The Ship Model Forum

The Ship Modelers Source
It is currently Tue Jul 14, 2020 5:09 pm

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 614 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 31  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 5:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 2:03 pm
Posts: 72
Location: Tucson, AZ
Sounds like building a late war ship wouldn't be too hard if there are a lot of suitable unused parts in the kit. Just gotta order a bunch of Lion Roar PE AA guns and go gray building all of them. Fixing the surface details should be half the "fun".


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:13 am 
The Nagato kit hull is molded in 2 halves. But what is interesting is each halve is molded in 2 pieces. Most of the hull is one piece, and a small section of the hull between the hawse hole and the stem is molded separately.

If I were to guess from the parts breakdown, I will say that a Mutsu is in the works. A easy identifying feature that distinguishes Mutsu from Nagato is the towing fair lead near the bow. Both ships have large, prominent cast fairleads on eitherside near the bow, behind the imperial crest. However, Nagato's fairlead is further back, nearer to the hawse hole. Mutsu's is farther forward, nearer to the imperial crest,


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:47 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:56 am
Posts: 7297
Location: New York City
The hull breakdown also allows for as built straight stem insert. Maybe an early 30's version is in the works.

"Excel spreadsheet" - I like that, a perfect description.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Mutsu Conversion
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 2:02 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:58 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Guys,

At the US Nationals last August I asked the rep there if a Mutsu was planned as I had noted the Nagato kit was configured to permit an easy change to the forepeak area. He implied there was a plan to do this but would not go so far as to actually confirm the plan.

Paul O'Reilly

_________________
Paul O'Reilly


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:05 pm 
Dan K wrote:
The hull breakdown also allows for as built straight stem insert. Maybe an early 30's version is in the works.



Not really, the torpedo blister and extended stern are molded into the main hull. Early 1930 version had neither.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:56 am
Posts: 7297
Location: New York City
Quote:
Not really, the torpedo blister and extended stern are molded into the main hull. Early 1930 version had neither.


Good point. Unfortunately, molding separate blistees as Aoshima has done with the Takaos would not have helped in this case.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:40 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:55 am
Posts: 33
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
I have decided to fill most of the lines. All lines on the red hull have been filled.
I think that the quickest way is with spray primer.
I've used tamiya primer in spray, gave the hull three thick layers and sanded it away. It took me one afteroon, if I count the time it took me to dry, one day
Here are the pictures.

Image

Image

Image

_________________
Marko


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:04 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 3:01 pm
Posts: 819
Location: Port Townsend, WA
I was wondering why someone didn't think of that. In that scale, would the hull lines even be visable?

_________________
Any ship larger than a Destroyer is a waste of metal.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 12:12 pm 
Actually, I did think of it. Wouldn't have bought the kit if I didn't.

:big_grin:

But there is as yet no solution to the panel likes on the above water portion of the hull that does not involve removing all the details around the portholes.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 2:15 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 10007
Location: EG48
les wrote:
In that scale, would the hull lines even be visable?


In that scale most shouldn't be, depending on the type of joint of course. Where you see it most is the weathering where the paint would chip off the corners and rust would appear in visible lines.

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 2:41 pm 
But you have to distinguish that which would make the model look realistic from that which actually is realistic to the scale adopted. There are many details which makes the model appear realistic, but which if were actually realistic would be essentially invisible.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 2:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 10007
Location: EG48
Anonymous wrote:
But you have to distinguish that which would make the model look realistic from that which actually is realistic to the scale adopted.


No, actually, you have to decide what look you prefer and build as you see fit.

I'd fill them in, but there are many here who like the look.

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:24 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:55 am
Posts: 33
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
I've finished. Lines are very slightly visible

Would I do it again? No.


Image

Image

Image

Image

_________________
Marko


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:54 pm 
BTW, I suspect the waterline marked on the Hasagawa kit is a little too high. The lowest roll of scuttles is improbably close to the waterline.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 4:07 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:55 am
Posts: 33
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Anonymous wrote:
BTW, I suspect the waterline marked on the Hasagawa kit is a little too high. The lowest roll of scuttles is improbably close to the waterline.


Nope. It's ok.

Image

_________________
Marko


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 1:10 am
Posts: 2299
Location: (42.24,-87.81)
The lowest level of scuttles did not survive to the end of her career. They probably existed only until the late 1930s, before which the battleships were seldom more than floating hotels.
Image

_________________
If an unfriendly power had attempted to impose on America the mediocre educational performance that exists today, we might well have viewed it as an act of war.

-- "A Nation at Risk" (1983)


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: Nagato
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 2:37 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:55 am
Posts: 33
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Guest wrote:
Hi Skuki:
How long did it take you to fill the hull lines?


To fill the lines took me some 10 minutes. I used tamiya fine primer spray so it went very fast, about three layers of this primer each took me 3 or 4 minutes.

Then sanding that primer away took me some 40 minutes. all in all, if I count time needed to dry the primer, everything was over in one day. :smallsmile:

_________________
Marko


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: Nagato
PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 4:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 7:55 am
Posts: 33
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Guest wrote:
Hi Skuki:
Any new progress? Please post photos for all of us to see.
Thanks!


Well Ok,
here are few fresh of the deck (Tamiya deck tan for base and tamiya deck tan with a bit og grey for overspray)



Image

Image

Image

_________________
Marko


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:00 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 1:40 pm
Posts: 6978
Location: In the hills of North Jersey
Okay, I split what I thought was the pertinent info and put into this new thread on the Nagato class. Please post future updates here.

Nice work Marko! Please keep the progress pictures coming!

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:38 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:46 am
Posts: 2237
Location: Hoboken, NJ
Marko,

Love the wood pattern. Did you mask at all to get that effect?

I've been experimenting with wood effects on WWI aircraft and a 1/96th USS Weehawken by using acrylic undercoats and glazes. I'm always looking for new processes to do wood.

-Devin

_________________
We like our history sanitized and theme-parked and self-congratulatory, not bloody and angry and unflattering. - Jonathan Yardley


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 614 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 31  Next

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests


You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group