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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 2:16 am 
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There are differences in each of the ships in the class. The HP kit includes parts for some of the differences, but I'm not 100% certain it can be done all out of the box. It's best to check the internet for references. All 4 ships in the class had different bridge platforms and various other differences.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 5:54 am 
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Hey all. I bought ICM's 1/350 Kronprinz last week and I am building it as exactly as it is out of the box, since this is my first plastic model in over ten years. But there are some slight details bugging me about getting it to look historically accurate due to the lack of sources on what exact colours the Germans used on their ships. I've put photos on this link: http://imgur.com/a/90e0q

The first thing I did was spray the deck with a sand colour, which I thought was standard for ships. But the instructions call for a 'wood' colour and I looked the Model Master 1735, and it is indeed an actual brown colour that they're recommending for the deck. It's hard to picture a dreadnought with such a dark colour for the deck. Do you think this was accurate for the time or did I do a good enough job? I'm going to paint in the little details later with a toothpick or fine brush, such as the anchor chain area.

Speaking of anchors, I'm not happy that they added this detail to the deck. I would have liked to use a real chain to resemble the anchor chain. You could probably use a chisel to remove their anchor detailing, but I dare not try this on my first model in case I stuff up and ruin the deck.

Another detail I'm worried about is the grey paint. I will be using Tamiya TS 33 (Haze Grey) for the hull and have already used it on the sides of the main gun turrets. I hope this grey is a good enough representation of what the Germans used. The main concern is the darker grey (TS 67 IJN Grey) I've used for the tops of the turrets as called for by the instructions. A lot of photos I've seen of completed Kronprinz/Konig models show this as a much darker grey. You can see in the photos that the two greys aren't highly distinguishable from each other. I'm wondering if I should redo them in a darker grey before I add decals. In any case, I'm super pleased with how the turrets turned out. I sprayed the whole turret with the light grey, let it dry, wrapped the sides in masking tape and sprayed the top with the darker grey. Turned out fantastic with no leak issues through the masking tape. The liferafts also turned out well.

Last but not least, the painting instructions call for the sides of the searchlight platforms to be painted a 'sand' colour. You can see from this photo http://www.model-making.eu/zdjecia/1/9/ ... S003_1.jpg that the platforms around both the funnels are to be painted in 'sand' which is the same colour of how I've done my deck. Apparently, the sides of the platforms are actually railings covered in canvas, but the question remains what colour the canvas would be: sand or the same grey as the rest of the ship?

Lucky last: how do I make scratchbuilt gun bloomer bags? And what colour would they be, according to this last photo of Kronprinz in Scapa Flow: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ ... a_Flow.jpg

PS: I'm building the 1917 version of the kit. The only differences are no torpedo net booms, added bridge wings and bigger mast.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 4:31 am 
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Hey Plasma Frigate,

Just want to encourage you! You are on the right track as you're describing your considerations so far.

Just a few notes to help: wooden decks are best painted very light tan or sand, and slightly weathered using a very diluted brown oil paint, to simulate the planking. just the sand/tan will not look right, as a wooden deck is not a single color but always has some texture.
Darker brown is not recommended, only when displaying the ships in heavy seas with a lot of water on the deck.

All the decks above the main deck were laid with 'battleship linoleum', being red-brown in colour. Even the planked deck of the forward superstructure should have this, the planking there is incorrect. Also all the searchlight platforms should have this linoleum.

As for the sides: German ships in WW1 where painted a VERY light grey, everything above the deck, and the hull sides a SLIGHTLY darker grey than the superstructure. Anyway much lighter than the ships in WW2, that wore a similar scheme. Many completed models on the internet are painted way too dark, sometimes probably referring to WW2 painting instructions. So don't take other's models for granted.

The turret tops were officially painted black (yes!), but because of the lighting from above this appears more like dark grey, so Anthrazit is a good compromise. The white rings on the most forward and aft turrets were only introduced in 1917, so you're right putting them on.

The railings on much of the superstructure and the searchlight platforms were covered with canvas 'dodgers' to give some weather protection, these were a natural canvas colour but often painted in the same grey as the rest of the superstructure. So you have some choice here.

No simple solution for blast bags, you can try to sculpt them from small blobs of Miliput, but it will require getting some practice first, rejecting a few before you find them satisfactory. But leaving them off is not wrong, the Germans wore these only on occasion and not standard, depending the expected weather and seaways.

Good luck!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 8:43 pm 
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Maarten Schönfeld wrote:
Hey Plasma Frigate,

Just want to encourage you! You are on the right track as you're describing your considerations so far.

