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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 11:29 am 
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dul wrote:
Hello,

Does the New Yamato Super Detail-up DX Pack worth it for the "Premium" Tamiya Yamato ?


I assume you are talking about the Mk1 kit. It is made the for the Tamiya "Premium" Yamato 78025 only.
But honestly it is inferior to the Pontos "Advanced" PE kit and the Lion Roar. Both of those kits offer much more and also do some things better than the other that I have seen some hardcore rivet counters mix the two. The Mk1 is also priced too high for what you get and the instructions are no better than Pontos.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 4:03 am 
EpsilonZer0 wrote:
I assume you are talking about the Mk1 kit. It is made the for the Tamiya "Premium" Yamato 78025 only.
But honestly it is inferior to the Pontos "Advanced" PE kit and the Lion Roar. Both of those kits offer much more and also do some things better than the other that I have seen some hardcore rivet counters mix the two. The Mk1 is also priced too high for what you get and the instructions are no better than Pontos.


Yep, it was about the Mk1 kit. Thanks for your answer, I'll see the Pontos and Lion !


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 12:22 pm 
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FW_Allen wrote:
For Big Y as lost, we're talking overall Kure grey with black funnel top & mast right?

I've gone through tons of past posts and see conflicting info on decks though. What's the latest consensus (assuming there is one) on decks? Was the flight deck unpainted concrete, some different non-slip coating, or was it painted the same color as rest of ship? I see the linoleum strip areas as being sometimes linoleum brown and sometimes grey...what's up with that? Lastly, any updates on the wooden decks - unpainted but greyed wood or stained (rather re-stained) with soot/oil/stain? I'm assuming this last one is still a point of contention. The decks look dark in the last photos, but they could just be wet of course. I see white markings at various stations as well. Can anyone shed any light on number and locations?


Does anyone have any info on this?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 12:55 pm 
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FW_Allen wrote:
FW_Allen wrote:
For Big Y as lost, we're talking overall Kure grey with black funnel top & mast right?

I've gone through tons of past posts and see conflicting info on decks though. What's the latest consensus (assuming there is one) on decks? Was the flight deck unpainted concrete, some different non-slip coating, or was it painted the same color as rest of ship? I see the linoleum strip areas as being sometimes linoleum brown and sometimes grey...what's up with that? Lastly, any updates on the wooden decks - unpainted but greyed wood or stained (rather re-stained) with soot/oil/stain? I'm assuming this last one is still a point of contention. The decks look dark in the last photos, but they could just be wet of course. I see white markings at various stations as well. Can anyone shed any light on number and locations?


Does anyone have any info on this?



Not sure about the concrete deck - But every Japanese reconstruction I've seen has them painted gray.

For the wood decks - despite the sometimes conflicting 'theories' and posts - I have as close to definitive information as we can ever find (as I always post when this comes up), to wit:

Mitsuru Yoshida (writing in 1946) states plainly in "Requiem for Battleship Yamato" that her decks were painted "JET BLACK" for the final mission. Later on in the book he comments on the grotesque appearance of her decks after repeated bombs and bullets had torn the decks apart exposing the wood.

So the wood decks should be painted black. The concrete should be (presumably) the same gray as the hull color. Can't go wrong with those choices. :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 1:51 pm 
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He also said the water was jet black. Why hasn't anyone else said they were painted black in 1945? I would need verification before I painted it black. A wet graying deck could look black at an angle.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 3:24 pm 
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Senkan wrote:
He also said the water was jet black. Why hasn't anyone else said they were painted black in 1945? I would need verification before I painted it black. A wet graying deck could look black at an angle.


As with all modelers, what shade you use is up to you. When I built my Nichimo custom Yamato way back in 2007, I painted the decks wood color - which they presumably WERE - until they were painted (or smudged?) some shade of black for the final mission....

As far as the water looking black, well, it was an overcast day in the middle of the ocean. I'd say it was probably a good description ... especially when the survivors were bobbing up and down covered in thick oil ....

... anyway, its your choice ... there's no right or wrong answer ... :cool_2:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 3:52 pm 
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Thank you gentlemen. This information definitely helps!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:46 pm 
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For what it is worth (not much, really) there are some photos of Yamato's final mission where the wooden decks look a bit darker than the non-wood decks, and some photos where the wooden decks look a bit lighter. However, I have seen some photos where the black on the funnel is clearly darker than the wooden deck, so for that reason my opinion is that decks were not black black, but maybe just darkened. Of course, photos can always be deceptive...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 7:32 pm 
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I dislike Lion Roar AA guns because they are all flat PE. Even the barrel are edged out of flat copper sheet. When assembled they look like something out of miniature pop up book.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 10:06 pm 
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I wonder if Yamato and Musashi had the same amount of fans or if it was an error in shipbuilding....

