1/200 Yamato

[sgtryan13]

Well, after a couple starts and stops due to other projects, I have finally jumped head forst into this massive build.

The kit is the 1/200 Nichimo Yamato, it was made about 30 years ago. It is massive in size, measuring over 54" long, which is the best part and the reason I have wanted to build one of these for so long. The sheer size when I place it next to my 1/350 Yamato is awesome. The bad part is that just about every peice needs major clean up of seams from the molds, and most pieces require photo etch abd scratch built styrene to make them close to accuarte.

Apart from the kit itself, I purchased the Gold Medal Models set adn the GMM extra details brass set, Tom's Modelworks IJN Doors and Hatches set and Tom's portholes set. I think the Tom's doors and hatches have a lot more detail on them than the GMM ones as you will see in pictures. I ordered planks from Northeast Scale Lumber, and I will be planking the entire deck individually.

There are many Yamato experts and purists out there, and I claim to be neither. I am using photos of the 1/10 Kure Yamato model and the 1/35 Yamato as well as several very well done builds of this kit I have found on here and on the net.

I am building this kit to be accurate to a point, but I am also doing some of the smaller details to my preference. Specifically I am placing some of the very nice inclined ladders that come with the GMM set in places where they do not appear to be correct, but I wanted the extra visual interst added to the model. Same goes for the placement of some hatches and portholes, I want to add more detail to some of the bulkheads. I am not adding anything crazy that would be totally out of place, just adding a little extra here and there.

First off is the main gun turrets... They are mis shaped and undersize, but I can live with that. I tried several methods of scratchbuilding the blast bags with disasterous results until I tried air drying child's clay. I like how they look now, and the cracks are easily filled with diluted white glue. I have started to dress up the kit barrels with styrene strip and rod, and GMM brass will be added as well.

[sgtryan13]

The superstructure was warped badly, I fused the joint with thick styrene sheet and clamped it for a couple days, and the problem was solved.

There are not a lot of pictures I could find of the deck with the flag bags on it, but I found some decent ones on the 1/10 kure model, so I took off the kit parts and used styrene and steel rod to make my own, I think they should look ok. I scratch built larger platforms for the ladders going up the back of the superstructure, and I saw a picture of a model with a ladder well in the middle of the deck here, I liked how it looked so I added that detail as well.

[sgtryan13]

Lots of brass added to the overall superstructure. The doors and portholes are from Tom's, everything else is GMM.

Here is where i have taken some artistic lisence, substituting some inclined ladders where they should be vertical or none at all. Different types of portholes added to give more visual interest.

I scratchbuilt a new walkway from the stack to the superstructure to look like a lot of photos I have seen.

[drdoom1337]

Looks great so far

Are you planning to RC it? I was under the impression the kit was sold as an RC model (which is really cool)

[sgtryan13]

Thanks! Thek kit does come with basic motor gear for RC use, but with no radio transmitter or reciever. It also comes with some wiring to make the turrets rotate and searchlights light up. I will not be making her for RC use though, but I do intend to light the interior as much as I can with one set of white lights and one of red lights for battle conditions. I just can't see putting all this time aned money into a ship and then risking her in the local ponds!

[sgtryan13]

And let the madness begin!!!

I Finally recieved the scale lumber I ordered to do the deck planking. I ordered it from Northeast Scale lumber, the dimensions are exactly as ordered, and very consistent. They come in 24" lengths, and i have decided to cut them into 2" lengths for the individual planks. 2" is still overscale, but I think the look of them on the deck is fine, I did not want to goo overboard with insanity if I cut them to 1" lengths. I used a black "Sharpie" permanent marker to color the caulking on each plank, doing one long side and both of the ends. I found that if I colored both long sides the effect was too drastic for my eye's liking once the planks are butted up against each other. I am doing a 3/8" stagger pattern of the planks, again, not exactly accurate, but I like the look it gives.

