The Ship Model Forum

Does anyone know if Hasagawa offers replacement sprues for their kits? Parts from 1/350 Nagato pagoda mast somehow vanished during the 2 month when I left the half-built model alone, and for these specific part would like to use original replacement rather than scratch building it.

I am also interested in some other parts on the sprue for my spare parts bin.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

I am working on my 1:350 Hasegawa Nagato at the moment and applying photoetch. I just wanted to give everyone on this forum a heads up.

Be aware of a problem with some of the Lion Roar photoetch for the Hasegawa Nagato. The last set I got had a thin film on each side of the photo etch sheet. The adhesive that they used is not consistant. Some of the thin film peels off one side quite nicely. However, when trying to remove the film from the other side, phot etch parts will be damaged. On some sheets, the adhesive is so strong that it is almost impossible to completely remove the film before many parts are ruined. I tried soaking the sheets in various solvents with hopes to remove the film without damaging the parts but no success. I sent 4 emails to Lion Roar but they did not have the decency to answer them.

So as they say "Caveat Emptor", buyer beware. If you get a set of Lion Roar photoetch with the thin film on each sheet the odds are very great that you will have spent a load of money and you will ruin parts on each sheet. I personally will not purchase another Lion Roar product.

For those of you that have had success with Lion Roar products, congrats. For the others, its money down the drain. Use the Hasegawa photoetch. It would have been nice if they included the rails and turntables for the aircraft deck but so be it.

Respectfully submitted,
IR3

Hello,

long time no see.

I am back to this kit.

I would also like to recommend Hasegawa pe - it is stunning, especially rails. Every rail has its specific place and fits in milimeter.

Only thing you should also buy are cable reels, i will use WEM IJN cable reels, and IJN ladders.

Canvas will be in another colour of chourse.

Tnx for watching

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Marko

Marko,

Your photo etch work is incredible. I hope mine looks that good when I am finished. I am new to photo etch and I feel like my hands are a pair of meat cleavers. 1:350 is about my limit. I am including a few pics of Hasegawa parts S2 and S27 and the Lion Roar equivalent. Their product is really quite impressive. It's too bad that their manufacturing problem gets in the way. I noticed a glue spot when taking the pics. That will be removed before painting.

Ir3

Absolutely Stunning !! , Marko, may i ask how did you end up with such fine weathering? this just reminded me of a 1/200 scale Yamato out there somewhere, this japanese fellow took pictures of how to do it but the whole text was in japanese and... well i guess i'm too lazy to translate it on google



Jose

Thanks ir3 and J.Soca.

J.Soca, I've weathered it with mig production oil wash - dark and brown.

Important thing is that the base colour is not oil colour. In this case it is gunze acrylic. Once I've painted it gray, I went over it with brush deepend in oil thinnner and once it is still wet I made wash with those two washes and stripes with thin brush. After all that, dry bursh with metalic colour.

Cheers !

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Marko

Would installing the PE antenna mast on top of the B turret and rigging the antenna prevent the turret from rotating?

I find the on-turret antenna masts on Japanese ships irksome in the extreme.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

On the model, yes, on the ship, no. The antenna mast is designed to rotate around a shaft in its base so that the aerial always stays true, rigged fore and aft.

I could imagine possibly creating a working version in 1/350, but its impossible in 1/700. Not to scale, anyway.

I created a working version for the Yamato's 6" turrets out of brass wire, using 0.5mm styrene rod drilled through as bearing. Even using the thinnest brass wire I can find it is still a little too thick to scale. Thinner copper wire is too soft. At least the shaft of rotating part on the Yamato is supported at two points and thus easy to keep vertical. But an accurate and in-scale working version for that Nagato would be more difficult because there is only a single pivot point, so keeping the rotating shaft vertical would be tough. The only thing I can think of is to make the entire vertical shaft turn inside a single long sleeve. Getting such a thin hollow tube for an in-scale sleeve would be a challenge. Perhaps there are ultra-thin hypodermic needles.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

Marko: How did you eliminate the notorious panel lines from the underwater hull?

I used many layers of primer sanded smooth, but the result is not entirely satisfactory.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

I agree that nothing short of an ultra thin hypodermic is going to work. The problem is compounded by the lack of slack & weight in the rigging material. Unfortunately, it's like trying to film water for movie models; you can't scale down the effect.

We're all going to have to move up to 1/200, there's no other way

I need some help applying photoetch. I use thin CA, the parts fall off. I use thick CA, the parts fall off. I use Acrylic Hobby glue and the parts fall off. I've read several articles on applying photoetch and I just can't make it work. What's the secret.

IR3

I have found no real solution. The bond between PE and CA is just not very strong. I just handle the finished product very gingerly. I also accept a certain loss of crispness near very small PE contact patches by applying a little extra CA, so small globes of CA harden around the paint of contact to lend the bond a little extra strength.

I do find that washing copper / brass PE in detergent solution, letting it dry and then sit for a while so the copper / brass develop an orangish patina seem to improve the CA bond somewhat. I suspect the orangish hue that develops after washing has something to do with a mild surface oxidation that may improve PE bonds.

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.

Another thought, in the case of large vertical pieces, such as the framework wall shown on the previous page, might be to drill small holes for metal pins placed on the inside, to improve contact area. With railings, one might suggest the opposite, a small drilled hole for each railing, not full depth, to increase contact area thus hold for the railing pins. I know, that's a lot of holes, but it might help.

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Die Panzerschiffe - Putting the Heavy in Heavy Cruiser since 1940.

It's not Overkill, it's Insurance.

If you think my plastic is crazy, check out my Line Art!
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/S ... %20Images/

Thanks Marko, i use oil based paint on my ships, nevertheless you gave me an idea i'd like to try. I got this weathering pastel i bought sometime ago and perhaps i might be able to use it after all.


Jose

I can't say that I've ever had this problem. I use CA+ and it works fine, almost too well. Takes about 10-15 seconds to set, so there is time to position.

Some questions to help define this situation (might be O/T and belong in the tips and tricks section):

Have you cleaned your PE prior to painting it, or dipped it in something like vinegar for a minute to help adhesion?
is your PE unpainted or painted when you attempt to attach it?
is your model painted or unpainted when you attempt to attach PE?
If painted, what kind of paint?
When you attach, how do you hold the piece - with tweezer, a clamp? Is your hand steady?
How much do CA do you apply, a drop or a lot?

no problem, just put gunze clear gloss (acrylic) coat and oil wash will be even better on gloss surface, easier to apply and to clean.

After that just spray it with humbrol matt coat (far the best I've ever tried)


Chuck,

you can find pictures of removing lines on the hull on page 2 and 3 of this topic .

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Marko

Thank you one more time Marko. i want to test something over the weekend, if all comes as i planned i'll let you know.


Jose

A link for Mutsu wreck photos - very good: http://navgunschl2.sakura.ne.jp/photo/mutsu/mutsu.html

Hi all

I am new to these forums and want to say that firstly I love everyone's work here so far and look forward to seeing more.

I picked up the Hasegawa 1/350 Nagato a couple of days ago from my LGS. This will be my 2nd ship model (my first was a 1/700 Waterline Taiho last year) as I have mainly done ww2 planes and armour. Today I ordered the 3 Hasegawa etch sets- was that a good idea?? they cost me more than the kit which I got on special for $180Au (normally around $250Au) The PE sets are costing me $200Au + postage so around $230Au!

What other items would you suggest (if any) that I need or should get. I have spent 2 days surfing the net (which is how I found this site) and know there was a wood deck for the kit but these seem to be sold out everywhere.

Cheers