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:04 am 
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I like posts that correct flaws in kits. :heh:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2019 1:53 pm 
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This is really interesting. Thank you for posting! Still new things to discover on these ships. (And with every one of these discoveries my own 1/200 custom Nichimo becomes more inaccurate :frown_2: )

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:26 pm 
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Wow. So much information. Thank you!

So ... fellas .... it means that you can paint the 1945 Yamato deck either tan, gray or black ... and you won't be wrong - because the final answer is uncertain .... (I feel better now about painting mine wood color on my Nichimo!)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 4:39 pm 
It seems all my post were gone, maybe due to database crash...Even my account as well.. Owner and Founder Timothy Dike helped to approve my account again..thank you so much. I will re-post again from the beginning..

Greetings All, Razif here from Malaysia. :wave_1: Been building/collecting Perfect/Master Grade Gunpla...

Now I am planning to start model ship building and would like to challenge me self by getting the 1/350 Tamiya 78025 kit.
Knowing there's a lot of modellers out there been building this kit since it came out. One thing I notice that this was one of those ships the blueprint/pictures were mostly destroyed and Tamiya (Other Brands also) been updating since, and based on the 1999 exploration, ex crew and etc. It was said at that time (2012) 78025 was the most accurate version of Battle for Okinawa.
I didn't start building the kit yet, But started doing some research of the ship it self for a month now, Multiple forums (including here)/Bloggers/youtube/ and Final ship configuration done by modellers.
As Yamato and Musashi data were lost due to war, I felt that the correct configuration guide of list was not available in one place with a lot of questions need answering.

I hope by doing this may help me and those who want to build the Yamato 78025 kit as accurate as possible.
Lets start with Part 1. Any comments are welcome.

Part 1
Materials- The goodies

1. The kit, Tamiya 1/350 Yamato 78025.
2. Lion Roar PE set RS3511, A lot of it will be used here.
3. Optional for me..Pontos PE set 35003F1, as Jap modelers tend to only use the mast, pole, shielded triple AA and open 12.7 guns. More on this later.
4. Tamiya wooden deck 12645.
5. Genuine model Sandbag & wooden scaffolding Set GM35011.
6. Genuine model Ventilation fans GM3509.
7. Genuine model Bulwark set GM3510.
8. Genuine model IJN ammunition box set GM3505R.
9. Genuine model IJN equipment set for large ship GM3501.
10. Rigging, Modelkasten No.0.3... 0.10mm 5m.
11. Tamiya Hand Rail set A..if one feels the urge for drilling & poking a lot of holes... :big_grin: . Does give a better effect than those fix handrails.

Accessories detail up parts..Optional.
12. Genuine model General purpose deck equipment GNM3513R.
13. Genuine model General Purpose Bridge Equipment Set GNM3514
14. Genuine model Life Buoy Set GNM3507R
15. Genuine model Large Ship First Aid Set (Rudder) GNM3519
16. Genuine model Large Ship Mooring Girder Set GNM3516
17. Genuine model Large Ship Gangway Ladder GNM3515

Whats Genuine model - https://fleetnet.jp/index.php?subcats=Y ... d8dd6ab8d1


Addons-
Just in case those PE AA guns are hard to do for new comers but prefer more details than the kit AA guns.
1. Fine molds Nano Dread WZ4. 1 box
2. Fine molds Nano Dread WZ5. 1 box
3. Fine molds Nano Dread WZ7. 4 boxes

etc..
4. Tamiya Pla plates 0.2mm & 0.3mm
5. Wave 3mm Brass tube
6. Extra IJN Doors, Binoculars, ladders..etc

Books,
1. Tamiya 1/350 Japanese Battleship Yamato Plastic Model Production Guidebook. Search >>(タミヤ 1/350日本戦艦大和製作プラモデル製作ガイドブック (書籍))
2. Model Art Super Illustration Yamato. 2008.

Thnks.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:23 am 
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Greetings All, Seems my above post was under "Guest" :big_grin: My bad.

Part 2
Unshielded triple 25 AA Guns- size matters..

