The Ship Model Forum

G'Day everybody,

It's finally here, my Trumpy Hood and Pontos set is sitting on my workbench, I am going to make a start in the next few days, I'm still working on the lighting for the big Girl... , thanks to the hood sociacty, I've got a map of all the Bull head lights, and a co. In the US has a morse code signaling circuit board, so hopefully it won't be just a static model.

Keeping dust of the Model would be a challenge, but I've had the glass cut for the display case, don't want things to fall off when dusting occurs.

Cheers everybody.

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

Gongrats Big Build.
Very interesting, a map of all the Bull head lights.

Nothing new yet but here's a quick youtube vid of my progress so far:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dza4DkvLDGo

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-Jason Channell

Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck

Pontos 'Large Bitt' question. The instructions indicate to build 13 sets. There are 26 brass bitts #58 but I can only find ten etch Part 905. Has anyone found the other three parts 905?

Grizly

Look on photo etch sheet #18, the one with the big deck, as there are 3 more of the 905's for a total of 13.

Oops, it's actually sheet #17......which has a bunch of doors on it.

Lloyd

Too late. I made three out of 10 thou plastic card which are just fine.
Another question.... the bow capstan appears to be painted grey plus some other colours. Anybody know what they might be?

BBlover, it would appear that Pontos has revised their detail up set as I don't have the additional parts on my etch sheet #17. As mentioned above, not a great concern as the missing parts were fabricated out of plastic card. I have also encountered a few 'numbering' errors. For example, the 'cat head' component numbers are wrong. Nothing major and I suspect a revision to the instructions will eventually be posted on line. I also understand that an etch correction set will eventually be offered for those missing parts.

Upon request, at least: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=162889&start=440#p724787

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De quoi s'agit-il?

Well Jason, I've decided to take your lead, I'm going to fill the over exaggerated hull plates...

I'm reading a book by a survivor of the Bismarck...

Quite amazing the a German gunnery office would discribe the Hood as
"The mightyHood, whose elegant lines can be seen..."

So I'm going to have to make her elegant lines more real, of to my local hobby store (whom incidental I got my Trimpi Hood from) to buy a bucket load of filler.

The book BTW is "BATTLESHIP BISMARCK, A Survivors Story - by Baron Burkard Von Müllenheim-Rechberg" the author surved as adjutant to captain Lindemann...

Interesting read

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

has anyone seen model monkey's turrets? are they better than the kits?

I've been reading "The Battlecruiser HMS Hood" by Bruce Taylor off an on myself, it's really interesting to hear the stories of the guys who served on her over the years.

Best of luck with your plate mods... erasing the kit molded plates is harder than it sounds but is worth it in my opinion!

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-Jason Channell

Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck

Everything I've seen says the Trumpeter kit's turrets are fine shapewise and the Pontos set helps with the finer details. Apparently the ends of the rangefinder wings are wrong (they are from earlier in Hood's career) on the stock kit but Pontos addressed that too.

I haven't done much with my build lately but it's not for lack of enthusiasm... just too busy with other things! I have done a little bit of work on the forward superstructure such as squaring up the conning tower and starting to clean up the modded mess, however...





I plan on adding stryene bulkheads to the back of the area under the quad vickers; then I'll detail the area and put the gun platforms back on. I'm still trying to figure out what exactly goes under there, however. Hopefully it will be fun to go back and see these in-progress shots after it's all done!

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-Jason Channell

Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck

Well, I'm deep into the Pontos instructions now, and sorting out the incorrect port holes along with the over enthusiastic battle plates...

Regarding the portholes, the rain water gutters don't appear to be included in the Pontos kit, any idea where I could get replacements... I thought they might have been, but no where to be seen.

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

This may seem like jumping way ahead for some but.... Has anyone figured out a fool proof way of applying the Pontos wood veneer decking to the upper deck and have it correctly aligned? I've done the three main deck parts which have turrets and other features to keep everything aligned but this last art has me stumped.

Not sure what problem you are encountering. Have laid down the wood deck plus the steel and brass detailing
and all ended up a perfect fit. This maybe a stupid question, but have you removed ALL the detail on the kit part?.
(as per the Pontos instructions). There are several reference points such as the stair wells leading down to the shelter
deck, also the expansion joint. If you line up all those points it should form a perfect fit (as did mine). If anything else
comes to light with my own project will post, but your issue has ME stumped.

My concern rests with the fact that it is a large piece and once contact is made with the glued underside, there is literally no provision for fine adjustments in position. With the fore and aft decks this was not of concern since the turret mounts provided excellent keying points. There are no large vertical keying points for the last piece and am looking for tips on how to lay it down aligned on the first (and only) go.

Ah... I understand your problem...
Soap and water (not a lot mind) it let's you slid the decking around for while, but you've got to pres out the soap and water after

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

I can only relate my own experience with this particular "issue'. When i removed the backing from the deck to expose
the glued back, it developed a dome shape. This allowed me to align, as best as possible, the deck over all the key points.
I must say, at this point, the worst problem was to prevent the deck from sticking to my fingers!.Very carefully align as best as
you can without pressing down. be very careful and patient and when you are confident that all points align, press down
one corner. Lightly press down when you are sure all is OK, then start to press down hard. Worked well for me.
I do appreciate your anxiety as you only have one chance. Trust me, it worked for me. (Not sure about the soap and water, though).

Hi,
Regarding the soap and water method, I used this method on 3 1/600 airfix kits, I did however not believe this would work, so I took a test peace to a sheet on plastercard to try it out before ruining my kits, give it a go on a peace of plastercard first, so you are happy with the process, I will be using this method on my hood deck.

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

What I can reccomend for this issue is to use additional glue (as You can see in my Missouri build). Until the glue dries (which takes a couple of minutes) it makes deck possible to slide. It also provides You with solution to other issue which is weak deck glue adhesivness.

BTW: My 1/200 Hood is patiently waiting for his turn when I am watching Your progresses with great anticipation and anxiety!

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All the Best,
Wojtek

Completed Models:
HMS Dreadnought 1/350
USS Missouri 1/200

Work in progress:
U-Boat U-552 1/48
USS Arizona 1/200