The Ship Model Forum

Hi Guys,



keeping it alive!
faithfully submitted!

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"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"

Nothing obsessive about this shot in MY book. Guess what! I cut out the SAME ladder well on both sides through all three decks, and after painting, I'll be putting in the same inclined ladders!!!!! (Not to mention I added the hatches and the portholes as well!!!!)

Tom

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Tom Hathaway

Hi Guys,
Tom,
I would call it, "taking it to the next level", as we're taking what Tamiya gives us and making it better; Simply stated.
Over 2 and a half years ago, when I first got onto this website I recall knowing nothing and wanting to know more..lots more. This 1/350 Missouri was going to be my best effort and I did NOT really know what I was getting into. Then, I started seeing what other modeler's had done to this kit. The amount of photo-etch, resin bits and resin conversion sets that are/will be available is mind boggling. After seeing every 1/350 Tamiya Missouri kit on the gallery here and elsewhere..... some built the Missouri right out of the box, about the same amount added p/e details, fewer did conversions to other ships in the class, fewer still did major changes...and the fewest added their own wood deck planking. Now, if I was going to add wood deck planking wouldn't it also make sense that I'd be adding all of the remaining pertinent details? Just a personal decision making process. By the way, The owner of Nautilus Models was at OrangeCon last October. He spotted my unfinished Missouri spread out all over one of the hotel lobby tables as I shared with a fellow ship modeler from Orange County...this Missouri journey. This man from Nautilus Models said he manufactured wood decks as replacements for various current kits, (Revell Type VII u-boat and some of the Trumpeter 1/350 carriers), and he was wondering if we'd be willing to buy a wood replacement deck for the Tamiya Missouri kit. I said that I'm sure he'd sell a few, as this kit just keep on going! We'll see if he decides to go from subs and carriers to battleships. I kind of hope he does. Having choices is what modelers want, I think.
I decided NOT to add wood deck planking, but to change pretty much everything else on the kit...in some way.
Like Tom said about the ladders going from 01-02-03-04. It adds something where there would otherwise be nothing, (big difference), and if you look at scale drawing or pics of the real ship...they're there! Every picture I see of the Missouri..they're there! I kept going back and forth about those silly ladders, and decided to cut a bunch of rectangular holes and make it happen.
I am glad I did.
Tom, got pics?
faithfully submitted, Tony Bunch

ps I just got some remarkable, (and remarkably small), pre-production 1/700 USN doors and hatches form L'Arsenal. I might use them on my current New Jersey and Adams Class DDG. Boy are they small! Boy are they nice!

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"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"

Tony, I'm getting ready to take some photos within the next few days or so. I have completed the L'Arsenal foredeck to the point it's ready to paint. My plan for that is to spray in Deck Blue and hand paint the vertical surfaces and items which are supposed to be Haze Grey. I can't figure out any way to effectively mask without getting into the next PRESIDENTIAL elections . I'm also getting close on the center section with the 00, 01, 02 and 03 levels plus the deck house with the 6 40 mm platforms.

My plan for this is the opposite, i.e. leaving off things like the inclined ladders, I'll spray the entire structure (less the small add on details) Haze Grey, and then do the Deck Blue by hand. Again I'm sure that will wind up with better results than trying to mask.

I've got almost all the PE added and the "scratch built" stuff for those levels and I'll take pictures before I paint.

BTW, did you "cut out" the inboard portion of the two 40 mm tubs by the rear tower with the MK 37? The kit has completly enclosed circles, but the drawings show that the tub ends before the deck house and has "steps" going up into the tub. So I cut out 1/4 of the PE ready racks, cut off the back end of the tub, and wound up inserting a styrene panel into the opening of the deck house where the tubs install (if that makes sense).

But I DID leave off the steps!!! WAY to small!!!

Thanks again for all your help and the great photos!!

(BTW, have you gotten to the point where you've installed the 5" turrets and the 40 mm mounts?)

Tom

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Tom Hathaway

Hi Guys,
Tom,
Sorry for not responding sooner....
Masking you say?
It's usually easier to mask a flat horizontal surface, but it will be tedious either way you go. Being good at masking is tougher than being good at painting...my opinion. You can NOT be in a hurry. Easier said than done!
I have spent as much time masking as any other major procedure on one of my more complicated ship projects....
I spent 3 hours masking on Sunday morning, just to paint half of the vertical surfaces on 1/700 BB62. Today, I airbrush almost everything. I did hand paint the raised deck details on my 1/700 BB62 with a small pointed brush, and I used the pre-mixed airbrush paint for this. I am talking about the haze grey vertical deck details here.
Order of painting you say?
I painted the oil based paints on first...deck tan and deck grey and allowed days..to dry. I would then be ready to apply the acryl colors. I have found this to be a good practice.
You can mask right on top of fully dried oil based paints and not have any paint lift away when you remove the tape...usually.
Cleanliness is next to Godliness to be sure.
Going backward a year or more to my 1/350th Missouri....
Here I am saying hello to Jacques from L'Arsenal, (staged picture), and I am doing quite a bit of masking on the stern of the main deck. Yep, I wrapped tape around all of the different deck details after painting them haze grey, and I always listen to music! Can't do without the opti-visor either!