Image
Pontos model is on left and Lion Roar right.
Pontos model is a method in which the kit parts are processed and etched parts are added.
Pontos shavings and barrels are attractive, but the overall sense of precision is likely to rise towards Lion Roar. :big_grin:

Image
If the 25mm machine gun is 1/350, the width would be about 0.4mm.

Image
The kit parts are about 0.7mm, and the lion roar is about 0.2mm..adding surfacer, colour and clear topcoat some weathering would get it to 0.4mm.

Credit goes to Japanese modeler and blogger.

Thnks


Part 3
High angle shielded guns- handrails to add or not..

Image
The photo above shows Musashi's shielded high-angle gun. (The above is "Japanese Naval Ship Photo Book Bespoke Battleship Yamato / Musashi Diamond Company" P.65, and the bottom is P.88) There is a fixed handrail on the front of the shield.

Image
These pictures are Yamato's shielded high-angle cannons from the top in September 1965 (from "Japanese Naval Ship Photo Collection Bespoke Battleship Yamato / Musashi Diamond Company" P.8.), Showa 17 ("Historical Group: Pacific War History Series") No.20 “Yamato Battleship 2 Gakken” (p.38)), January 1945 (from “Japanese Naval Ship Photo Collection Bespoke Battleship Yamato / Musashi Diamond Company” p.101).
There is no handrail on the front of the shield in either photo.

Image
This is a captured image from the DVD “Battleship Yamato: All of Glory and Legends Sleeping in the Deep Sea” released by Bop Inc.
At the time of the seafloor exploration of Yamato in 1999, the top is a 12.7cm high angle gun shield.
After all, there is no handrail.
The possibility that only the handrail has decayed is unlikely because the handrail on the rear side of the lower secondary gun remains.
(The secondary gun is upside down, so the top is the floor.)

Credit goes to Japanese modeler and blogger.

Thnks.

More to come..


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2019 11:04 pm 
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In reference to the last two posts................

I too have a vast sets of PE, Resin, etc......

I have many a time here tried to discuss how to rig all the lines on Yamato, but no one seem to have a grip on this. Rigging schematics, photographs, drawings etc are very hard to find or no one really cares enough to want to make a go of this. One member started this, but stopped and didn't go back to finish his posts. I can't recall the name, but attempted to contact him through message with no response. Anyway, all the detailed sets don't include anything associated with the rigging lines and Tamiya doesn't include a rigging instruction. I contacted Tamiya a longtime ago and never got anywhere with it. So now you have a fully detailed Yamato, guns, portholes, water doors, Ammo boxes, Ladders, Rails and whatever, but nothing to make the rigging accurate with clean connections. I've seen a lot of great builds, but the rigging lines all have a sloppy connection to the attachment points. What good is it to have a beautiful build and kill it with a sloppy inaccurate rigging job. I'm not referring to you guys here, but I've seen this online elsewhere. Someone even used white glue to connect lines together and took the focal point off the ship and put it on the clumpy rigging job. Why is it that no one has a PE set with the rigging attachments? If a perfect or near perfect kit is desired you have to include everything. All I know is that I'm not going to build my kit until I have all points covered.

On the subject of books, The more reference the better. I think I have 20+ just on Yamato. Still looking for more.


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 Post subject: Re: YAMATO RIGGING GUIDE
PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:03 pm 
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katana wrote:
CHAPTER 01. FORESHIP
Step 02. Main Cables Nr 1-2-3-4 over the foreship
Description :
This step will describe the rigging of Main Cables MC Nr 1-2-3 & 4 above the foreship.

Arrangement to simplify our communication :
Just to avoid misunderstandings : cables identification is based on their specific location on the ship.
Cables numbering is done , viewing from stern to bow , starting with Nr 1 on the extreme left , going to the right.
PORT -Side : In this guide it will be addressed as : Left - or Left Side.
STARBOARD-Side : it will be addressed as : Right - or Right Side.

Notice 1: Yamato rigging is a rather complex matter. Due to its size and complexity, the whole rigging of this ship is
divided in clear delimited chapters. Why ? I want to avoid misunderstandings and misinterpretation
on overlapping features. This will show to be very usefull when discussing insulators/location.
This rigging step, “ MC Nr 1-2-3-4 above the fore ship “ is a good opportunity to show that.
Let me explain :
In this rigging step , we will see main cable rigging above the foreship. And although the 4 MC ‘s lead to
the bridge, the different locations on the bridge where they arrive will NOT be discussed here.
Why ? Very simple. Because that specific information is, on purpose, transferred to the “BRIDGE
RIGGING “ chapter. Cables attached to , or passing by the Bridge do NOT interfere with cables that are
hanging above the foreship. At certain time , some of you will be glad that I chopped the whole yamato
rigging guide in so many subchapters. Doing it that way , I’m sure it will remain clear to overview.

