If the halyard isn't exactly vertical the weight of the flags will swing them to hang 'downward'. Good luck. If you are using water-slide decal flags, try some setting solution to melt the flags into a more natural look.

Timm

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Timm Smith
Learn something new about the ship or your job every day. Ignorance is not bliss aboard a warship in wartime. Ignorance could cost the life of yourself, a shipmate, or the loss of the ship.
- Personal Information Booklet CV- 38


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:46 pm 
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DennisJP wrote:
Could someone help me out with a drawing of where the 6 quad 50 cal. mounts were located in May 1945?


USS Lexington report on Service Experience With Six Caliber .50 Gun Mounts, Mark 31 Mod 0 - You can determine the locations from the photos at the end of the report.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:24 pm 
Thanks for the info. Good to find out also Wasp had these, as well as Commencment bay Class Cape Gloucaster.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:53 pm 
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With Lexington, note that one of the mounts was destroyed by an aircraft crash, so if you are aiming for an absolute date that may or may not be a consideration.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:31 pm 
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"When I built mine I rigged up a jig with wood scraps to hold the island. An upright piece that would fit inside the carcass of the island attached to a base so I could set it down while I worked on it. I think it would be extremely hard to work on the details if it was attached to the fight deck..." -Capt652

"I usually put the "heavy" stuff on the deck and leave the more fragile stuff off until later, so in my case I'd put the island on and leave the last off until final fitting..."

That's one of the things I like about this game, there are no set rules. Everyone has their own way of geting from point A to point B, and as I have continued modeling I have found that I might like the way one guy does one thing but then like the way somebody else does something else better. I guess part of growing as a modeler is finding techniques that suit you and perfecting them.

In this case, I don't know. I remember how hard it was doing detailing on the 1/350 Missouri, picking it up, rotating it, hitting it on stuff. Trying to get in tight spots that are two feet away with potential disaster spanning the distance. I've got a better set up now and can more easily move around the model, but I see an advantage of having the small island mounted to something firm for ease of access. However, the sooner the island is mounted, the sooner I can complete the wiring for the lights. I've gone back and forth on it numerous times, but I think I'm leaning to mounting it on something firm and basically think of them as two seperate models, to be joined at the very end.

And :thanks: Capt652 for the flag advice. I was thinking of laying them out like you said, but I didn't think about the verticality of the halyard being important. I guess with the relative weights involved this makes sense if one thinks of the physics involved. And I am planning on using white slide off decals, so I appreciate the setting solution advice.

Once again,

THANKS GUYS!!

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Completed:
1/350 USS Missouri (BB-63) * 1/350 USS England (DE-635) * "Underway Personnel Transfer" Diorama

In Progress:
1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)
1/144 USS Greenling (SSN-614) - ACAD/3D Printing
1/144 USS Batfish (SS-310) - ACAD/3D Printing


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:25 am 
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On some, if not all, Essex class, on the open galleries below the flight deck on the P&S sides above the fantail, there is a line of cylindrical objects. Rdutnell says that Raven indicates that they are smoke generator cylinders, but since smoke screens are a destroyer mission, I have difficulty with that. To me they look like acetylene gas cylinders. So what are they?


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