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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 3:14 pm 
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Location: Mocksville, NC
I might also add that Xmas has been really good to me BB'wise:

1) my modeler/machinist friend has provided me with (5) machined brass Pelorus based on the drawing I provided him. These are slightly less than 3/8" high and

2) the special order Pontos Decking has arrived and is really nice - they did an excellent job on working w/me on making this available. Also included were the additional brass whip antennae and replacement PE sheets that I had been requesting.

3) Duplicolor primer was purchased based on Randy's recommendation as the Tester's primer did not prove very useful or lasting in an early test I did on it last year.

4) I now have The Endless River (Pink Floyd) and The Hollies Greatest Hits to add to the music suite once I'm back at the shop, also.

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Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS PENNSYLVANIA (BB-38) Late '40 1:200
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 3:44 pm 
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I'll be very interested in your Pontos deck. The very limited experience I have is that a) it is extremely well-detailed and b) it fits very well. Having said that, for some reason I had to "enlarge" the forward half of turret 1's hole due to clearance issues: to the rear of the turret everything was fine, and to the front of it ditto if the deck was not placed down over the barbette. But to get it to lay perfectly flat I had to remove ~ 1/16" of material from the front half of the hole.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 3:55 pm 
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1/16" is a lot, a scale foot onboard. Wood products are not dimensionally stable, especially along the grain direction. Ply type products somewhat better though possibly less predictable. Humidity differential between place of mfgr and especially at your workbench will make some difference. In the winter a reduced humidity indoors due to heating will cause some shrinkage. I am actually amazed that they can fit as well as they do. Leaving your deck raw?

T


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:19 pm 
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Randy/Tom:

I'm rather surprised that the fit on your deck (Randy) is not correct - this is the first comment I've heard about this on the forum re. the Pontos MO decking. Your assumption re. the environmental changes in the deck may very well be legitimate.

I won't know about the fit for a while - I'm going to acclimate the decking to the workshop environment a couple days or so before taking stock of its fit on the deck itself. I don't want to pick apart everything until I decide on a finish to apply to all the deck parts.

There is a thread re. wooden decks on the Main Forum that is discussing this issue and I do plan to finish my wooden deck parts PRIOR to installing them. The color on my decks is really good in comparison to color photos of the decks on NEW JERSEY in the late '60s - very close. But, unfinished, I don't think is the way to go. They need some type of treatment to keep their appearance and stability.

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HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS PENNSYLVANIA (BB-38) Late '40 1:200
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 7:22 pm 
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Location: San Diego
The only thing I can add to the expansion theory is that the extremely thin wood veneer is held via adhesive to a very thick (in comparison) plastic substrate. I have to believe the plastic is much more stable over temperature than the wood - even assuming this type of wood is that unstable over this temperature/humidity range. Also, this afternoon I cut out the aft deck and it fits perfectly - they are about the same length, so I would expect any environmental effects to affect both pieces in a like manner.

Please don't infer too much from my experience - first of all I probably trimmed closer to 1/32 than 1/16 as originally stated. I had assumed hat even with the slight mismatch, the decking could have been successfully applied - the concern I had was whether it would STAY applied over time - it was just enough to cause the decking to "pinch" along the centerline. I recently asked Kelly Quirk whether his deck is still "down" and it is. I have not yet asked him whether he had a similar observation to me re: fit.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 9:03 pm 
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Wandered about a used book store in Bellingham Wa today and came across Stillwell's Battleship NJ which at $20 was nicely priced. However I already have that book... I do come across a rare gem now and then.

Looking fwd to seeing progress on the various ships (I should talk).

Cheers from the peanut gallery! T


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:40 pm 
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James M wrote:
Chuck, there is an access hatch on the rear MK37 director foundation and it is at a different height.
Forward director (Iowa):
Image

Midship director:(Missouri)
Image

Aft director (Iowa):
Image

James


Thanks, James. That's exactly what I needed.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:07 pm 
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Location: Fullerton, CA
Found the information about the WWII draft marks and boot topping. As close to fact as I can come up with.

This is from the Bu Ships plan 353608 / 8/18/41 / corrected working plan 5/15/43
Navy Yard, New York Plan BB616-2806AF

Design Water Line (DWL) 34' 9 1/4"
Bow: Upper line of boot topping: 17" above DWL
Lower line of boot topping: 5' 6 1/2" below DWL

Stern: Upper line of boot topping: 17" above DWL
Lower line of boot topping: 12 1/2" below DWL

Bow = Upper line of boot topping 36' 2 1/2" from keel / total height: 6' 10 3/4"
Stern = Upper line of boot topping 36' 2 1/2" from keel / total height: 2' 4 3/4"
(The upper line of the boot topping is parallel with the DWL/keel)

I haven't located the modernized version plan to know if there is any difference. If needed I can find out about it.

James


Last edited by James M on Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:40 am 
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Randy M:

I am very interested in your 3D printed solution to the Missouri's hull issue. I have access to a 3D printer at work. Would you be willing to share the gcode (or similar) file? Our 3D printer can print within a cylinder 10" in diameter and 10" tall. Do your parts fit within that envelope? Or can I buy the parts from you? Thank you.

Cheers
Mike Connelley


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 12:29 pm 
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That indicates a widely varying boot top, much wider at the bow than the stern. This would make some sense as much loading draft increases at the bow due to two magazines located forward and one aft. Not sure what the fuel loading scheme was or how the tanks could be trimmed for optimal loading.

Interesting! T


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 5:20 pm 
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Someone a while ago was asking if the decks were painted when the Iowa went to Tehran.

