The Ship Model Forum

That are straight the words I thought too when seeing this here!

To be honest ...
I thought to make Richelieu but then saw Nicolas and his madness of super detailing and improvements, where it is more as hard to reach his result. I thought to make Hood and see your madness here to make Hood which will be unreachable for 99.9% of people if not doing the same madness too.
Absolutely fantastic work from A to Z!

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The advantage of wisdom is that you can play dumb; conversely, it is more difficult.

Thanks! Don't let other models stop you.

Christian
as told EJFoeth Don't let other models stop you, for me, is seeing the work the "heavyweights", EJFoeth including,that it makes me want to move forward
Cheers
Nicolas

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https://ladiagonaledubosco.blogspot.fr/

Not madness, genius.

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SI VIS PACEM,
PARA BELLUM

I'll go for that

The first paint exercise is done. I bought a small sub and added WEM 507B and oils. This was mainly to see how things would dry and attack each other (Thanks Werner dk for the tip!). So far so good. Still need to retain the blue of the WEM paint better, so back to the paint store to buy more oils! (No weathering was applied to the bottom part of the sub).

Paint test 2; obtaining AP507B after oils. Base coat Humbrol 145 Medium grey plus white (50/50) with accents in the base colour airbrushed in + clouds sprayed from a distance, finished with oils: Payne's Gray, White and bits of Ultramarine Green. Accents added with the base colours. Approaches the WEM tin nicely. Perhaps I'll try a blue instead of the green, add more white and add a dark wash for detailing later. Then I'll see where the colour ends up! There is a tiny bit of damage to the base coat as I didn't use the 6-hours waiting time for the Humbrol. The base layer could be a bit more pronounced for shading and lining in the detail...

Thanks for posting your work looking forward to seeing more... Incredible work your hands are gifted...

You're welcome and thank you Today I'm bored out of my skull so I'm building deck lockers and touching up the funnels...

AMAZING DETAIL! Wow. Great build.
Regarding primer: I've discovered that Krylon Matte finish sticks to both metal and plastic like crazy. It's the most bonding 'primer' base coat I've ever used. Plus it has a nice micro tooth which makes brush painting on top of it a dream. Airbrush colour goes on really well too. I also like that it is clear. The colour of the moulded plastic is often perfect.

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Every time the PE sticks to your tweezers, you lose a minute off your life.

Thanks!

I'm not firmly committed to using Humbrol; very thin, very resistant and very gray as I like it

I really like what you're doing here. The weathering is subtle and realistic... may have to blatantly try to copy the method.

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- Chris

1/700 Saratoga w/Pontos (Needs paint)
1/700 Potato w/Kurama (On hold)
1/700 Murdertorpedoboat Ooi

Wait with copying until I get the results I need. In the mean time: improvise

Completely outstanding work, I'm amazed with your work!!!

Could you explain how you made the rivets on the funnels?

Like so: http://ontheslipway.com/?p=1535

EJFoeth; Thank you for that link, you must have a patience level that is almost unheard of.The result is very impressive.

Parts are rolling off the painting line. I'm fairly happy with all the intermediate results and order of paints. It's a three-tone airbrushed scheme with the base color with bottom/top surfaces airbrushed in a darker/lighter tone. I made three jars premixed & diluted good for airbrushing without worrying about paint tone and consistency (have to stir properly though). You can dilute paints in the feeding cup but I've been unhappy with the change in consistency while airbrushing. I let the parts dry for at least 24 hours, no exceptions (anymore )

Then it's the artist oil's turn. The parts get a black pin wash and a white highlight when the wash is thoroughly dry. Next, I add shading and surface highlights with pure white and Payne's grey by adding spots of pure oils on the model and smearing it out it with a dry to damp flat brush. Afterwards some van Dyk brown is added to "key"" locations to simulate weathering and fouling. Perhaps I overdid that last stage a bit on this UP launcher but it is very small; this image is a brutal macro shot! I always apply the brush vertically for vertical surfaces, never horizontally.

All the surface detail really pops out without that glaring white halo of drybrushing. The depth of the colors is really nice but not as good as often seen with good figure painters. I've given up hope of reaching that level before Hood is done and this is a good exercise!

Jeepers!

Paint on Hood parts.... ?!!!

I suspect I shall see you at Telford in 2014...?

Good !!

-- now just don't over-obsess!


JIM B

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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

I'm not, I *am* painting. 2014. that's awfully close.

..what the.. !

EJ is painting!!! Time to come back with beer and pop-corns!

Dino

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http://lsa-space.blogspot.com/

Will you attend at Nieuwegein on saturday?

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If all else fails, a complete pig-headed refusal to see facts in the face will see us through. - General Melchett