Thanks, Martin!Jim21680 wrote:
This got me thinking....anyone have an idea of how to paint the bridge interiors on these 3D printed items?
(Or maybe just cover the windows with an opaque plastic or glass??)
Great question! The bridge tower, like most MM superstructure designs, is largely hollow and open on the bottom. Airbrushing straight up into the model is one technique with which modelers have had success.
The hollowness of these designs helps accomplish three things:
1) makes it easier to paint the interior
2) keeps the cost down since the price is dependent on the amount of plastic extruded by the printer
3) and during printing, overhanging parts are supported by a waxy substance later melted away in a low-temperature oven. The openness permits the liquid wax to escape
A technique modelers are now using with success to help smooth Frosted Detail surfaces is to use an inexpensive tool called an "air eraser", which is similar to an airbrush (but much cheaper). It emits a grit to gently remove the frost and smooth the surface, kind of like sandblasting but much softer. The grit of choice is common household baking soda, safe and non-toxic. You can find several different air eraser models on Amazon. They cost about $30. They are messy so be careful where you use it.
See:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=161086&p=692922#p692919Here's David Waples' experience:
davidwaples wrote:
Hi all,
Today I tried using the Harbor Tools air eraser with baking soda to clean up some of Steve's 1/700 parts. I had a defective printing in FUD of the Arizona bridge to play with. I found that it did a great job cleaning up areas that had that crystalized rough texture. There were some nasty areas under platforms around the support members and that cleaned up nicely. Best of all it smoothed out masts and barrels to the point where I didn't feel like i need to sand or replace these sections. Make no mistake though, if you work an area it will take plastic and not just the frosted area. In one area it really softened the molded in doors. I did not find that it returned any of the area I was working to a clear state. But overall the softening is pleasing and does not detract from the printing. Much better than I could have done with sand paper and it worked well in areas I couldn't get to. I suppose if you work an area long enough it could get ugly. But if you're careful the results are good. This was a good tip. Thank you.
Dave