Navsouce posted these:
http://navsource.org/archives/01/pdf/016105j.pdf
That deck is definitely painted.

James


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:46 pm 
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James M wrote:
Someone a while ago was asking if the decks were painted when the Iowa went to Tehran.

Navsouce posted these:
http://navsource.org/archives/01/pdf/016105j.pdf
That deck is definitely painted.

James


Something else to note (it seems) that the tops of the 16" barrels are 5-H and not 20-B in that photo.

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1/700 Whiff USS Leyte and escorts 1984
1/700 Whiff USN Modernized CAs 1984
1/700 Whiff ASW Showdown - FFs vs SSGN 1984

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 9:54 pm 
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James M wrote:
Someone a while ago was asking if the decks were painted when the Iowa went to Tehran.

Navsouce posted these:
http://navsource.org/archives/01/pdf/016105j.pdf
That deck is definitely painted.

James


That was me... I got a better copy of one of the pics I posted earlier and came to the same conclusion. Navsource also put up quite a few "new" Iowa pics after she got her first AA weapons improvements and it's pretty obvious her deck wasn't painted even though she otherwise had a MS22 paint scheme, so I can do a bare deck with an open bridge arrangement and still keep a clear conscious. :tongue:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 9:58 pm 
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Some of those shot may have been during a post overhaul shakedown period where they had stripped the decks to give them a fresh coat of paint. No idea what the protocol was on that but I know you can't just keep piling on paint. At some point they'd strip and redo it completely and an overhaul is a perfect time to do it, especially one in a friendly port where the camo isn't as needed.

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1/700 Whiff USS Leyte and escorts 1984
1/700 Whiff USN Modernized CAs 1984
1/700 Whiff ASW Showdown - FFs vs SSGN 1984

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1/700 Whiff USN ASW Hunter Killer Group Dio 1984


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 10:12 pm 
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Cliffy B wrote:
Some of those shot may have been during a post overhaul shakedown period where they had stripped the decks to give them a fresh coat of paint. No idea what the protocol was on that but I know you can't just keep piling on paint. At some point they'd strip and redo it completely and an overhaul is a perfect time to do it, especially one in a friendly port where the camo isn't as needed.


There are color pics of the Iowa on commissioning day and during shakedown with unpainted decks... All I can say is that it appears to me they were first painted just before the trip to the Tehran conference.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 12:01 am 
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It's good to know that I can still surprise myself at how dumb I can be at times.

After painting the upper-two tones on the hull, I decided it was time to paint the AF-red on the bottom. I actually had the paint mixed and in my brush before realizing that every single Iowa - even the Missouri - was built with FOUR screws, not two. D'oh!

So I've spent a good amount of time correctly locating the outboard shafts - this is something I should have done in the 3D model but somehow overlooked - and then upgrading the kit parts. The flange on the inboard shaft has been causing me fits, but I think I've almost got it. The outboard strut is as close as I can get without actual builder's drawings, and is to scale per FDD plans and photos. I decided to post a raw in-process photo in case someone sees something really out of whack. I haven't had too much time to work on this lately, but hope to spend most of tomorrow at the bench, so if you see something, please chime in.

To Mike Connelley: I am not willing to part with the native SW files - too much sweat and blood invested. However if the STL files are not reverse-engineer-able that would be fine. The printer I use is also a 10x10x10 and it takes two runs to print all the parts (the overall length of the replaced section is 19.0").

I would also be happy to print a set for you at cost (which is not much - the tray and the raw material only). There are several others in line already, and please note that the current total time to print the parts is three days... and I still need to make some final changes (adding the outboard shaft for instance).

Send me a PM and we can discuss timeline.

Randy

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 2:51 am 
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Randy: I think the struts supporting your outboard shafts bend too conspicuously, and the bend is too far from where the struts attach to the hull.

On the missouri, the bend in the strut is hardly noticeable:

http://navsource.org/archives/01/063/016300j.jpg

And is located almost at the point where the strut attaches to the hull:

http://navsource.org/archives/01/063/016332.jpg

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Last edited by chuck on Sun Jan 11, 2015 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:07 am 
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Randy,

Well, I missed that "little" detail also - I went back and sure enough, the outboard shaft openings were missing. These things happen - don't beat yourself up too bad, you caught it in time.

I don't know that I have any other photos of any of the IOWAs that would help. I'm not sure what Chuck mentioned above, but here is one shot of BB62 in LBeach (1981) of her port outboard entry point:
Attachment:
BB62 Shaft No. 4 - LBNSYD 1981_1 (Medium).jpg
BB62 Shaft No. 4 - LBNSYD 1981_1 (Medium).jpg [ 122.48 KiB | Viewed 473 times ]

Hope this helps!

I hope you didn't lose too much paint in the sprayer!

Hank

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HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS PENNSYLVANIA (BB-38) Late '40 1:200
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 1:16 pm 
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Randy:

Looking at the photo on the previous page of this thread there is no curve in the strut supports and I cannot imagine why there would be one. These continue fairly deep into the hull structure. Hey, don't feel bad about the shafts, my outboards were located and installed long after the hull was otherwise finished. Yours look good of styrene, I did mine out of brass with the original idea of RC. However after getting overboard in small fragile detailing I decided against it.

Regards. Tom


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 5:35 pm 
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There is a slight bend in the outboard arm.
The curve is there so the arm attaches to the foundation at almost a 90 deg angle. Stronger attachment and less resistant to cracking.

Image

James


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