After masking, I painted the deck tan color in this area...then unmasked...
Here is what I got after spending some"quality" time masking!

Results will vary! They do for me. Even after masking and painting, some touching up is usually needed. I would save the unused portion of pre-mixed paint for the airbrush just for doing touch-ups.
Tom,
The area you mentioned near the aft main battery director and Mk37 director tower, I have not spent much time on yet. I will remember what you said about the 40mm gun tubs in this area not being 360 around.
I keep finding 1/700 projects to intervene....
Back and forth, back and forth...that is soon to change...
faithfully submitted, Tony Bunch

_________________
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"

Hi Guys,
Thomas,
I ordered from JAG today. Tom said it'd be a week or so. They are behind a bit.
No problem.
I ordered 40 life raft baskets, (20 for each of us), an Iowa upgrade set and two CH-46 SeaKnight helicopters. I already have an Iowa upgrade set, but I over-did-it when surfacing the bottom of the 5" twin mounts.
For the JAG 16"50 turrets, you can use the Tamiya or Trumpeter kit barrels, Clipper Models Brass Barrels or Steve Nuttal's barrels. Work is required no matter which way you go. I have decided to use Steve Nuttal's barrels on my current New Jersey, (need to order them soon), as I have not yet seen these beauties. I must see them!
I have used the Clipper models barrels twice before,a dn I liked them...fine.
BB's Forever!
Tony B

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"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"

Hi Guys,

Just a quick question: What is the actual size of the deck planks on the Iowa class BB's? And what would that come out to in 1/350?

OK, sorry, 2 questions...


Bill

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The kids never ask me, "Are we there yet?"

Hi Guys,
Bill,
Ah yes!
According to the Floating Drydock planbook for the Mighty Mo:
Deck planking on 01 deck was 5" wide. 5" in 1/350th scale would be .014" spacing. That's all I can give you as fact. I have heard that the main deck planking was narrower, but I can't quickly prove that.
Good skill to you!
Tony B

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"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"

Hi Guys,

Tony, Thanks for the info.

This is going to be a case of practicality over accuracy. Even I'm not crazy enough to think about trying properly scaled planks. If I have this figured right, HO scale 1x2's (.012" x .024") would come out at just about 8 1/2" wide in 1/350 scale, and 1x3's at about 12 3/4"

But, the numbers are only numbers and don't help all that much. What I think I'll do is buy a package of 1x2's and a package of 1x3's. Cut half at 3/4" and half at 1". Then make 4 different sized, planked 'test decks' and see which looks the best. If I can get clear enough pics, I'll post them here and ask everyone's opinion.

Bill

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The kids never ask me, "Are we there yet?"

OK, here's one for you guys. I'm working on the 1/350 Missouri, as in the July-August 1945 time period. I know that the oxygen tanks stowed on the outside of the bulkheads should be the standard green color that they always are. And as far as the acetylene tanks I'll probably just leave them grey. But what about some of the other details stuff, specifically the fire hoses along the sides of the bulk head. Should they just be left the overall haze grey as the rest of the vertical surfaces or should they have some other colors?

What about any of the other equipment on the decks and bulkheads? Just leave them grey?

Tom

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Tom Hathaway

Tom:

I'm doing the same era Missouri. How do you determine which tanks are oxygen and which ones are acetylene and their placement?

Regards,

Charlie

Charlie, it's pretty much a guess. I'm using the GMM PE set and they have a mix of "tall" tanks (oxygen I'm assuming) and "short" tanks which I'm assuming are supposed to be acetylene. I'm using the guide for placement they have in their instructions since it's the best I've got.

Using photos, you can pretty much see where a lot of the tanks are placed along the bulkheads, and there are some builder's models which show some others, but it's really hard to tell. And besides, I wouldn't treat the requirements for placement of these movable objects like I would for say the number and location of 40mm mounts for example. I figure this is almost like bustle rack stowage on armored vehicles. Stuff might change on a day to day basis.

One thing that concerns me about the GMM instructions, is that is shows a LOT of the tall tanks and not so many of the short ones. I would have thought there'd be more of a mix. I'm assuming these are all for welding primarily for damage control (?) and you'd probably want almost as many of each, but I just don't know.

Hopefully there are some good answers available from some of the others who may have alread gone over this topic.

Tom

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Tom Hathaway

I have just received a bottle of Mr. Metal Colour Bronze paint. I am planning to use it to finish the propellers on the New Jersey and Missouri.

It is an acrylic resin paint that contains metal powder that can be polished to a metallic finish after applying.

