The Ship Model Forum

This is my build of a 1/350 scale TAMIYA USS New Jersey converted into a what if post-1989 explosion reconstructed USS Iowa.
I'm trying to go for a possible 1992-1996 era timeframe. Only about 50% of the ship will be "technically believable".
The other 50% will be what if fantasy. So if something on the model doesn't make any sense, don't worry about it.
I'm just building "for fun" and my own enjoyment. Used Testor Acrylic Insignia Red for the bottom hull
and also Vallejo Model Air Color # 70.615 US Navy Light Ghost Gray for the upper hull side.
The Vallejo color will also be the primary gray color for a lot of the ship superstructures, guns, etc., etc.

More progress pics.

More progress.

Perhaps not a real consideration in the what if world, but the longitudinal trim of the ship would be a design factor as these ships bow trim was very load dependent. In light ship mode as in current museum configuration with empty magazines the bow draft is at least 10' less. Removal of a very heavy turret, barbettes and associated magazine (and contents) would be a serious issue. It's one of the reasons most missile ship conversions proposed have all the effort concentrated midships to aft. Despite surface appearance with the broad stern, these ships actually had minimal hull volume aft to allow smooth flow to allow the large power plant to achieve good efficiency.

Anyway have fun with your project!

Yep, I know all about trim, removing (or not removing) turrets, etc., etc.
But I'm not worried. This is a fantasy what if ship. It can be anything I want it to be.
If I wanted to, I could add a bowling alley to the aft flight deck area and nobody could do a damn thing about it.
My model, my choice on whatever I want it to be.

Anybody want me to add a bowling alley?

Two more pics for today.

Not only am I finding this what if entertaining, but I love the way you are captioning the pictures of the build. I wish more people would do that.

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Gabriel

Does anyone produce a set of weapons and fittings in 1/350, similar to the old Skywave sets in 1/700?

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https://inchhighguy.wordpress.com/

Thanks. The pictures may look "crowded" with all the text, red lines, and additional smaller pics,
but I actually find it easier to show and explain my progress this way than to show and explain things any other way.
I'm using Imgur image site. It allows a person to post the images in different sizes.
I chose the "Huge" format to make it easier for people to see everything that was going on and to read all the text.



In my last pic above, you can see that I'll be using CIWS from Veteran Models.
They make a whole assortment of ship accessories in 1/350 (and other) scale for US Navy, Japanese Navy, and WWII German navy fittings.
Try searching for them on the Freetime Hobbies website.

Suggestion - if you switch your Harpoon Launchers so that they fire athwartships, then you don't need the blast deflectors. Have a look at how the Royal Canadian Navy have their Harpoon launchers configured on the Halifax class ships - the back end of the launcher is pointed over the side, with the missiles firing across the top of the ship, so basically a missile from the port launcher is fired at targets to Starboard and vice versa.

Just an idea for you.

NS

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ICBM Address: 44:78N 063:63W

Ex RCN, HMC Ships Gatineau, Athabaskan, Charlottetown, St. John's, Montreal, Charlottetown, Summerside, Montreal.

Yeah, I thought about having them the other way that you suggest.
I've seen them that way in pictures of Spruance class destroyers.
But for some odd reason, I just didn't like the look of them facing inward like that.
The amidships blast deflectors are already glued in place
and I'll be adding/gluing in the amidships Harpoon launchers later this week.

Do you have any masts in the spares box that you could adapt?

If not, maybe add a couple of pole legs angled forward and put on a bigger platform?

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Darren (Admiral Hawk)
In the not so tropical climate of the Great White North.

I've got a very old Revell New Jersey kit, and I've got a 2nd TAMIYA New Jersey kit that I can rummage for parts.
I don't want to use the Revell kit if at all possible because of the flash on so many parts, and some parts are misshapen/oversized, etc.
But........if I have to dig into either kit, then I'll have to. We'll see how things go.

Ahoi EJM

my personal unbiased view...!
if you can strip tyhe decks -- remove the acrylic piant


dump the acrylic paint when brushing decks and use enamels for your decks

greater opacity even when thin coated, dries slower so can be worked and re-thinned if needed
and I find much less claggy when brushed than acrylics.

just a thought from confirmed enamel brush painter

GREAT works-- soooo much research and work

JB

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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
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