The Ship Model Forum

Can anyone answer me a query I have concerning the turrets?

The kit instructions show an inset diagram on the top left hand side of page 19. This diagram tells you to cut off the bottom rear corners off each turret at an angle. Would this be an attempt to redress the initial inaccuracy of the overall shape?

I haven't looked at the actual parts themselves yet.

Hmm, only B turret has a different rear armor plate, the rest are all flat. Can you give us a scan?

WEM says yes to better turrets I'll include two styles of rangefinders, both old and new and open rangefinder viewports.

Here's a link to the Trumpeter instructions about 'reshaping' the turret.

Broken Link Removed

That is correct, one turret (B IIRC) has a few facets in the rear armor plate. Thanks for the scan.

I had another look thru' the instructions and yes, it is indeed B Turret to which the diagram refers.

Thanks for clarifying.

Meanwhile - for those who can read and translate German, here's a review of the Upgrade Set.

http://www.modellmarine.de/phpwebsite/i ... ion=185:71

Tim's posted a kit review here -

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... eview.html

Made some progress on my hood over the last week or so.

Still working on the seam for the two hull halves... long hull = long seem even when it does fit well (which it does for the most part).

I also built the "bulkheads" for the resin that I'm using to have something to drill into for mounting Hood:



I've since poured resin into these in two stages. I'm a little dubious about the integrity of the red plastic to take the heat if resin curing so I filled the hull with ice water about half way the depth of these bulkheadsand let it sit on wet newspaper as I poured it. May have been overkill but all went well!

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

Will the resin stay soundly set against the plastic?

I did serious overkill with my Essex mounting locations: I expoxied a section of 2 X 4 along waterline plate. I had some serious material to drill into, and it gave the model some nice mass (after doing resin kits I like my models to have to weight to them).

-Devin

It should Devin; I hit the insides of the boxes with some rough sanding sticks so the surface has some grooves the resin can bite into. Additionally, the action of the screws is going to tend to clamp the resin anyway. In other projects I've glues strips to the various surfaces to give a more irregular surface that the resin can lock around; do it on my subs all the time.

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

OK folks,

I´m working on my Trumpeter Hood, too. Plus WEM PE.

I discovered a marked step between lower and upper hull which I´m filling and sanding. 5 feet of it altogether ...

I tried to chicken out of replacing the degaussing cable but will have to as the molded version is single and the real thing was double .

Right now I´m losing track of what´s correct re the aft 4 in platform/ splinter shield. The older drawings depict it rounded, the kit has it angled, and the WEM replacement part is rounded again. I also got to admit my head is spinning from squinting at the rare pic at hmshood.com and I´d be happy if one of you would give me some pointers as to what should be agreed upon.

Re the turret tops I applied Mr Surfacer 500 to mine and oversprayed the fresh stuff with Gunze thinner to even the surface out. Works nice and reduces the overdone ledges.

Curious for input

Frank

I've just started my Hood. I'm building her with the WEM P.E. as the GMM one is no where in site:( Regarding colours I'm using Tamyia acrylics. I feel that their XF 54 Dark Sea Grey is great for her over all grey, they have a red brown, which I'm using on the linoleum decks, and my usuall buff with a wash of Brown Earth for the decks.

In my building I'm finding that the fit is excellent.

Someone has asked about backdating the ship to an earlier configuaration. If you drop the bottom of the hull this job becomes much easier as there is already a lot of detail included in the kit that would assist in this. All the interior detail under the boat deck is there. This makes me think that Trumpy may be planing on another release circa 1930's as they did with the Lexington/Saratoga kit. I see no other reason to go into the detail that Trumpeter has if not for this reason. Only speculation on this so please don't get your hopes up.

