The Ship Model Forum

Thanks Dan. Part of the reason I asked is because I've learned from a bunch of other research projects and forum threads that you can't trust shades of grey in old black and white photos. You're right though, guess I can't go wrong with AP507B since it would at least be right for part of the year or the ship would be dirty, chipped and part re-painted so a medium grey base would be the best compromise.

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Vlad

Thanks!

I have an original unpublished photograph that shows this scheme, with the dark hull extending about half way up the hull

Would you be willing to share it, at least perhaps a low quality version?

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Vlad

It is possible that the darker colour is shadow, but this is the only photo I have seen that shows this area in this way. The darker colour extends from below the knuckle uniformly, including the area opposite and to the rear of the island where there is no knuckle on the hull.

The aft superstructure pom-pom mount has a lattice support framework in this photo, so I believe it is before Ark returned to the UK in October 1940. Subsequently a solid screen was installed from deck to 'A' deck level partly enclosing the pom-pom when viewed from the rear. The DG coil dates the photo as as being taken after Feb 1940.

Thank you, very nice photo! It might be the knuckle but I don't think so, something about how uniform it is and how there is a lot of light reflection on the hull from the water. I'm really tempted to paint my Ark like this now, rather than overall 507B.

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Vlad

This is a really useful and interesting thread. I'm building the Ark at the time of her sinking and the finish she displays at this time is crucial to getting the look 'right'.

Cheers

Dave

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Dave
Currently on the workbench: Tamiya USS Enterprise; Airfix 1/1200 Ark Royal

I found the two photo's of Ark sinking. One is in "Fleet Air Arm, British Carrier Aviation 1939-1945 by Ron Mackay. It is sqadron/signal pub. isbn0-89747-432-5, page #19. The other is Supermarina II, the second part of the mediterranean war July 1941 to August 1942, by John D Gresham and Michael Markowitz. This was a scenario book for the Command at Sea Series game by Larry Bond. Both photo's are referenced to IWM, but with no specific numbers. Both are very reminicent of the KCV photo's in Dec 1940 when she was in the process of painting out the builders very worn 507C and 507A splinter camo with an overall 507B. It must have driven RN captains crazy to have their proud ships operating in such a state!

Collecting stuff for my new Ark Royal. Check this stuff out. I first ordered the octuple pom poms. When I received the pom poms and saw the quality I went right back and ordered the 4.5 in QF with MKIII mounts. Amazing stuff!

http://www.3dmodelparts.com/

Have you painted these yet and if yes what paint did you use? I have seen these before and they look amazing, but I hesitate to buy them because I have had very bad experience trying to paint 3D printed parts. Basically the ones I used so far are almost un-paintable with enamels, so I wanted to check if these are better in that way.

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Vlad

Not yet. The Ark is down my 'tobuild' stack a little ways. My default plan was to wash them like typical resin and then see what happens. It may need a self etching primer or an adhesion promoter. I typically use acrylics which I heard works well. As soon as I get a chance I will take the tree the parts come on and try some things. I am sure you saw this and are just wondering about real results! http://www.3dmodelparts.com/about-our-products/ I will get back as soon as I can.

For cleaning up rapid prototype ABS plastic check out www.wtj.com. They make small scale ship models for wargamers up to 1/1500 scale. They have a section at their website on cleaning and painting of their ships.

Thanks Dan! I will definitely check that out before I get started with experiments.

Howdy, Y'all

Our stuff is washed pretty thoroughly after printing, and should be able to be primed/painted directly without trouble with enamels or water-based acrylics. The material was selected for compatibility which included adhesion and solvent resistance.

Occasionally you might see a thin wax film left over; if you want, just brush the parts with a little thinner or alcohol, (Rubbing, not beer!). This will also clear any dust or, in some cases, undercoat from Gremlin, our shop cat. You can test the bottom of the wafer for adhesion as a good indicator.

P.S. - Has anyone got a good shot of where the de-Gaussing cables end on the ship's sides? I may just be using the Revell kit as reference for the Aoshima build.

-Carl
3DModelParts

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-Carl Allsup
Owner,
3DModelparts.com

Thanks guys, I shall now stop de-railing this thread with 3D printing questions.

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Vlad

P.S. - Has anyone got a good shot of where the de-Gaussing cables end on the ship's sides? I may just be using the Revell kit as reference for the Aoshima build.

The DG coil doesn't end - it forms a continuous loop around the ship, or have I misinterpreted your question?

Earlier I asked about the de-Gaussing coils; on the Revell kit they end abruptly, from the rear of the ship they extend about 2/3 of the way forward to port, and just over half the length to starboard. My query was poorly put, thanks for jogging my interest further. I was starting to think maybe they were partly internal. But, no!

Don't have the etch option for the new Aoshima kit. I'm still collecting pics to get close with a scratched or PE solution. This one answered my question, though, about their extents.

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/fwr- ... smouth.jpg

Will anybody else be attempting those lines with old railing, sprue, etc? And, how about those catwalks around the stern flight deck turn-down?


-Carl

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-Carl Allsup
Owner,
3DModelparts.com

The catwalk comes with the Aoshima PE. I think there are other PE sets for Ark Royal (the old WEM one if you can find it?) but while the Aoshima one isn't spectacular, it does have all the main bits and is at measured to the kit. It's not that expensive, I think it's worth getting it even if you don't use all of it, pick and choose what you need. It also comes with etched wings for the Sworfish, folded and spread.

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Vlad

I have the etch parts on back order at HLJ for the Aoshima kit. I think I might have to get some of those 4.5 inch guns though, the kit ones aren't great.

thanks
Mike

I just received my 4.5 inch guns the other day and they are incredible looking. I have not tried painting yet.

I too am waiting for the photoetch. Hoping it shows up in the USA before too long.