Just a few notes to help: wooden decks are best painted very light tan or sand, and slightly weathered using a very diluted brown oil paint, to simulate the planking. just the sand/tan will not look right, as a wooden deck is not a single color but always has some texture.
Darker brown is not recommended, only when displaying the ships in heavy seas with a lot of water on the deck.

All the decks above the main deck were laid with 'battleship linoleum', being red-brown in colour. Even the planked deck of the forward superstructure should have this, the planking there is incorrect. Also all the searchlight platforms should have this linoleum.

As for the sides: German ships in WW1 where painted a VERY light grey, everything above the deck, and the hull sides a SLIGHTLY darker grey than the superstructure. Anyway much lighter than the ships in WW2, that wore a similar scheme. Many completed models on the internet are painted way too dark, sometimes probably referring to WW2 painting instructions. So don't take other's models for granted.

The turret tops were officially painted black (yes!), but because of the lighting from above this appears more like dark grey, so Anthrazit is a good compromise. The white rings on the most forward and aft turrets were only introduced in 1917, so you're right putting them on.

The railings on much of the superstructure and the searchlight platforms were covered with canvas 'dodgers' to give some weather protection, these were a natural canvas colour but often painted in the same grey as the rest of the superstructure. So you have some choice here.

No simple solution for blast bags, you can try to sculpt them from small blobs of Miliput, but it will require getting some practice first, rejecting a few before you find them satisfactory. But leaving them off is not wrong, the Germans wore these only on occasion and not standard, depending the expected weather and seaways.

Good luck!


Hey Maarten :thumbs_up_1: thanks for the detailed answers. I already painted the hull with the Tamiya Haze Grey, and it did turn out darker than I would have liked. I might redo it in a light colour but can you please explain the different greys again? For hull, superstructure, sides of turrets and the lower deck sides where the secondary guns are.

Here are some photos to show the Haze Grey in action: http://imgur.com/a/4dt35 The deck isn't glued on, I just put it on there as an example. In my opinion the hull does look too dark, too different from the illustration of Kronprinz on the model box. What do you think?

That is interesting about the battleship linoleum. I'll see if I can sand off some of the deck planking on the forward superstructure. I haven't painted any of the battleship linoleum yet but I did pick up the perfect colour for it at the hobby shop. It is Mr Hobby Russet. At least, I think it's a perfect match :smallsmile: won't know until I've painted with it.

I've never done any weathering before. I would like to, so the completed ship looks more 'natural'. Do you have any photos of weathered decks using the brown oil method you mentioned?

EDIT: I think I'll just stick with the colours I already have (the Haze Grey for the hull and sides of superstructure and the IJN Grey for tops of turrets). If I keep chopping and changing and buying new paints I'll never get this model finished. I'll forego historical accuracy if need-be. At least with my next model project I'll be equipped with the experience from Kronprinz. I'd still like to do some basic weathering if you think it's doable with my skill level?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:04 am 
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Plasma_Frigate wrote:
EDIT: I think I'll just stick with the colours I already have (the Haze Grey for the hull and sides of superstructure and the IJN Grey for tops of turrets). If I keep chopping and changing and buying new paints I'll never get this model finished. I'll forego historical accuracy if need-be. At least with my next model project I'll be equipped with the experience from Kronprinz. I'd still like to do some basic weathering if you think it's doable with my skill level?


Hi,

Good that you realize your questions put up a whole lot of considerations, and that changing now will put you back where you've started. Maybe better next time ask such questions before you started painting, so good to know for a next project.

Below you find much more info on painting German warships of WW1.
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=28612&start=160

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:17 am 
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In either of the ICM Konig-class kits, did anyone have trouble with the secondary (5.9") guns? You have to slot the gun barrel through the circular turrets, but my barrels only go in 1/4 - 1/2 of the way. It seems the hole in the turret is too small. Even if I try to jam the barrel in, it still won't go far enough. How do you open up the hole more so that the barrels can go in?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 12:13 pm 
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I had the same problem with the secondary 5.9 guns. I used a small screwdriver and pushed them in. I didn't use the retainer in the back of the turret


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 12:33 pm 
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Try using your #11 blade to scrap the opening until it's wide enough.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 3:34 am 
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Cool. Thanks guys. Will have to look for a #11 blade or similar. I've already tried pushing them in with a screwdriver but they just jam at 1/4 - 1/2 of the way. If I put anymore pressure on them they would break.