Oops, did I do that? One tip Tracy, I replaced the degaussing cable on my hull prior to painting and building the gun/boat deck. I think next time I'll put the degaussing cable on after. The degaussing cable now interferes with any sanding cleaning work I need to do on the hull. The cable from WEM looks nice but it's very fragile. I would of preferred a one piece cable made of thicker brass. But then perhaps I'm just getting old, I would of loved this kit more 10 years ago

...is, to the best of my knowledge, only because they were advised to. There was no discussion of an earlier version of Hood.

Honestly, the original plans looked rather like a scaled-up Tamiya kit in a number of places. Since I couldn't see any of the enclosed focsle deck/side batteries, I assumed they were going to repeat Tamiya's mistake/shortcut. So, we advised them of the correct layout. Maybe they had it right already, but I strongly suspect it looked like Tamiya's kit's centre section...

I WISH they'd come out with an earllier Hood (I'd prefer either a 1924 or 1937 example). If not,m hopefully one of the aftermarket producers will consider developing a retrofit kit. We stand by, ready to help...

Frank

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

I just purchased a second Hood this morning. I'm not 100% happy with how my first job is going, mainly due to the P.E. problems mentioned above. I plan to fit the GMM set when it comes out. I also had a look at Tamyia's FX 66 for the Hood, I'm presently using FX 54 on this current job. I compared the FX 66 grey with a chip of 507B that Kevin Dunn of Fleetline has and it is a perfect match. So I'll be using this colour for my second Hood. Now where on Earth is Loren's Hood P.E.?

I now have the Trumpeter Hood 'Upgrade set' sitting in front of me.

Doesn't look much for £17UKS+p&p I must admit.

It has been bought by a friend who has lent me the set to look at.

Might have a go at making my own barrels if possible.

Anyone else any views on this 'upgrade set'?

As for painting, I'm sticking with Humbrol rather than any acrylics or WEM paints. It's cheaper!

They just announced the Turret set. I have a PE set on order through Shipcamouflage.com and am going to ask Randy to add a turret set.

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

OK, I finally got some more time to work on the hawse pipes tonight. I decided loosely to take some styrene tubing and cut it at an angle so that I got an elipse and work from there.

Now, first off, let me say that I don't have any plans for Hood and am working off of photos and renderings in the Classic Warships book (copies of the renderings are available from the Hood Association website for those that don't have the book).

I think the placement of the hawsepipe openings is a little off. Those on the hull are too far forward and angled incorrectly, and those on the deck too far aft and shaped wrong. The net effect is that it's going to be hard to make good, open hawse pipes.

This is not really the problem it could be though, as I finally found the evidence I was looking for that she had grates over the deck openings in photographs of her wreck. So I think what I'll do at this point (assuming that the holes I cut in the deck aren't too large for the WEM PE grates) is just make some bottom pieces for the hull that trail up out of sight and call it good. The starboard aft hawse pipe is the most important of these to get right as it has no anchor (assuming you're building her at the time of her loss). to hide any flaws I make.

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

The turrets are very wrong. The shape is clunky and the bolts on top of the roof were placed on some strip that was never there (I think they copied Thomas Schmidt's (older?) renderings). I nearly finished the masters for WEM.... Quite nice, if I can say so myself, I even added the bolts to the rangefinder hood I'm even going to add the luxury of having the rangefinder in both post and pre 1939 style AND giving you the option of having the range finder viewports open or closed. Note sure of WEM will cast all 8 rangefinder parts (need only 2), but that's not my decision. One weekend should finish her off. I still am a bit in doubt how to do the commanders windscreen... Should be hollow, but that's uncasteable. I made a lot of pics, so I think I'll send them for a nice how-to article for MW. If you don't like the turret, you know how to make one yourself

[img]http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/Foeth/wemprogress2.jpg[/img]

Hi, EJ!
Thank you for your quick reply. I had some time to browse through a couple of pages and indeed find that this issue has been widely discussed, already. My hat's off to you for your great scratch building and making it available through the cottage industrie. Indeed from what I can see, your master and the Trumpi issue are worlds appart!
Have a weekend!
Cheers,
Guido