I would not even attempt to drive myself mad drilling all those holes--the chances of drill slippage etc is just too great!!
Take a sideways step--and acquire a set of GMM or WEM superfine IJN railings-it may well be worth buying an entire ship set such as Yamato or Nagato or similar to get the finest railing.( some of the parts will be useful now or later!)
Beware- some railing can be 'clunky' and end up looking like a fence-you will be spending MONTHS on your 1/350 Akagi--a few more £/ $ will be a worthwhile investment to get the finest ( thinnest) railings on the market-which my experience hitherto the likes of Hasegewa are not.
David Griffith outlined very precisely the basics- I differ hardly in my methodology hardly at all.
But two point's I can only re-iterate
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1) If you find the PE rails too springy, hard to form around intricate platform outlines etc - run the PE through a flame--candle or lighter
This will soften the metal and remove the spring- all sorts of bizarre shapes can now easily be formed!!
2) Bear in mind that plastic /resin contracts and expands at a different rate to the brass
If for example you rail the model in a warm room--when the model contracts the railings can 'snake' along the deck edge-or worse, part company with the deck edge or even ping off!!!!!
Therefore I always attach railings in
very short lengths-no more than 50 mm( 2 inches) and join the longitudinals to an adjacent stanchion using
thinned white glue( PVA)- this gives 'expansion' joints and prevents the above nightmare scenario!!
Good luck
Jim Baumann- railing addict!
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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
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