Let’s start :
Identification of the 4 Main Cables ( MC) :
MC Nr 1 is the LEFT Outer cable , running from Jackstaff to the bridge.
MC Nr 2 is the LEFT Inner cable, running from Jackstaff to the bridge.
MC Nr 3 is the RIGHT Inner cable, running from Jackstaff to the bridge.
MC Nr 4 is the RIGHT Outer cable, running from Jackstaff to the bridge.

The 4 Main Cables depart per pair from their 2 deck fittings nearby the Jackstaff. MC Nr 1&2 run over the left pulley
and MC Nr 3&4 run over the right pulley of the Jackstaff towards the bridge. But you all knew that , no ?
Main Cables Nr 2 and Nr 3 will travel from the Jackstaff ,over the foreship ,to the bridge without insulators---> See Notice 1

In pic 01, you’ll see that all MC’s are hanging above the fore ship at a respectable height ,heading towards the bridge.
Hint : in this pic, start looking from the Jackstaff and follow the main cables with your zoom.
On the lowest cable (MC Nr 1) you will see 10 little dots. They form a series of 10 brown ball insulators , equally spaced to eachother and spread over a specific route. Keep in mind that MC Nr 1 is the mirror view of MC Nr 4.
Also in pic 01, we see that only 2 of the 4 main cables have those series of 10 brown ball insulators. MC Nr 2&3 do not show any insulators in this picture.

So , on what specific location is the most front insulator attached to MC Nr 1 & 4 ??
Pictures 03, 04 and 05 give a (not so clear) view of the Main Cables , but if you use your zoom , you might get an idea where the FRONT brown ball insulators are attached.
I must admit : this is a twilight zone in this rigging guide. Beside Rob Wood who made these , nobody published any photographs about this area. And certainly not any focused pictures on the main cables, hanging over the foreship.
So , if anyone has better/more clarifying pictures, please show Us. It only will help your fellow modelers.

However !! I discovered that in pic 04, when you zoom & look long enough , you ’ll see in the window , right next to the Japanese Flag, the main cables are visible and somewhat contrasted because of the white background in the adjacent showroom next to Yamato room.

Not only the main cables are contrasted !! We also see 2 tiny dots on 2 of the 4 cables : Yep ! It’s them !!
We are looking at the 2 most front located brown ball insulators on MC Nr 1 & 4 !!
Now imagine a vertical line from the insulators towards the deck . You will notice that this line will hit the deck somewhere BEHIND the capstan. ( Huhh ???) Where is that ?
Ref : Jan Skulski’s AOTS page 153 : this location is at length station Nr 29 of the forecastle.
Pic 06 is better quality and here you ’l see all 4 main cables with insulators on MC Nr 1 & 4. You don’t see the front insulators on MC Nr 1 & 4.
Now we know exactly where the 10 insulator series start . But where does it end ??
See pic 02 . It shows the left side of the bridge , front view. You see MC Nr 1 above in this picture.
It leads to the outer tip of the Bridge LEFT Yard ( middle right position in the picture).
Take a closer look to the area in FRONT ( left upper corner) of the black illumination strip in the ceiling, in front of the bridge : MC Nr 1 features , in chronological order : 1 bifurcation downwards with a White Cylinder Insulator , followed by 1 brown ball insulator. Then you see : 1 bifurcation downwards with a White Cylinder Insulator , and finally : 1 White Cylinder Insulator, attached in line on MC Nr 1.

Notice 2 : The 2 White Cylindrical Insulators that are attached to this bifurcation downwards will be discussed later :
they are NO part of this rigging chapter and will be discussed in rigging step “MC Nr 1 & 4 split
to 155mmFront Antenna”.
The brown ball insulator between the 2 downward bifurcations is the LAST brown ball insulator of the series of 10. I here you thinking ……. WHERE exactly is that ?
Ref : Jan Skulski’s AOTS page 37 : this location is at length station Nr 111 or 112, above the back slope of the
Front 155mm Gun .