The bronze is definitely a green tinted finish. I am not a metal expert, but I understand that bronze has a green tint. Most of the finished models I see have bright "gold" type finishes on their propellers. I have heard that they are impressive looking, but not accurate.

Does anyone have any experience with what the ship propellers actually look like, or comments?

Thanks,

Charlie

Two flag questions:

I have just received several cloth flags from Model Flags.

On the modern New Jersey, what size flag would normally be flown? I have the Commander Series Models decal sheet and their instructions indicate that battleships flew a flag which measures out to 20mm in 1/350. I also have a 15mm version.

Then, on the Missouri (1/350) on WWII surrender day... there were two flags flown according to Stillwell. They appear to be different sizes, but picture angles can be deceiving. Any ideas on what the sizes were?

Thanks in advance.

Charlie

Two more items for tonight:

1) At shipcamouflage.com the following item is noted when reviewing WWII instructions: "All Glass windows shall be removed, rolled down, or covered, unless conditions are such that light reflection from their surface is unknown". Again, for the Missouri on surrender day, were all the portholes effectively painted over, or covered? (Pictures in Stillwell's book seem to indicate they were haze gray unless open.)

2) JBOT decals is back in business after a lengthy absence caused by computer problems (http://www.jbot.ca). He has an interesting modern battleship decal sheet in 3 scales. I have ordered the 1/350 to finish the flight deck on the New Jersey in it's late scheme. I wish I had the sheet before I used the Tamiya sheet for other areas!!!! (I may be removing and replacing some of them.. depends on how venturesome I feel after checking them out.)

Hi Charlie,

What are your experience with these cloth flags? Are they pretty thin cloth material? Are the edges of the flag nice and trimmed? Where can I find them?

I hung a large (Tamiya decal) flag off the fantail of the 1/350 New Jersey and it became brittle when dried. Accidentally hitting it, I cracked it and eventually it has to be replaced; by another decal flag.

Would a pre-printed photo edge flag be a good alternative to cloth? Not sure if any PE manufacturers have them, yet.

Thanks in advance.

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Cheers, Jim
"Live Long and Prosper"...Spock

Jim:

The flags are printed on both sides of a thin cotton material. There is a "flap" on the end that you can fold over the rope line and glue. I just received mine yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to use one yet. I think I will give it a try later tonight, or sometime early next week.. travel in between. Visually, they are very good!

There is an illustrated set of instructions on how to use their flags on their web site (http://www.modelflags.com).

I have read several articles where the users have gently "wrinkled" the material to get a wavy effect with good results. One article suggested using a thin mix of water and white glue to form the flag, others said it wasn't necessary.

The company makes both vinyl and cloth flags. they have an excellent reputation for customer service. I asked them is they had the "Do Not Tread On Me" flags which all US Navy ships are flying now (it was not listed on their web site). They said yes. After ordering there was a delay in getting the Do Not Tread flags. They corresponded immediately, gave me an update, and then notified me the day they shipped.

Hi Guys,
Charlie,
Did you ever find out what the flag sizes are supposed to be? I could not give a reply to that topic query, as I did not know the answer.
In the past, I figured that the kit supplied flag(s) would be close to the right size, if not correct. As a default, I usually used the smallest kit flag. As a result, the research effort went no further. Once again, just an assumption.
Soon enough I will want a flag like you mentioned for my 1/350 Missouri, Whatever she'd be flying enroute to the states after the surrender...peacetime.
Victorious,
Thanks!
faithfully submitted, Tony Bunch

_________________
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"

Tony:

I have not been able to find out what the flag sizes were, so I'm going with your advice and using the decal flags as a guide. I'm going to use the 15mm Stars and Stripes and the 10mm Do Not Tread On Me (the New Jersey is flying that flag at the bow as are all US Navy ships now).

QUESTION: The Tamiya Missouri (1/350) has fire hose stations molded on the superstructure in several places. However, they are not in all the locations that you can see on the Gibbs and Cox model (although they have a very similar physical appearance). I think I am going to scrape them off and replace them with the Gold Medal hose stations on their Watertight Doors PE sheet. They look different that the ones on the Gibbs and Cox, but I think they look more realistic. Has anyone else used this approach?

Regards,

Charlie

Hi Guys,
Charlie,
At first, I attached the GMM fire hoses directly to the molded in place
ones on my 1/350 Missouri.
.......THEN I BECAME AN IOWA CLASS FAN!!
After that, I was sanding and scraping, just like on a real ship!
The 2 dimensional shape of the photo-etch hoses is enhanced a little when you attach directly to the molded in place fire hoses.
You may see how it looks both ways, and of course, in certain places where there are no molded in place fire hoses, you'll have no choice, (unless you want to add something to, "thicken", the p/e part), but to add directly to the, "naked", bulkhead beneath.

In short, I have done both.
I recommend you use the John R Haynes 1/192 Missouri as a second "builders model", as I believe it to be more accurate...after studying a ga-jillion pictures of Missouri!
be well, Tony Bunch

_________________
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"