The Northeast Lumber company planks for the entire ship cost $50, this is less than 1/3 of what I was quoted for the same amount and size when I looked into Kappler lumber products. Northeast's customer service did leave something to be desired though, I was told for over 2 weeks that my order was being cut and would ship tomorrow, but I am very pleased with the product itself.

I was concerned with how I would weather the planks to have them not look all the same, but luckily, I found that the glue caused the marker to bleed just a little, and when I rub my finger over a freshly layed plank, the ink and just the oil form my skin did the weathering variation for me. I tried testors model master glue first, and it has worked perfectly, melting the plastic deck a little instantly, and providing a very strong solid hold for the planks.

[sgtryan13]

Some more details to the superstructure:

I added the stopping braces for the high angle guns using the steel rods supplied with the Nichimo kit, they are intended to be used as rails, but those will be GMM P.E. I bent the braces to shape and studied pictures of the 1/10 Kure model for the shape and placement, then drilled holes for their placement, they add a lot of extra visual intrest.

I added bits of styrene strip to the inside of the open AAA mounts, again lookig at the Kure model for reference. I have started to detail the AAA a little, but it has a way to go still. I have to add all the grab handles for the front and sides of the mount. There is an E bay seller who has a bunch of add-ons he casted to replace these guns, I may just have to shell out some more $$$ and replace them.

[J. Soca]

Awesome progress!


Jose

[Cliffy B]

That deck looks AWESOME!!!!!!!!! Keep it up man, she's a beaut

[sgtryan13]

Thanks, I know the deck is going to be worth all the extra effort in the finished product, but man is it time consuming!

Some more shots, the deck is coming along nicely, so far ther are about 800-900 planks on the deck, with plenty more to go.

The fit of the stern sections where the boat wells are is TERRIBLE!!!! I mean this has to be one of the worst fits on a model I have ever seen. I am messing around with different attempts to clean this up, but I may just try to scratchbuild this area from styren sheet and junk the kit parts. I have also started removing the Degaussing cable that is molded on the ship, so I caqn do the hull plating, then I will scratch build a new cable with crisper details after the plating is done. Nothing is easy with this build, but it is fun, and I am learning a lot as I go.

[caramonraistlin]

Greetings:

Your build is coming along nicely. I started mine several years ago and stopped when I got to the railings/stops for the aaa guns as I couldn't quite figure out the best way to do those. After seeing your detailed pictures I can now see the best way to do it. I also did like you and used modeling clay for the blast bags. Worked like a charm. In addition I also have the GMM sets and they are very nice. I know what you mean about the rear section that holds the boats. Those 2 side pieces just don't fit well at all. My only thought was to use a lot of filler but haven't tackled it yet. What size is the planking that you are using from Northeast Lumber? It looks really nice! Your work has inspired me to start on mine again after I finish building a model of the Tirpitz I've been working on. Please keep the pictures coming. You are doing an excellent job.

Michael Lacey

[sgtryan13]

Michael-

Thanks for the comments!

The planks I ordered for the deck are .012" thick x 1/16" wide. They come in lengths a little over 24" long, so you can trim off the ends, which are a little rough. I double checked, and the cost of the lumber was $43 plus $10 for shipping. Kappler was at least $150, maybe more for the same amount. I think I did my math correct, and this should be enough for the whole ship, I ordered 3 bundles of 50 planks, the 50 planks is the minimum order size.

For the AAA braces, there is also a verticle support that needs to go on the bottom level guns to brace the top cross bar, I will add this made from styrene rod.

That back area is giving me a lot of trouble, I tried something a few days ago and left it to cure the glue before I start sanding and filling again, but if that doesn't work, I am going to try to scratchbuild it form sheet styrene.

This build is fun, but at times can be very frustrating as you well know. I think the stern area should be my last major hurdle, then the rest of the build should be generally straight forward, that is until I get to the rigging part, which I admit, I am not looking forward to!

[sgtryan13]

I tried something I have never done before (seems to be the theme of this build) to simulate the hull plating.

I used Tamiya 10mm masking tape:

First I did the alternating long horizontal runs, I doubled the tape to make the plating thicker for more contrast.