Fortunately, pic 07 gives you a better view, lengthwise I mean , where the last brown ball insulator is located.
Use your zoom. Knowing that the BBI is attached right between the 2 downward directed white insulators , it will not be too hard in this picture to get a correct proportional impression. You can clearly see WHERE the bifurcations are located , on what distance from the bridge , under which specific angle the lines depart , etc , etc..
Hint : Use your zoom. slightly UNDER the White Cylinder Insulators on MC Nr 1, with the red brick wall as
background, you may discover 3 “other “ White Cylinder Insulators. This is MC Nr 4. Alive and kicking !!!

AND WHAT ABOUT MAIN CABLES NR 2 AND NR 3 ?????
Simple.
MC Nr 2 and Nr 3 depart from their 2 deck fittings nearby the Jackstaff. MC Nr 2 runs over the left pulley and MC Nr 3 runs over the right pulley in the middle of the Jackstaff towards the bridge. Period.
No insulators are used on MC Nr 2 or Nr 3 in this rigging chapter “above the foreship ".
On all the pictures in this chapter you also can see MC’s Nr 2 & 3. They are not so prominent as MC’s Nr 1 &4 do because they lack the most recognizable feature : insulators.
Also specific for this chapter : In contrast to MC Nr 1&4, MC Nr 2&3 have NO bifurcations towards any other location.

Comments on this rigging step 02
I explained in notice 1, and notice 2, why some specific items/subjects were discussed in this rigging step , and why some of them were omitted/ postponed.
Also for info :
At the end of EACH rigging step , we will make a bilan of all the different insulators that we encountered in that chapter.
If you have any comments / suggestions/ pictures : let Us know.

INSULATORS USED IN THIS RIGGING STEP :
Description :
On MC Nr 2 & Nr 3 there are NO Insulators used in the rigging above the fore ship.
On MC Nr 1 ( and Nr 4 ) we noticed : qty = 10 Brown Ball Insulators ( BBI ) and 1 White Cylindrical Insulator ( WCI)
The 10 BBI’s are located, equally spaced from length station 29 up to length station 111 or 112.
Ref : Jan Skulski’s AOTS page 37 & 153 and pictures in this rigging step : 01-02-03-04-05-06-07
Also noticed on MC Nr 1 ( and Nr 4 ) : 1 White Cylindrical Insulator ( WCI) , attached in line.

Insulator Head Count :
on MC Nr 1 : qty = 10 BBI’s and qty = 1 WCI
on MC Nr 2 : No insulators used
on MC Nr 3 : No insulators used
on MC Nr 4 : qty = 10 BBI’s and qty = 1 WCI

END OF STEP 02

NEXT STEP : MAIN CABLES NR 1 & 4 SPLIT TO FRONT 155mm ANTENNA

Have a nice day.



You Sir, are doing the Lord's work. :worship_1:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:42 pm 
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Thanks for the info!

I did comment on those posts on rigging Yamato. These are very helpful, but I am also looking for a rigging diagram and closeup photos of the connectors and devises used to hang the cables. The lack of these details online or printed in books has me baffled on how to connect these cables in a realistic manner. PE or Resin parts meant for this would be a great help in making your modeling project look more realistic. This was my point of my original post. Even Katana had some missing photos or blurred photos of these parts that leave you wondering what they are supposed to be. As you see in the posts, all the photos are of Yamato Hiroba 1/10 in Kure. I don't see anything close in books that would come close. Tamiya dropped the ball when researching the New Tool Kit by not offering a rigging schematic with the instructions. It's really the only subject that no author wants to cover or can't cover due to lack of accurate drawings or photos. Looks like I'm going to have tp make the parts up by hand or 3D printer.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 3:44 am 
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Hi sailors,

I hope I post in the right section of the forum, as I am new to it.

I am currently building the Yamato in 1:1200 and I am wondering what the flag and the banner on the Yamato stand for which I have seen on a couple of models (see pics). I searched the net, but couldn't find an explanation. That's why I turn to you experts. Anybody an idea for what it stands for?

Thanks for your replies and have a great day,

Jack


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 3:29 pm 
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The smaller ensign with the red band at the top is the flag signifying a vice admiral is a aboard. Vice Admiral Seichi Ito was aboard as commander for the Ten Ichi Go operation, her last, upon which she was sunk,and he killed in action. I believe the banner is spelling out Ten Icho Go, but not sure about that.


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