The Ship Model Forum

As for the grey you chose, if it looked right to you, then that's all that counts. Let's face it: if you ask 10 different people they will give you 10 different opinions. So, if you are happy with it that's all that counts!

Of course, if you should ever decide to build a new model of Hood, then please take a look at our newly updated painting instructions at http://hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/tip ... htm#ap507b
We have an updated list of exact matches and close paints. Should make it easier for folks to find things locally or economically.

As for decks, what we know about her teak deck is in that article; Unpainted wood (dulled-down most likely but not grey nor black). I should note that her decks still look pretty good today...on the stern wreckage that is! I as just looking at some unpublished footage and photos and am still amazed that the area looks as good as it does (or at least it did in 2001).

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

That information is certainly helpful. I suppose I can by the Model Master enamel color and be fine. As for the anti-fouling, any recommendations as to what shade of red the Royal Navy WWII anti-fouling red should be?

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Thomas E. Johnson

http://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasEJohnson

I prefer waterlines (limited display space) so I haven't tested many reds really. I would think however, that the shade you use would be dependent on what the topside of the ship looks like: I've seen many models that are notably weathered above but have pristine lower hulls. That just looks off (to me). I would expect to see some degree of weathering, fading or mottling below as well...from the lower portion of the boots stripe on down (at least that's what I see in photos of Hood in dry dock).

If modelling her as sunk, her lower hull would not be pristine; her topside paint would be nicer than her underwater bits. (She was repainted earlier that month...but it had been some time since her bottom had been treated). Of course, if someone were to paint the ship that way it would look weird to most people. Historically accurate or not, it would be odd looking. So, perhaps the best plan is to achieve a balance...maybe fade and shade the underside red. A little grey might do wonders.

Best Paint Match-
Colourcoats RN19 is s great match for fresh RN anti fouling paint. As you can see, it's not as bright as USN or KM but also not as brown as IJN. So, find something that is similar to that.

Other Paints-
I haven't actually used it and have only seen it online, but Model Masters 2165 might work. It seems a bit dark, so you might need to lighten it with grey or something though. Hopefully others can comment on this.

I recall seeing a decent Humbrol shade for a somewhat faded anti fouling red as well...I believe it was a "wine" Colour.

Again, hopefully other RN modellers who have gone the full hull route, can comment on this.

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Thanks for the mention Frank

The German colour is really dirty brown despite many painting Bismarcks with post-box red underwater hulls.



I usually fade my underwater hulls a bit just to break the mass of red up a little

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James Duff
Sovereign Hobbies Ltd
http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

Current build:
HMS Imperial D09 1/350
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=167151

From those color tins, the RN color looks to be more of a dark cherry red, the IJN color looks to be a very bright red (I painted my Yamato with Tamiya Hull Red), the USN color a wine red color (my 1991 Missouri is painted with dark scarlet, which might be to bright but looked right to me based on photos of the 1980s navy era), and the KM color looks to be a muted shade of the modern USN color.

My 1/350 Yamato, Bismarck, and Hood, all have Tamiya Hull Red XF-9 as there bottom color.....

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Thomas E. Johnson

http://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasEJohnson

I really like the underside red effects on the Hood and panzerschiff! That's what I was talking about!

As for MM2165, I was wrong...that's waaaaaay too brown. That's not so much a Hood colour but rather more a Bismarck colour!

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

What would be needed to back-date a 1/200 or 1/350 Trumpeter Hood to say, 1936-1938-ish? Or any other significant period?

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Let's see...that would be the following:
A third anchor, capstan and related gear.
Removal of degaussing coil and fairings.
Removal of UP from B (well, all UPs actually)
Reconfigure lower bridge (signal platform)
Reconfigured "box" area of bridge (Torpedo Platform and Forebridge platform)
Reconfigured Admirals Bridge ( should be easy to modify current kit part)
Replace forward Air Defence Platform (it was taller and more angled)
Add Torpedo station below Control Top
Add foretopmast mast
Add director rangefinder above control top
Add5.5" gun mount cut outs
Add searchlight platform between funnels
Add directors abreast funnels
Add 5.5" guns and 4" single bbl guns
Replace several boats with steam pinnaces
Add large Carley Floats
Remove splinter shields from boat deck (for 1938 you'd keep the overall shape though...for 37 and earlier, you'd have to cut away much of the deck)
Remove searchlights from abreast after concentrating position
Might have to move various directors around.
There are other things as well, but these are the biggies. Obviously, some of the existing parts can easily be modified...but things like the guns, directors and boats would be good to have created anew.
I'm sure others can comment on this as well.

If they released a 1931 version we could easily merge the two, but I doubt they'll do a 1/200 1931.

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Fantastic list!

_________________
Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Another period we are frequently asked about is 1923/24...the timeframe of Hood's trip around the world. 1936-1938/Spanish Civil War is the most often asked about period though.

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

I'm finally getting back into assembling ship kits...and what better way than to start with something I have many kits of: HMS Hood (what else?). I'm practically falling over them as I have so many.

I'm specifically resuming work on my 1/350 Trumpeter kit. It was started (but quickly suspended) many years ago. It will be a waterline build. I've made progress but have run up against a problem (more below).

First, the status. Here's what I've done thus far:

1. The stern and centre deck section have been glued in place. The foclse piece has been test fitted but not glued yet. I've stiffened the hull (it was very flexible) under the deck(s) using plastic rods.

2. I've scraped off the degaussing cable and anchor cables. Its a big "gougey" here and there, but not show-stoppingly bad. A little putty will do wonders in correcting this (as will the photoetch parts that go in these areas).

