I'm a firm believe in "an ounce of test-fitting prevents a pound of putty," if you will. As I was test fitting my deck pieces today I noticed a couple of areas where the hull edge had a gap, and that this cap would not close by pressing inwards with my fingers.

A quick investigation revealed that this was where Dragon had placed the bulkheads, and they made the hull just fractionally too wide (about .013" according to my thickness gauge) for a tight fit for about a third of an inch. It's certainly not bad, but it was more than I wanted to leave alone. So, in order to allow me to press these areas in, I took a photo-etched saw blade I'd bought some time back and laid it against the inside of the hull and cut down down as so:
Warning: I found some unintended consequences of this action and posted about it hereNo need to cut all the way down or through, just enough that you can press the upper edge inward to touch the edge of the deck pieces. I didn't have to do this to all of these stiffeners, just the middle four.
Lower to upper hull fit is good; very well done for the size and complexity of the two parts. My upper hull has a noticeable
hog to it, but not one that fights straitening out, just something that waterline builders should check for. I did notice some depressions on the lower hull fore and aft where the stiffeners inside create thicker areas of plastic. I've highlighted these below by airbrushing some black paint and then sanding with a fine sanding stick held flat against the hull:

I'll remove the paint and replace it with some Mr Surfacer and repeat the process. This was only on the fore and aft bulkheads; the two amidships within the area of the bilge keels had no effect on the outer surface.
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Tracy White -
Researcher@Large"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
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Barbara Tuchman