Calling all HMS Queen Elizabeth class fans

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

...15" MkI mount WIP

ModelMonkey · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:40 pm

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

This photo isn't of great help for the modeler, but the particularity is that it was token from the SM79 of Giulio Cesare Graziani a few istants after he drop his torpedo.

Graziani managed to get home with a 2 meters wide hole in a wing, a present from Barham short range AA guns.

We are used to read that the Barham was a unlucky ship, but not that time ( october 1941 ), torpedoes were sabotaged in the factory ...

Dino

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

I found on the net a nice shot of HMS Valiant after recostruction:

http://www.cyber-heritage.co.uk/psound/ssa7.jpg

RNfanDan · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:52 am

Dino Carancini wrote:

I found on the net a nice shot of HMS Valiant after recostruction:

http://www.cyber-heritage.co.uk/psound/ssa7.jpg

That's a winner--thanks for posting that! :woo_hoo:

J. Soca · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2007 4:24 pm

Hey guys,

I was just wandering, how good is the 1/350 ISW Queen Elizabeth? I’ve seen some pictures of it and even read a review once but I’d like to know a little bit more about it. I love the way this ship looks. I’m still undecided though, I don’t know if I should buy this one or the New Mexico.

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

I though about ISW Queen Elizabeth before to start my own HMS Barham than I chosed the scratchbuildingway because I wanted a more difficult model that would keep me busy for about 5/6 month.

Anyway I think that's a good model, but I never saw it for real, just the master pattern and a finished model on the net, perhaps with some aftermarket parts she would come out wonderful, pom poms, Oerlikons 20 mm ecc. this depends on the budget, mine isn't enough :eyebrows:

A photo from the same source of yesterday:

http://www.cyber-heritage.co.uk/psound/sss85.jpg

ingura · **Posted:** Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:39 am

I was asked to help a fellow ship modeler who needed gunbarrels for his WARSPITE. Since he had no lathe I did it for him.

He provided me with the drawings and I did a plug on the lathe.

The plug was used for a mold and after that I was able to cast the eight identical barrels using resin.

As you see, I could not resist painting one of the barrels :big_grin:

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

Very nice

Joseph R · **Joined:** Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:41 am **Posts:** 98

I've heard that kit is more trouble than it is worth. The photos I have seen don't do much to persuade me, and what I have heard from people who have the model also seems to confirm my suspicions. It's a dud.

I am also planning QE class scratch-builds, amongst other things. Keep in touch about that Dino, what scale are you building barham in? 1/350 I take it??

ddp · **Joined:** Sat Feb 19, 2005 4:27 pm **Posts:** 70

Joseph, i've been building a 1/144 scale of the warspite of ww2. hull is built & plated, anti-torpedo bulges made but needs to be plated & some of the superstructure built.

Joseph R · **Joined:** Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:41 am **Posts:** 98

That sounds awesome. One of my favourite big scale QEs has to be that absolute stunner 1/128th HMS QE built by Roger Antrobus... But alas, such big scales are too big for me to keep, so I'm confined to 1/350.

Can you give me any advice as to how to go about building the bulges?

I also figured that it would be best to build the hull sans bulges, and add them later. Did you build them from shaped wood, or a lofted plastic frame of sections or what?

I'm guessing the curvature on the bulges will be too heavy for plastic to turn through... Though suppose you could cut the frames, and assemble them - then cover the whole thing with electrical tape and fill it with resin... kinda messy but hey.

I am thinking of using a simple block-balsawood method for my hull, and glassing over this, to give a solid and smooth surface, so the straking patterns can be added later using .13mm evergreen plasticard.

ddp · **Joined:** Sat Feb 19, 2005 4:27 pm **Posts:** 70

the hull itself is a balsa wood frame with .040" styrene plates. the bulges is .040" styrene frame filled balsa wood & shaped. will plate that with either .020" or .030 styrene plates.

Joseph R · **Joined:** Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:41 am **Posts:** 98

I see. Using a plastic frame and lofting that with balsa makes perfect sense.

Did you have any warping problems using plastic sheet to loft the hull frame? Or did you just use small plates?

Thanks anyway for the valuable information... I'm slowly planning my method for building the same ship in 1/350.

Cheers,

Joseph

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

Hi Joseph, yes I'm building the Barham in 1/350 :

http://www.shipmodels.info/mwphpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18343

...and I'm about 60% done, I can't wait to start painting.

@ddp: any chance to se a photo of your huge Warspite? I'm curious :eyebrows:

JIM BAUMANN · **Posted:** Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:43 am

Hi guys --I have the ISW QE '43..(inevitably!)

usual mixed bag of ISW

Bits are very good--overall shape is about right...

bulge is higher on one side than the other--not much...-- but it is...!

In fairness you cannot see both sides at the same time ...so... I have left it.

4.5 barbettes missing on stb side (!!!) just holes.

usual casting flasws--with lost of spares to make up.

Will be a very fine model when built, sharpened up and suoperdetailed.

OOB would capture the essence-- but look a bit naked....

I have sanded mine down to waterline level.

I have NMM plans (thanks Roger) etc etc

Nuttall barrels

Books and photos

just need to feel qe43 enthused to get cracking.

Currently fighting a different ISW beast...( 1/192 HMS Victoria) but that is another day and another thread!

ddp · **Joined:** Sat Feb 19, 2005 4:27 pm **Posts:** 70

Joseph, were the hull is flat then i would use a rectangular piece that would cover say several frames but maybe 2" wide. i would start at the bottom of the hull about the middle to start plating. that 1 i would try to cover both sides of the keel for added strength. i use testers tube glue to glue the plates to the frame & to each other. all plates are custom fitted to position to reduce gaps between the plates.

Dino, see what i can do but as i just got a new 5.1 megapixel camera, i have to learn to use it but 1st i want to take pictures of my 1/426 arizona being converted to 1945 pennsylvania which is about 70% built with the deck & above except for main turrets & stack all scratch built.

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

Great, I will wait for both the Pensilvania and Warspite!

Joseph R · **Joined:** Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:41 am **Posts:** 98

Holy smokes Dino, your HMS Barham is stunning! I can't wait for you to start painting it either

Mine will most certainly be modeled full-hull however. It's nice to see photographic demonstration of your techniques. Solid Balsa wood certainly seems like the best option to create a hull.

ddp,

Thanks again for the insight. I think, when considering the shape of the garboard strake typical to RN capitol ship designs... I'll just end up glassing my block balsa hull, if I can get away with doing that.

Dino Carancini · **Joined:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:46 am **Posts:** 412

New photos added on the HMS Barham association website:

http://www.hmsbarham.com/ship/photos.php#photos

In my opinion these photos have been pubblished for the first time now, there are interesting images of the Barham towing HMS Resolution and a new shot of the Barham in the Suda bay, here two of the most interesting:

On the roof of X tower, closeup view of the rangefinder and, on the left some details of the aircraft catapult ... and yes there are rivets :eyebrows:

... but they are low on the roof.

The boats deck with closeup of the aircraft petrol tank, this is interesting also for other british warships.

Enjoy!

Dino

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