3. I've been working with the large structural panels such as those in the Lion Roar and Big Blue Boy sets. I have them, so I figure I might as well use them. The panels - which replace the plastic kit parts of the bridge base, rear screens the side openings of the former 5.5" batteries as well as the bits above the torpedo mantlets - are too thin to use as-is and too thick if added over top (unaltered) kit parts. True, I could sand/file here and there to make it fit, but am confident it would go lopsided/wavy at some point. I've found that my best alternative is to use plastic card as backing material...use something that when combined with the photoetched panels, will have the same thickness of the original kit parts. Its easy to trace, cut, drill and put into place. I hope that it will allow the brass to fit better and not result in too many seams (something I've noticed in other builds that use these parts).

4. I also drilled out all 8 hawsepipe openings in the focsle, bow, quarterdeck and stern. I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to proceed now though: I tried cutting tubing to fit in the bow hawsepipes, but they are a bit off (too angled and far apart) and the hull gets in the way (it seems I'd have to make it paper thin to work). Only something very thin will reach between the two (but still at somewhat of an angle). Milliput might work (though I've never been that great with it). Not sure I can do one piece hawsepipes...but I might be able to " fake it" with two pieces and a bit of putty. Ah, if only they had pipe covers on all three openings in 1941, but alas there was just the one...

I'd appreciate some new suggestions from those of you who built the Trumpeter 1/350 (and worked on opening the hawsepipes). What did you do for your models? What can you recommend for folks who may not be as advanced in their modelling techniques? Do you have any photos that show what you did?

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Well, as there have been no suggestions, I'm having a go on my own...I am in the process of adding plastic card/spare plastic parts inside the hull behind and surrounding the hawse pipe openings. Its enough space for anchor stocks to pass through, whilst also creating a surrounding/supporting structure for the putty that will be needed in the next phase.

My plan for the putty is to apply it so that it fills the interior boxed off space and overlaps into the edge of the hawsepipe "lips." May have to apply additional layers near the lips and build those areas up gently though. Additionally, I'm thinking of using a lightly lubed stick to create a centre channel...this channel would follow the path of the anchor stocks and would also serve as central reference point for filing, sanding and contouring. Although I don't expect the putty to adhere to the stick (hoping the lube will act as a release agent), I will probably gently rotate the stick periodically until its safe to remove it. Once things are fully dry/cured, it will be a matter of contouring and smoothing.

Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on this?

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Hello Frank,

If you check on my 1/200 Arizona build thread you can see what I used for the hawse pipes. I used some Loctite "Repair Putty" to make the areas solid. The putty is fairly solid before it cures, about the consistency of cookie dough, so it was easy to stick it in place and then work with it. I let it cure slightly and then used a drill to open up the pipe, then left it to harden. Once it cures this stuff is solid as a rock, but still easy to drill and sand to shape. I need to go back with some regular putty and clean it up, but that Loctite stuff made easy work of the big part of the job.

I'm not sure if you can get the specific Loctite putty I used in the UK, but I'm sure you could find a similar product or get it online.

Good luck!

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-Nelson
Current Project:
1:200 U.S.S. Arizona
1:350 U.S.S. Chicago SSN-721

Future Projects:
All of them!

Many thanks Nelson...I'll head over to Home Depot or Lowes and check it out (I live in the US actually...long story).

Frank

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Frank,

My bad! I wrongly assumed based off your credentials with the Hood Association and that you knew the survivors in person that you were in the UK. Guess you moved! haha

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-Nelson
Current Project:
1:200 U.S.S. Arizona
1:350 U.S.S. Chicago SSN-721

Future Projects:
All of them!

Hello Hood fans!

We have another new find to announce: Forum member CAG has found evidence of a previously undocumented bulkhead/splinter shield at the base of the bridge! Specifically under the extended signals platform...it starts where the bridge previously ended (under the HACS) and extends aft to the wide rear corners. It appears to follow the curve at the rear of the deck. EJ Foeth and I looked through our materials and have found plenty of additional photographic evidence and are convinced CAG found something pretty big! We ran it by Maurice Northcott who also concurs and thinks it could be one of the various updates made during the Spring 1940 update.

To learn more, see the Pontos 1:200 Hood Detail set thread at viewtopic.php?f=16&t=162889&start=120#p699465

Unfortunately it means all of our existing/finished models are now a little less accurate! LOL!

Fortunately, it's an easy mod to make to a model under construction...it would just require a little plastic stock and putty. Not sure how easy it would be to alter an existing model though.

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Hello Hood experts and fans!
I have a rather easy question (for you experts):

Where was this photo taken? The description says March 17 1924. I would assume Australia...? I am making a painting of her using that photo, and if anyone could tell me the location, I might be able to figure out the colour for the sea... Or maybe someone could also point out the right colour for that particular location?

Thanks!

Aop

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On the way:
--1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

--1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

And our artworks!

As always, you can find this info on the HMS Hood Association website. Here are the specific answers to your questions though:

She was in Melbourne at that time. As for colour, she was in standard Home Fleet Dark Grey. Please see http://hmshood.com/history/empire%20cruise/index.htm for info on the visit
and
http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/tips/hoodpaint.htm for info on the colours.

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk

Thanks for the answers, Frank! So I was right, she was in Australia at that time. What I was mentioning about the colours are actually that of the sea. But thanks for your reply anyway. I still wonder though why the photo looked so light when she actually was wearing a dark colour...
For the sea, I might go with a more bluish tone as it's Pacific.

Thanks!
Aop

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On the way:
--1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

--1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

And our artworks!

Her colour (as well as the colour of everything else) will depend on numerous variables...paint stocks, lighting conditions, and most important of all, film type (some absorbed more red, some absorbed more blue, etc.).

The key thing for this mission is that she was gleamingly clean while in port.

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Frank Allen
H.M.S. Hood Association
http://www.hmshood.org.uk