Next, I cut the tape into 3" lenghts and put it on in alternating patterns, to simulate the actual plates.

On the runs where I had no tape originally (so the bare model plastic is seen) I put 1 strip of 3" tape, this is where the double tape on the long runs comes into place, so i did not raise the bare area up to the same level with one strip of tape.

I did the same alternating pattern with 3" strips over the long runs of double tape to make the individual plates here as well.

Then I sealed all the tape (hopefully) with a good coat of future. Once the future was dry, I primed the whole surface with Model asters primer.

I think the results look pretty convincing, but as I said, I have never done this before. I did not have plans to measure the exact dimensions of the hull plating, I went with what I think just looks like a decent plating rendering.

One side of the ship took a little more than one entire roll of the tape.

Any comments or criticism on the plating is much appreciated, it is the only way I can judge if I am doing it ok, or how I can improve it.

[sgtryan13]

A couple more shots of the plating. With all the different layers of tape, there are a total of 4 different heights of plating: The bare model, then one strip on that, Then the double long runs, ans one strip on top of that one.

[sgtryan13]

The hull is really starting to take shape now, I used 2.5mm half round styrene for the degaussing cable. The one molded on the hull was really soft in it's details, so I ground it off with a dremel. The half round rod went on easily, and only needed some clamping for about 15 nimutes around the curves of the bow and stern to fix it in place.

I was not sure how I was going to represent the smaller cables securing the degaussing cable to the hull, when I came across some very fine electrical soldering wire in one of my work desk drawers. THe solder worked great, it is easy to bend to shape, and soft enough to bend it to the inside of the hull to secure it.. I just drilled holes with a # 70 drill bit in my dremel and fed the solder wire through.

I think the palting has a very nice effect now that the hull has been painted. Just a couple small areas where the paint lifted form the masking tape, not sure why it lifted, as I let the paint thouroughly dry, and coated it with a layer of future. I am using model master acrylics for the paint job. I love this line of paints, and have always had good results with it.

[sgtryan13]

A few more hull shots with paint done. I also started scratchbuilding the aft aircraft bay where the planes can be lowered into the hangar deck. I have more details to add before it gets paint, but it already looks a lot better than the kit parts. Gold Medal Models aircraft / boat trolly tracks added really are a huge improvement as well.

[J. Soca]

Platings do bring the hull to life there is however, something missing here, hull would've looked exceptional with rivets showing. i know is not an easy task and now that you have painted it is out of the question.. tonite when i get home i wanna scan some pics to show you something. regardless of the rivets she still looks very impressive.


Jose

[sgtryan13]

Thanks Jose.

I agree that the rivet detail really would look good. Last week when I was at my local hobby store I was checking out a roller tool that has tiny teeth that I thought could be used, but it would make recessed rivet details so I decided against it. I am pushing the limits of my skills on this build, doing MANY techniques I have never tried before, and I was afraid to ruin the hull that I have put a lot of effort into so far. If this kit was not so expensive maybe i would be a little braver, but the $$$ invested so far is way more than I ever thought I would shell out on a model, and the effort I have put in and still need to do, like the planking, is just too much for me to take some of the risks on.

I am working on the aft steel deck areas at the moment, I hope to have the main deck attached later this week so I can continue with the deck planking. I think the superstructure is nearly complete, then it is on to all the AAA guns and more detail on the main and secondary batteries.

All in all, I think the build is moving along faster than I anticipated, who knows, maybe I will be able to finish by the fall sometime.

[Rob]

Dotting white glue on for the rivets may work. It's a technique armour modellers use.

Rob

[sgtryan13]

Hmmm... Sounds like an interesting possibility for the rivets, but holy cow, that would be a lot of dots with the white glue!!!! How would I try to keep them all in straight lines and uniform? I guess I could have traced the lines on in pencil before I painted and dotted the glue on.

I will have to keep this technique in mind for future builds, it sounds so simple it just may work!