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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 1:52 am 
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A late contribution from my experience on Grosser Kürfurst, one of the sistership of the same class and same manufacturer :
- if you decide to paint the deck as wood, it has to look in any case mat, as never teck get varnish in naval construction for decking. Sand seems to look like dry teck, and teck is more dark when wet, so use it only if you make scenography with water or diorama.
- for the blast bag, i use a bit of white wooden glue to make a blob going out from the openings of the barrel. Just put a drop inside the barrel, and let it go naturally down by holding in from the top and let gravity making the blob. When a bit dry, i put from inside the guns, so the glue create an envelop around just at the base, place them on right position using support and let it dry (longtime). To obtain a "reticulate" effect afterwards, i use enamel coat, let it dry and use plastic glue to 'retract' naturally the coat, it make a really nice 'wrinkled' effect.
- i alsos advise to scratchbuild the masts, as the ones in the kit are to light to hold the rigging (yardarms are available on 1/350 : http://www.amazon.com/Master-Model-Univ ... B019GA22W8).
- for the rigging, i didn't use stretched sprue but basic elastic sewingthread, available at your corner store (with CA). you can create tension and make some cables more thin when stretched with this method.
- for the insolators, some are using small electronic components you can find on old computer cards, for my part, i'm using cyano glue gel, to create it. Just put a bit of gel, let dry, again gel, to create slowly a "ball" in the cable...
- last but not least, for this model, i advise to use PE guns, available for this model in many shopping sites, they are fitting perfectly to the different turret and barrels from the kit and give definitely an outstanding look to your model.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 3:29 pm 
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Does anyone have hull lines for Konig class they are willing to share? I found lines for Fredrick der Grosse,.. they look very similar. To my eye the difference is the forcastle area.

Any insight?

Thanks,
Zora


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 4:45 pm 
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Is for real? http://hlj.com/product/ICMS014


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:11 pm 
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Yes it's real. The anoncement was early this year.
It seems the kit will be available in November.

Greetings Christian

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1/700 Combrig IJN Heien and Takao 1904
1/700 ICM SMS König 1916
1/700 Flyhawk HMS Penelope 1939
1/700 Fujimi IJN Shokaku 1941
1/700 Fujimi IJN Nagato 1941
1/700 Aoshima IJN Kagero 1941
1/700 Flyhawk HMS Prince of Wales 12/1941


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:24 pm 
ch hoeltge wrote:
Yes it's real. The anoncement was early this year.
It seems the kit will be available in November.

Greetings Christian


Mmmmm. I plastic Moltke from Flyhawk; Lutzow and Derflingger, now Konig. Mmmmm, juicy! I wonder if the kit will have stuff to make variants for her sisters. Maybe I'll be into scratchbuilding by then.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 2:14 am 
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I just saw some 3D pics on Model shipwrights from ICM.
It doesn't look that bad. And seems they now make a correct late war version with the heavy tube mast and without 8.8 guns in the forecastle.
And yes I think the sister ships will follow, perhaps also an early version.

Greetings Christian

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1/700 Aoshima IJN Kagero 1941
1/700 Flyhawk HMS Prince of Wales 12/1941


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 12:07 am 
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CAD of the Konig can also be viewed on ICM's site: http://www.icm.com.ua/news/455-k246nig- ... l-and.html

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:40 am 
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Looks good. And thats great news for us to have a pure WWI battleship in plastic for the first time. Well time has pass for the resin 1/700 offerings.
BUT as usual the modelling community will ignore cause of bad distribution for a small almost garage like company like ICM and 0 advertisement. Sometimes I wonder where they found the motivation and money to support such a project that is bound to remain obscure(bad distribution/0 advertisement) and in the domain of low sales.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 8:30 am 
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Atma wrote:
Looks good. And thats great news for us to have a pure WWI battleship in plastic for the first time. Well time has pass for the resin 1/700 offerings.
BUT as usual the modelling community will ignore cause of bad distribution for a small almost garage like company like ICM and 0 advertisement. Sometimes I wonder where they found the motivation and money to support such a project that is bound to remain obscure(bad distribution/0 advertisement) and in the domain of low sales.

As we say when a new kit comes out and is bashed before anyone has even seen it, perhaps we should wait and see. If the ship modeling community wants these, they'll find them. I think it's a little early to be so negative.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:22 pm 
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I see the 1/700 icm kits of konig and grosser kurfurst are out now. Any early comments? What period in the war do they represent?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 2:52 pm 
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SMS Konig is late war fit and SMS Grosser Kurfurst is as commissioned. No torpedo nets ICM provides for the ealrfy fit SMS Grosser Kurfurst, so a PE set is need. Torpedo nets are necessary for an accurate early fit period.


Last edited by Atma on Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:20 am, edited 2 times in total.

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