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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:44 am 
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Location: Vincennes, FRANCE
those are neutral greys (with no purple components in 1945) as opposed to 5-H;5-N;5-L;etc...(pre-1945)

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 11:21 pm 
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So dumb question- were Gatos identified somehow either with hull numbers or name visually during the war? It seems like especially late war, there is no way to identify the particular ship.

Thanks!

Kyle

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:05 am 
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Location: Ayer, Ma. USA
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..were Gatos identified somehow either with hull numbers or name visually during the war?


No. Numbers would help enemy tracking of sub movements, so once the war commenced, numbers were obliterated. Many submarines had plaques with cartoon logos that were hung on them in port. Also popular were in port battle flags, such as Barb's battle flag: https://www.ussbarb.com/ships-flag.

Modern US submarine also do not have hull numbers or names on them. You will see numbers during sea trails, but once they are commissioned the numbers are gone.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:57 pm 
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Location: Melbourne,Australia
Question on the hull plating for Gato class...

Hi all, I've just started on the Revell 1/72 Gato and whilst I may not go overboard in the detailing, I'll be adding some Eduard and WEM PE and a few other details soon haven't ruled it out.

If I'm making that effort, I'm curious to know if the raised panel lines as per the kit - the joins in the hull plating - are correct. As in, was there a visible weld line between plates? Or should they be recessed and/or have rivet lines like the Eduard deck side plates show?

I've scanned through this thread so sorry if I missed a prior answer, and my PC died so I'm trying to zoom in on navsource pics on my phone which isn't ideal.

Not sure if I'd rescribe them if required yet, but I'd like to know if I should for accuracy (especially if I buy aftermarket tower and other bits, then it's worth the effort against the investment). Any advice or links to clear pics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Darren

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Current builds:
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- 1/72 Gato Class Submarine


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 5:55 pm 
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Hi Darren,

After looking at some photos of the kit, I think the weld lines are way oversized. The weld lines are only prominent in the superstructure/casing. They are barely visible on the outer hull below the superstructure. It also seems that the superstructure is riveted aft of the bow planes. As far as I'm aware, all of the lines are proud of the surface and not recessed.

I would recommend searching around on Navsource to get a good feel of what a typical boat looked like. You can also look at photos of museum ships that weren't converted to Guppys/Fleet Snorkels/SSKs.

Jacob

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:14 pm 
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Thanks Jacob. I should have a new PC on the weekend so will do a better search of Navsource.

I did think the weld/plate lines were too big (they'd protrude the thickness of a hand or so in real life so seemed thick) so will sand them down and look at adding the rivet detail where it's absent. May as well make the effort!

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Darren

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 8:13 am 
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Location: Ayer, Ma. USA
Weighing in late on this point, as I was teaching an intense science course in Europe.

Not directly in line, but as Jacob indicated, weld lines are barely visible. Currently, Electric Boat submarine hull welds are ground down to within 1/16th of an inch of the hull after the multiple weld passes. This is to minimize hull friction with the water, which costs speed and can generate noise. I don't know what WWII standards were, but the welds were probably ground down fairly flush with the hull as well. In Revell's defense, they probably did the best they could with a protruding thin polystyrene piece that was still suitable for injection molding, and figured it was better to have some representation of welds than none at all.

Dragon/DML represented modern sub hull weld joins with recessed scribed panel lines. Recessed panel lines on submarine hulls?? Really?? The only authentic "panel lines" on modern submarines would be for hatches, sail access points, external small storage (line lockers, cleats, etc.). Welds would be invisible (at 1/16th of an inch at 1:1) for 1/700 and 1/350 scale. If they wanted to be more accurate, how about adding the hull bottom ballast tank flood vents & louvers. Without those, it's not a submarine.

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Researcher for: "Azorian: The Raising of the K-129" DVD
http://www.projectjennifer.at/
"Project Azorian: The CIA and the Raising of the K-129" Book
http://www.usni.org/store/catalog-fall-2012/project-azorian


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:05 pm 
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Location: Calgary, AB/Surrey, B.C., Canada
Here're two photos I took of the Pampanito in San Francisco, if it helps - under the particular lighting condition I had, the weld lines are quite prominent in the bow area, while the midships had plenty of raised rivets and overlapping plates. Not sure if construction techniques changed much between the Gatos and Balaos though.


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